Post pictures of your most recent purchase

[2mAn]

have these on my car.


I like 'em

since when?!

[MrBurgundy]

since when?!

I think I've had them on for about a year now, same exact size too.


My advice is; stay ontop of tire rotations, especially if you're lowered and don't have camber correction in the back, because they will get camber wear pretty quickly

[Kershaw]

The pex was zip tied to the wire mesh. Insulation under concrete is definitely a must if you care about your electric bill. The slab is double insulated. First, the dirt underneath is insulated down to 18", 24" would have been ideal but I was tired of digging. So not only does the ground below the slab not freeze anymore, then second, the slab is then insulated from that dirt. The majority of heat loss comes from the edges, so I used 4/8 sheets of 1.5" thick rigid foam insulation. The notch on the far left of the garage in the rigid foam is for the trough for the lift. I went overkill here, I have about 11-12" of depth, 6" would have been more than enough. After that, I laid down 4' wide rolls of insulated vapor barrier. I didn't want issues with condensation under car tires or whatever. Keeping the water at 85 degrees keeps the slab about 70-72 and the air temp is about the same. Very comfortable. So far I have noticed about a $20/month increase in electric bill. Considering I was paying $20 for just a weekend in propane for a space heater, this is a massive improvement. Any time I walk in, it's warm and ready to go. The walls are insulated with 1.5" thick rigid foam and then covered that with 1/4" plywood. I also created a second pane for the clerestory window that runs the entire front of the garage. Since the outside pane is just corrugated plastic set in a c-channel, it let a lot of cold through. However, even this arrangement was still a net temp increase since the massive amount of sunlight that got through would keep the slab warm. I never saw it below +9 ambient temp in there. After creating the second pane from plexiglass, the passive heat increase is about +15 now. My friend and I cut the panes, predrilled, and then caulked them in place.






My next step (after I finish the driveway and the Syncro) is some sort of floor finish. I am leaning towards tiling it. There are lots of things I would have done just a bit better, spent a bit more time on getting it right, etc, but it has still been great.

[george graves]

Awesome. Nice shop - for sure.

I won't lie - I do love innovative solutions. I'm not knocking your build, but foam under concrete gives me pause. Not 5-10 year pause, but more like 30-50 year concerns. Whenever I'm talking to some guy, and they are like "Oh, no, this XYZ floor tile is guaranteed for 100 years!" I just think....yea, let's check back in 100 years. Cause I've been in houses that are 100 years old, and it's solid as a rock. I've been i houses that were built 2-3 years ago, and the contractor used some new-fangled sheet rock, and it's sagging.

[mrsleeve]

^
A lot of those issues come down to craftsmanship issues and proper technique. Most homes built in the last 20 years are not going to stand the test of time like the 1860s farm house I grew up in. Houses now are THROWN UP as fast as they can be, so they can turn the investment money around, and get the thing on the market before they get left holding the bag.

[Powling]

Awesome. Nice shop - for sure.

I won't lie - I do love innovative solutions. I'm not knocking your build, but foam under concrete gives me pause. Not 5-10 year pause, but more like 30-50 year concerns. Whenever I'm talking to some guy, and they are like "Oh, no, this XYZ floor tile is guaranteed for 100 years!" I just think....yea, let's check back in 100 years. Cause I've been in houses that are 100 years old, and it's solid as a rock. I've been i houses that were built 2-3 years ago, and the contractor used some new-fangled sheet rock, and it's sagging.

I always think this when I hear the year expectancy for roofing shingles. 30 year my ass, they barely last 7-8 years.

[rturbo 930]

^
A lot of those issues come down to craftsmanship issues and proper technique. Most homes built in the last 20 years are not going to stand the test of time like the 1860s farm house I grew up in. Houses now are THROWN UP as fast as they can be, so they can turn the investment money around, and get the thing on the market before they get left holding the bag.

That, and the fact that they are built using the cheapest materials available: plastic, and cheap new growth wood. It's amazing the difference in durability between old growth and new growth. The average home built today just isn't going to last like the old ones do.

I always think this when I hear the year expectancy for roofing shingles. 30 year my ass, they barely last 7-8 years.

7 years? Jesus. The shingles on my parents roof failed after roughly 30 years - rather, they were failing for several years before the roof was replaced, so maybe only 25, but they only really failed on the south side of the house. The new shingles are reinforced with fiberglass IIRC, which should have addressed the reason they failed previously, which is that they were breaking apart. I can't imagine what's going on that a roof is only lasting 7-8 years, but I would think that would be because of using the cheapest product available.

[mrsleeve]

You can build a house with new materials and building tech, that will last as long as the old world way, its JUST EXPENSIVE, on the order of 50 to 500 percent more expensive and are normally considered to be Luxury home construction, not meant to house us peasants and or be rental properties.

[Powling]

7 years? Jesus. The shingles on my parents roof failed after roughly 30 years - rather, they were failing for several years before the roof was replaced, so maybe only 25, but they only really failed on the south side of the house. The new shingles are reinforced with fiberglass IIRC, which should have addressed the reason they failed previously, which is that they were breaking apart. I can't imagine what's going on that a roof is only lasting 7-8 years, but I would think that would be because of using the cheapest product available.

Must be the climate and weather we get for the lack of longevity. But most houses in Ontario from my experience go through shingles in 10 year life spans. A lot of people are converting to steel roofs though because they are sick of dealing with replacing shingles so much.

[Joegreen02]

Hero 7 black with suction mount. Shenanigans well be had...




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[LateFan]

The pex was zip tied to the wire mesh. Insulation under concrete is definitely a must if you care about your electric bill. The slab is double insulated. First, the dirt underneath is insulated down to 18", 24" would have been ideal but I was tired of digging. So not only does the ground below the slab not freeze anymore, then second, the slab is then insulated from that dirt. The majority of heat loss comes from the edges, so I used 4/8 sheets of 1.5" thick rigid foam insulation. The notch on the far left of the garage in the rigid foam is for the trough for the lift. I went overkill here, I have about 11-12" of depth, 6" would have been more than enough. After that, I laid down 4' wide rolls of insulated vapor barrier. I didn't want issues with condensation under car tires or whatever. Keeping the water at 85 degrees keeps the slab about 70-72 and the air temp is about the same. Very comfortable. So far I have noticed about a $20/month increase in electric bill. Considering I was paying $20 for just a weekend in propane for a space heater, this is a massive improvement. Any time I walk in, it's warm and ready to go. The walls are insulated with 1.5" thick rigid foam and then covered that with 1/4" plywood. I also created a second pane for the clerestory window that runs the entire front of the garage. Since the outside pane is just corrugated plastic set in a c-channel, it let a lot of cold through. However, even this arrangement was still a net temp increase since the massive amount of sunlight that got through would keep the slab warm. I never saw it below +9 ambient temp in there. After creating the second pane from plexiglass, the passive heat increase is about +15 now. My friend and I cut the panes, predrilled, and then caulked them in place.

Nice work. The natural light will make that a great work space.

This is how it's done, boys. A well-insulated slab with gas-fired hydronic heat in a well-insulated building is very efficient. The mass of the slab holds a steady heat in the room.

One debate that always comes up with commercial slabs is pouring over gravel or pouring over plastic over gravel. The idea is you need a vapor (vapour CAN?) barrier. But the concrete cures as it air dries. The upper surface can dry, but on plastic the lower surface can't breathe into the coarse gravel. The top dries first and the slab cups and curls up. Not good if you need a nice flat shop floor or a "perfect" 1/8" in 10' slab for a wood basketball floor etc.

George - if you use the correct high density rigid insulation, there shouldn't be any compression or settling. The danger is always shrinkage and cracking, which is why you do control joints every x amount of feet both directions. You can use "fibermesh" or heavy wire reinforcement to hold it together, but it's still gonna crack.

One time I lifted a 20's garage with a dirt floor, poured a thickened edge slab, and set it back down with taller sistered studs. I used heavy rebar at 1' on center both ways, just to learn how to tie it and set it up. The concrete truck driver laughed - What are ya gonna park on this thing, a tank?!

Powling - I don't know what the heck is going on with shingles there. Is it the cold and ice damming? South exposure? Is there moss on them? No venting beneath the shingles? (This is a big one). A good quality modern fiberglass shingle should easily last 25 years. There are warranties to 35 and 50, but I think you just paid for the replacement cost in the extra cost of the shingle - I don't know that the product is any different.

I actually really like a standing seam metal roof - more dollars up front but it'll be there a long long time (if it's detailed right). There are some great raw finishes you can get on metal (not paint).

[mrsleeve]

^

I missed the southerner exposure part of that but I would tend to agree with the ice damming and causing a trapped moisture issue under the shingles in a situation like that. It took me a couple winters to figure out thats what was going with my house when we had water dripping out of the outside light fixture in the spring and warm winter days. This likely why they put a new roof on it just before we bought it, at about the 10 year old mark. Ice builds as the snow melt builds up over the covered porch to main house roof transition. I got it handled this year with some heat cables in the valley, NO more dripping out of the light fixture and who knows where we could not see.

If we are here long enough yes a metal roof will be the next roof material.

[rturbo 930]

You can build a house with new materials and building tech, that will last as long as the old world way, its JUST EXPENSIVE, on the order of 50 to 500 percent more expensive and are normally considered to be Luxury home construction, not meant to house us peasants and or be rental properties.

Yep, aside from availability of old growth wood, there's no reason why homes can't be built as well as they used to be. Might have a little trouble finding a plasterer, but they're still around. But yes, it will be a VERY high end home, and you'll pay for it. I think these cheaply built homes are more of an American thing. I'm following a build on garage journal right now in Switzerland, and the whole thing is poured concrete and brick. From what he says, that build quality is apparently more or less the standard there. And the build he's doing is probably over a million euros from what I can gather, granted its a bit different than a standard build.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348387

A good quality modern fiberglass shingle should easily last 25 years. There are warranties to 35 and 50.

I actually really like a standing seam metal roof - more dollars up front but it'll be there a long long time (if it's detailed right). There are some great raw finishes you can get on metal (not paint).

I think my parents new asphalt roof was guaranteed for 50.


My dad also put a new roof on his barn, and replaced the cedar roof with standing seam steel. Looks good, should last ages. There's a few homes in town here that have standing seam steel roofs in town here, and they've been there for YEARS, probably 50+. My parents used to own one of those buildings, although theirs had a few leaks that needed to be fixed. Probably less of a problem with modern paint tech that I would think will last longer.

[LateFan]

If you want to spend some real money and do it right, try copper shingles.......

[LateFan]

Or I actually prefer a copper standing seam. It will last forever....

I once used this on a curving roof - lot of fancy cutting and seaming!


We once designed a house for a guy on the salt water, and it had vertical copper standing seam wall panels, and white stucco. He realized it was going to take a lifetime to turn green, so he went up on a ladder himself and steel-wooled his entire house to get it shiny again. Then he bought a bunch of that acid wash patina stuff and coated it. Pretty funny.



Or zinc! I love zinc.