Dumb question on pipe fittings....(Update Qs)

[slammin.e28]

its not a really high pressure part, where your looking a critical metallurgy and stress factors where you might need to run a couple of different welding processes to make an acceptable weld.

If you prep the joint with a little bevel correctly clean it up well and are decent with a GMAW, MIG machine you should be more than fine

Good, that's what I wanted to hear. I'm pretty good with a MIG. I'd rather TIG though, but we're calling for weather tomorrow. Otherwise I'd mount and tack with MIG, then bring it to work a do some nice TIGGING.

[mrsleeve]

its not a really high pressure part, where your looking at critical metallurgy and stress factors and running close to the max tensile strength of the metal, where you might need to run a couple of different welding processes to make an acceptable weld.

If you prep the joint with a little bevel correctly clean it up well and are decent with a GMAW, MIG machine you should be more than fine. If your using Aluminum on the other had, I would TIG it, because GMAW on AL. is tricky and a PIA even with the right equipment



If your going to GMAW this at home I would sugest you set something up where your welding a 1G postion and roll out the part so your not having to move the stinger too much. Be careful on this thin shit to not blow a big hole in it,

[slammin.e28]

Bumpy.

So, I haven't had time to get hoses made, and apparently we are due for some snows this week. I think I may just take some extra hard line, gleaned from parts e28s, and TIG myself a line that clears the engine oil pan and runs along the frame. Or, to keep this at home, would a MIG work fine? I'd have to TIG at work if I did it, thus having to go back and forth since the Rover is at home.

Thoughts?

[slammin.e28]

Found out, through the run around I mentioned above, that there is a place about 20 mins north of me that is a Parker dealer.

http://www.ferebee-johnson.com/index.html

So, I'll be going there sometime next week....

let the run around continue.

[Smelser]

I always used my flare tool to put a small flare on the end.

Then slide hose over, clamp, and be done with it.

this has worked on our fuel lines running over 60psi.

you don't use the dyes. just the main large piece and the clamp unit. use it to put a small "bell mouth" in the end of the tube. it offers some resitence for the clamp to bit against so it doesn't just slide off.

but don't go too much, or you wont get the hose on!

[JGood]

Had a similar dilemma, I moved an oil filter housing to a remote location, so I had to cut the factory hoses, which were ~6" of hard pipe with a rubber hose crimped on to it. I had a shop braze AN fittings on the pipes for $10 and ran AN hoses/fittings.

I've messed with AN stuff a lot lately. I've tried everything from ebay no-name stuff to Aeroquip. I currently have two nearly identical AN hoses on my car, one put together with ebay stuff for $20, the other is a full Aeroquip setup that a shop put together for me, which cost $100. The Aeroquip hose is leaking. YMMV, but I'd recommend just using the cheap stuff.

[10Toes]

Not sure what size you need but why not just weld something like this to the end

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=880087

[einhander]

Open wider.

[slammin.e28]

Hmm....I wish we had those stores here. Here we have to hear from word of mouth to go to the tractor hose place then they'll send you to the guy who does hoses for dump trucks and before you know it you're in some shack outside of a farm town with Cletus telling you he's never seen anything like this.

I did happen to notice, while picking up some heads from the local machine shop, there was a sign above a back door that said "Hydraulic hoses". Unfortunately the guy that does them left at noon yesterday.

Also I hate paying someone to do something I can do. :/ May just break down and open the wallet as there is a call for snow in the Valley next week.

Otherwise, back to square 1.

The flaring tool I borrowed from work wouldn't flare these enough, I guess because they're so thick. It wasn't one of the $350 ones you just put the pipe in and squeeze the lever, it had the dies, and bars, and what not. I tried that the first time I repaired it. Not much luck and I needed the truck that morning.

Thus, it looks like the wall is thick enough to thread and just make some hose as seen above.

Goddamn engine swaps screw everything up.

[Exodus_2pt0]

I always used my flare tool to put a small flare on the end.

Then slide hose over, clamp, and be done with it.

[FredK]

Yeah, the issue is definitely the lack of a bead or flare. Even the smallest amount of swaging will prevent this from happening again.

Try to find a hose repair shop with a tube beading tool. They should be able to roll a bead for not much money, and you can remove the hose easily.

Here's a tubing beading tool:

http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/item/tubing-aircraft-tools/tube-beading-kit/ap145?

[mrsleeve]

Here I shall help if it was me and left with no recourse I would thread the end of what you have and go from there. But 1st I would go to these people and tell them what I was doing ad give them mesuremets and termination fitting specs, then return 30mis latter and retrive my new hoses

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.e9f8726d34453d3680684c0a8320d1ca/?vgnextoid=acfa8e11f1b95110VgnVCM1000006d00d40aRCRD&vgnextfmt=default

[monticello]

I don't know Rovers, but i'm figuring that the original equipment was all tubing and no pipe. Get rid of the pipe. Compression fittings should do the job. Just sliding hose over tubing without a swage or flare will give you the same problem.

[slammin.e28]

Is the cooler line tubing that someone cut, then repaired with pipe? With rubber hoses that just slide over and hose clamped?

Basically, the oil pan of the M52 interferes with the trans cooler lines because Rover put like 52 bends in the lines.

So, to clear the pan, two bends were cut out, and a rubber hose was put over the pipe to connect them, with hose clamps at first, then I double oetiker clamped it when I repaired it the first time.

It lasted about a year, just under.

So I want something that threads on. Was going to use mid 90s Mercedes AT cooling hose (about 10" long, straight, with a coil around it and ball flares on each end), but it's too small diameter to fit the Rover pipe, especially if I flare the Rover pipe. Also I can't find any ends that will thread into the MB line that I can braze onto the Rover pipe.

[monticello]

Is the cooler line tubing that someone cut, then repaired with pipe? With rubber hoses that just slide over and hose clamped?