New to E30 and track events.

[VinniE30]

Nope, ran aluminum motor and tranny mounts all last year. The 6cyl drivetrain is so smooth there really isn't any appreciable vibration, only times I got any sort of shake was when the engine was cold and didn't like the cam. I could see the tranny tabs breaking if the tranny mounts were stiffer than the engine mounts and were forced to take more of the load but otherwise the bulk of the rotational force should be taken by the engine mounts.

Thanks for the input. By the way, I have an M30, but I don't see why the M30 would be any "less smooth" than the M20.

[SkinnyVT]

With poly transmission bushings will you be at a greater risk for breaking the transmission tabs? I've heard of them breaking with even the stock bushings. So I would think the poly bushing would be even harder on them. Do you guys ever worry about other things breaking or coming loose with poly bushings? since theres much more vibration and stress on everything..

Nope, ran aluminum motor and tranny mounts all last year. The 6cyl drivetrain is so smooth there really isn't any appreciable vibration, only times I got any sort of shake was when the engine was cold and didn't like the cam. I could see the tranny tabs breaking if the tranny mounts were stiffer than the engine mounts and were forced to take more of the load but otherwise the bulk of the rotational force should be taken by the engine mounts.

[VinniE30]

With poly transmission bushings will you be at a greater risk for breaking the transmission tabs? I've heard of them breaking with even the stock bushings. So I would think the poly bushing would be even harder on them. Do you guys ever worry about other things breaking or coming loose with poly bushings? since theres much more vibration and stress on everything..

[Toadleg]

Yep, and while the subframe is out install weld-in camber/toe adjusters. The new ones from IE look like they will work well and hold their settings.

I just installed the ie weld-in camber/toe adjusters its a good idea for a lowered car and seems to lock in well, but I have not track tested it yet. I also did the TA bushings since I had it apart.

[sonej4]

Thanks for the well thought out and informative responses.

I was leaning towards the stiff poly bushings.

I only have a few things left to be ready. I am planning to remove the sunroof and skin it when I feel up to it.

sorry for typos, from phone
E30, FA5

[Emre]

Many things have happened since my last post. I still have the e30, but was diagnosed with Leukemia a little over a year ago. I am now in remission, but still taking oral chemo.

Sorry to hear that. Glad you're feeling better.

What is the best subframe bushings and diff mount for track only?

Personally, I would stay away from solid aluminum unless the car is 100% track/race and will be trailered to events.

Get urethane bushings (from AKG, Ireland Engineering, etc.) for the engine, transmission, diff, rear subframe, and rear shock mount. They feel great on the track and they won't beat your car up too badly.

Thanks. I was planning on running my street tires the first few times. Falken Azenis 615k

I haven't run the new "K" compound, but I have lots of experience with the older compound in the Azenis RT-615 and Azenis Sport RT-215. The old ones gripped very well in the dry once the tread had been shaved/worn down a bit. Full tread, they were very squirmy. But even when shaved, they would get greasy after about 15 minutes of hard use. They'd feel great for a while and then (with no warning) all grip would suddenly be gone.

I've heard that the RT-615K compound is stickier than the original compound and that the tires are now molded with less treat depth. Sounds great! However, in the shoot-out conducted by Grassroots Motorsports magazine a few months back, they said the RT-615K still gets greasy after a few minutes on the track and never really recovers until the tires cool completely. In other words, it might be good for auto-cross or a time-trial, but it's probably not ideal for open track.

I think the Azenis was a fantastic tire for casual track/HPDE use around 10 years ago. When it was introduced, there was no street tire that performed better on the track...especially at such a low price. But these days, you've got a number of low-cost summer tires that will perform better: the Hankook R-S3, Kumho Ecsta XS, and Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec are all excellent choices.

The guys at GRM seem to favor the Hankook R-S3 as the best all-around summer tire for mixed street/track and dry/wet use.

[jlevie]

Sorry. Found them. I am guessing the aluminum ones need to be pressed in and therefore I should remove the subframe.

Yep, and while the subframe is out install weld-in camber/toe adjusters. The new ones from IE look like they will work well and hold their settings.

[sonej4]

For a track only car, AKG aluminum subframe and differential bushings.

Sorry. Found them. I am guessing the aluminum ones need to be pressed in and therefore I should remove the subframe.

sorry for typos, from phone
E30, FA5

[sonej4]

V710 aren't track tires, they are ideal for autocross use otherwise you risk them overheating on a track.,

Thanks. I was planning on running my street tires the first few times. Falken Azenis 615k

sorry for typos, from phone
E30, FA5

[Jean]

V710 aren't track tires, they are ideal for autocross use otherwise you risk them overheating on a track.,

[sonej4]

For a track only car, AKG aluminum subframe and differential bushings.

Best place to purchase? I had looked at the ones from Turner.

sorry for typos, from phone
E30, FA5

[jlevie]

For a track only car, AKG aluminum subframe and differential bushings.

[sonej4]

Many things have happened since my last post. I still have the e30, but was diagnosed with Leukemia a little over a year ago. I am now in remission, but still taking oral chemo. I havent made a track event yet and need to replace the rear subframe bushings first.

What is the best subframe bushings and diff mount for track only?

sorry for typos, from phone
E30, FA5

[sonej4]

forget brake ducts. Cut/Remove the dust shield off. That'll give it enough cooling for what you have.. NOW, personal experience, stock brakes did not hold up to Sebring on a stock motor back when i was starting to DE. Turns out it was my brake technique (dragging too much) that baked brakes. I do recommend atleast upgrade the brake fluid. Pads are cheap (ish) and hawk blues are very good. I use them with my s52.

Drive it to events 100%. I drive my car from s.FL to GA a few times a year for two day events and back, 460mi each way! Once your car is extensively modified and official frankeninteined out, trailer it. For now, enjoy your comfy seats, AC, radio and comfi(ish) suspension.

seems like you've done your research and have a good starting base. Toe front and rear i would set for 0 though.

from there i'd say just track it and improve where you feel needed. You'll find its much more affordable to track as is. Just maintain the m20 and save modification money for event entries. Believe me! its a lot more fun to track than work on your car and think about how much fun you could be having at the track. GOOD LUCK maybe i'll see you in GA soon. I track with PCA all the time up there (i'm actually a pca member but shhhh don't tell anyone here)

Yeah no prob. I was going try and make Roebling Road, but have something else that weekend. Maybe I should share the current mods and a few pics.

-M20 stock-completed some maint(new timing belt/tensioner, new water pump, cam seal and o-ring, crank and intermediate seal, adjusted valves, new valve cover gasket, new plugs, electric fan conversion, and a general cleaning check of everything else)
-A/C has already been removed by PO
-Brakes-i rebuilt the calipers(Girling fronts) and put Axxis Ultimates for the street. SS lines, Super blue fluid, front brake ducts
Tires-Falken 516ks for the street, Advans and v710s for the track. The two extras came with the car. The car had 3 sets when I bought it, but one of the r comps was dry rotted
-Gauges-Water and oil temp, oil pressure, volts
-Corbeau Seats/harnesses
-Roll bar-Autopower race roll bar
-Suspension-Looks like the PO bought the NASA spec e30 suspension kit from Turner

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=SPECE30SK

Interior-stripped with the exception of the upper dash and heater. Had to replace the gas pedal and bought an extra brake switch.
-UUC short shifter/race shifter, I am not sure which one. Momo shift knob
-Momo steering wheel

I can't think of anything right now. If there is anything I need to make sure and check LMK. I know the rear subframe bushings and diff mount need to be checked.

[etxxz]

forget brake ducts. Cut/Remove the dust shield off. That'll give it enough cooling for what you have.. NOW, personal experience, stock brakes did not hold up to Sebring on a stock motor back when i was starting to DE. Turns out it was my brake technique (dragging too much) that baked brakes. I do recommend atleast upgrade the brake fluid. Pads are cheap (ish) and hawk blues are very good. I use them with my s52.

Drive it to events 100%. I drive my car from s.FL to GA a few times a year for two day events and back, 460mi each way! Once your car is extensively modified and official frankeninteined out, trailer it. For now, enjoy your comfy seats, AC, radio and comfi(ish) suspension.

seems like you've done your research and have a good starting base. Toe front and rear i would set for 0 though.

from there i'd say just track it and improve where you feel needed. You'll find its much more affordable to track as is. Just maintain the m20 and save modification money for event entries. Believe me! its a lot more fun to track than work on your car and think about how much fun you could be having at the track. GOOD LUCK maybe i'll see you in GA soon. I track with PCA all the time up there (i'm actually a pca member but shhhh don't tell anyone here)