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True. Perhaps I'll do the full X then. My car rarely has passengers whether I'm on track or on the street, but it does happen -
Just remember with that setup it is aimed at single passenger vehicles. The person in the right seat doesn't have nearly the same safety.Leave a comment:
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In 15.6 of the NASA pdf, that's the exact design I had in mind for my main hoop. One half of the 'X' (running from driver side top to pass. side bottom and a cross bar for harnesses.Leave a comment:
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You can still drive a caged car on the street, you just need to have it properly installed relative to your seat or wear a helmet. I have seen a couple caged rally cars I would daily without a helmet.
If you decide to put in a full cage you need to cut holes in the floor to drop the cage down and weld everything completely. I had to weld up 3 rally cars in WRC Mexico because of poor installs.Leave a comment:
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If you click on one of my build threads you will see what I did in mine.
Here's a link to the NASA rules about roll cages. SCCA follows the same thing. The diameter is based on the weight of your car. See section 15.6
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf
On my pics, I dont have the front bar in because I was still fitting the dash, I also dont have the rear bar behind the seats yet because of the seat belt position. I do now, just no pics yet. What you can do is build a small box of metal at the base of each side it to weld to and bend the hoop and weld it in. I have the rear supports run from the rear towers up to the top of the main hoop. If you go to Bimmerforums and go to track car builds you will see a lot of cages much better than mine. It may give you some ideas, good luck!Leave a comment:
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Yes, research is good. I shopped around for almost a year before I found the right person with the right setup and knew exactly what I was looking for. I predict fun times in your future.Leave a comment:
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Thanks for those pics, I'm really digging your back half. Thanks for the tip on more pics too and I'm going to have fun with it, just wanting to do plenty of research instead of jumping in and seeing what happensLeave a comment:
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Here's my cage built in my E30. It's built to Rally America specs (with a dash bar too), but it gives you an idea what the main hoop looks like and the harness bar, which attaches behind the main X.
My rear bars go through the rear seat back and attach to the rear strut towers, which were reinforced, but you might be able to find a way around that.
Bill Doyle of cagethis.com did my cage. Awesome work. His site has plenty of cage designs and more close-up pics of E30s and E36s, among many others if you need them for reference.
That's PsyberOptix back there toiling over my fuel pump.
Either way, good luck and have fun with the build!Attached FilesLeave a comment:
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Yeah, I'm trying to be realistic here. Even if I wanna drive wheel to wheel down the road, it'll probably be in a chassis that's got a decent local following, and if I can AFFORD it... a main hoop back and running for fun / TT would be sufficient for a while. Full cage = trailer and tow which I also don't have.Leave a comment:
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If that's what he wants to do, great... I don't see any need for it for him, nor do I see any need for it for myself... Who knows if in 5 years I'll even want to do wheel to wheel.... If I can weld in a main hoop and back and run Time Trials and have a fun time, I'll do it... If i wanted to do some wheel to wheel, I'd pick something that there's an actual LOCAL scene for like spec miata or spec 944... AFAIK there's only 2 Spec e30s in our area...Leave a comment:
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I don't see an issue with a weld in 4-pt... MIGHT the car MAYBE get a full cage down the road? Sure, if that happens, I have no problem cutting out the old one, re-using what I can and making a new cage, if that's absolutely necessary... BUT, I think a weld in bar will be fine for a few years / seasons. So... say, 5 season with a bolt in bar, that'd be peachy. Then, if I want and can afford to do club racing or something, I'll cut out the old and do a full cage.
I was thinking of copying yours, but weld in... And I thought about calling Grant, but then I'm not sure if that's cool or not... Like "Hey, I need some tips regarding what you do for a living so I can apply it to my own project and not pay you." lolLeave a comment:
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Ben, don't do a weld-in roll bar unless you want to cut the roof off if you ever want to add to it. Weld yourself a bolt-in bar, or buy one, because a well-fitting weld-in half cage can't be added to down the line without cutting and rewelding the roof on. Same reason Clark's welding up a custom bolt-in bar for his E36, the same issue applies. Only other way around it is to scrap the original welded-in bar when doing a full cage, which seems dumb to me.
I'd either weld a full cage in, or weld up a bolt-in temp bar. Use mine as a guide.
Whatever you do, call Grant at SCR, he'd know if there's any way around the issue above.Leave a comment:
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Alright. Thanks a ton kenny for your input, we'll see if anyone else has input and I'll do some more searching for pics installed in e30sLeave a comment:
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