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Help with some "track" modifications

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  • kingston
    replied
    Originally posted by irish44j View Post
    I got my manual windows from the UK, FWIW. Easier to find them in English :) I have a 4-door, and I got a full set for about $100 + shipping..
    That's about what my set cost, too. And they're arriving on Friday :)

    Leave a comment:


  • SA E30
    replied
    You will find that when you go to town on your dash and relocating or changing switches that the standard harness is a massive rats nest.

    I say if you have some time pull the entire harness, mount it inside the cabin (as you did say you were planning on caging the car) and plug in the plugs you need, and strip all the extra wiring out.

    Unless you get fedup like I did and ditched the entire lot, and rewired with simpler circuits and less interlinked circuits. Figure it will be easier to trouble shoot in the future.

    Leave a comment:


  • irish44j
    replied
    Originally posted by kingston View Post
    Bumping an old thread. I realize that the OP has probably already moved past these issues, but maybe other people will see this at some point. I'm doing a manual window conversion for my track car. Manual window parts are all still available new, although they will likely have to sip from Germany. .
    I got my manual windows from the UK, FWIW. Easier to find them in English :) I have a 4-door, and I got a full set for about $100 + shipping..

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by CPP View Post
    My E36 is gutted, but just has a 4-point bar. I installed a dead pedal from a mustang (don't remember what year - just search eBay for "Mustang dead pedal"). It just attaches to the side kick panel, and works like a charm. I originally used the sheet metal screws that came with it, but they've started to loosen a bit. I plan to replace them with nuts/bolts, as I can access the back side through the speaker hole. I just glanced at my E30, and looks like he same set up would work well if you don't have a cage. Mine has a full cage with foot bars, so no room for a dead pedal and my size 12s.
    Cliff
    I'll take a look at those. Thank you!

    Leave a comment:


  • CPP
    replied
    My E36 is gutted, but just has a 4-point bar. I installed a dead pedal from a mustang (don't remember what year - just search eBay for "Mustang dead pedal"). It just attaches to the side kick panel, and works like a charm. I originally used the sheet metal screws that came with it, but they've started to loosen a bit. I plan to replace them with nuts/bolts, as I can access the back side through the speaker hole. I just glanced at my E30, and looks like he same set up would work well if you don't have a cage. Mine has a full cage with foot bars, so no room for a dead pedal and my size 12s.
    Cliff

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Because I rally-x the car, dust and dirt are also a concern. I never did make a dead pedal, and my dash modification is on hold.

    My build thread is in my signature, if you want to see where the car has gone in the last year(-ish).

    Leave a comment:


  • kingston
    replied
    phenryiv1, what issues remain unresolved? We have kept the windshield wiper stalk stock on our car. I would imagine, (although I have not done it), that it wouldn't be too hard to set up a toggle switch on the dash. I'd probably just do an on-off switch if possible. If you're using Rain-X on the windshield, it will probably handle most situations, so I'd probably try to set them up to run on only the highest setting. Maybe you could have a 3-position toggle switch with off-low speed-high speed selections.

    Leave a comment:


  • kingston
    replied
    Originally posted by djjerme View Post
    That is not the only thing you need to worry about, I have seen put their car slideways in to enough stationary objects in Autox as well as HPDE. In fact, seen that more than being T-boned.

    That being said, I do have X-braces in my own racecar just because I didn't want the Nascar bars at the time.

    I fabbed my own dead pedal using a section of steel tread plate and an exhaust clamp. It's attached to the bars going to the firewall. Works great on those long stretches and when you are sitting in pit/staging. Not sure if I have pix of it handy, though I doubt anyone would want to see it, since it's not the prettiest setup.
    Thank you for the feedback. I still have a fairly limited amount of experience on track, and that is food for thought. We have NASCAR bars in the Chump Car, and it's such a PITA that I really don't want to deal with it, but I realize that this is a calculated risk.

    And I would like to see your dead pedal setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by kingston View Post
    Bumping an old thread. I realize that the OP has probably already moved past these issues, but maybe other people will see this at some point.
    Actually, some of my original issues remain unresolved.

    Leave a comment:


  • djjerme
    replied
    since I'm doing AutoX and DEs, I'm less concerned about being T-Boned.
    That is not the only thing you need to worry about, I have seen put their car slideways in to enough stationary objects in Autox as well as HPDE. In fact, seen that more than being T-boned.

    That being said, I do have X-braces in my own racecar just because I didn't want the Nascar bars at the time.

    I fabbed my own dead pedal using a section of steel tread plate and an exhaust clamp. It's attached to the bars going to the firewall. Works great on those long stretches and when you are sitting in pit/staging. Not sure if I have pix of it handy, though I doubt anyone would want to see it, since it's not the prettiest setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • kingston
    replied
    Bumping an old thread. I realize that the OP has probably already moved past these issues, but maybe other people will see this at some point. I'm doing a manual window conversion for my track car. Manual window parts are all still available new, although they will likely have to sip from Germany. When I do the cage, it will have X-Bars, not NASCAR bars. It's a track toy, not a race car, and while I do understand very well JLevie's point, since I'm doing AutoX and DEs, I'm less concerned about being T-Boned.

    Massive also sells DTM-styled gauge panels so you can use aftermarket gauges. That's what I'm doing.

    I definitely want a dead pedal. We don't have one in our Chump E30, and it makes me crazy.

    I'm pulling all the central locking stuff, including the trunk lock actuator and the gas cap locking mechanism. The simpler the better.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by kts View Post
    Massive makes a very nice looking footrest.

    http://www.massivebrakes.com/accessories.php?p=Footrest
    I like that. Thank you!

    Leave a comment:


  • kts
    replied
    Massive makes a very nice looking footrest.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by irish44j View Post
    last event this year was late November, plus the one up in PA in December ;)


    for the dash lights, if you dont' remove the bulbs/cluster:
    - the brake pad warning light you can just (IIRC) twist the two wires for the pad sensor together, and it turns the light off. That's what I did.

    I like the idea someone else posted of the shortened stalks. That may be next week's project for me :)
    I am already working on the shortened stalks. Brilliant idea.

    Leave a comment:


  • irish44j
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1 View Post
    the racing is primarily March-October.
    last event this year was late November, plus the one up in PA in December ;)


    for the dash lights, if you dont' remove the bulbs/cluster:
    - the brake pad warning light you can just (IIRC) twist the two wires for the pad sensor together, and it turns the light off. That's what I did.

    I like the idea someone else posted of the shortened stalks. That may be next week's project for me :)

    Leave a comment:

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