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Full Alignment / Corner Balance setup advice / and pics of the new car!

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    Full Alignment / Corner Balance setup advice / and pics of the new car!

    Hey guys,

    I know this has been addressed in the past but i'm taking the new race car into TKX in LI to get a full alignment and corner balance for the first time since we built it.

    Suspension Specs -
    Motion Control Two Ways / Offset cabs / Solid bushings all around / IE front sway / No rear sway/ AKG rear camber/toe adjust / Vorshalg Camber plates.

    Wheels 17x8 with NT01 since i still have some HPDE's to do next year to get back studying.

    Car has an s52 with full cage, no interior.

    My buddy that helped with the build races IP (e36) and told me his specs are -

    3/4 - 1" rake f-r
    Neg Cam 3.5f / 2.5r
    1/8" toe out F / 1/8" toe in R

    He was suggesting 50-52% rear weight. cross 50/50

    Thanks for any input!

    Just wrapping up fire suppression.










    sigpic
    1991 318is S52
    1987 325i Vert
    1991 325i
    2011 e70 X5

    Need Anything E30? -> http://www.gutenparts.com/

    #2
    His suggestions are about right, I wanted less rake in our car but on the low side of that is about where we ended up. I am 1/8" toe in the rear, but significantly less in the front and our car is about as free as I would want it to be on entry but very neutral on throttle. I can't remember what rates are on the car right now but it's something like 750/450 (true coilover), with Racing dynamics bars on full stiff F and full soft R.

    What springs are you running?
    - '88 m54 coupe

    <3

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks!

      current spring rates are 600/750 (normal rear)
      sigpic
      1991 318is S52
      1987 325i Vert
      1991 325i
      2011 e70 X5

      Need Anything E30? -> http://www.gutenparts.com/

      Comment


        #4
        I have not run without a rear bar, but like Jb I've been dialing out rake on my car and I am liking it better. That also sounds like too much toe. I was running 0 toe in the front, and my last alignment moved to 0.04" toe in. The car is feeling better with a little toe in. The rest sounds good.

        Comment


          #5
          1/8" toe out F / 1/8" toe in R
          That looks like a quick- turning car. I run about 0 toe in the front, about that in back.

          I started at 0 rake, and have been adding it in 3/16" spring shims. Which is about
          5/16" increments at the wheel. I'm at 4 shims right now, and may take one out....

          t
          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

          Comment


            #6
            with the factory steering rack I like to run a lot of toe out. My car is primarily used for autocross, so I like it quite twitchy. I am at 2 degrees of total toe out up front.
            '84 318i M10B18 | 93whp/90ftlbs | 147- Safari Beige | MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step

            Comment


              #7
              Spring rates: 700/900 and ditch the rear sway bar. My cars weighs 2470 with driver and 50/50 cross weight balance. Handling is perfect, I have the same MCS shocks you have.

              Comment


                #8
                I took my car to an alignment shop and they said they would not be able to give more neg camber in the front due to it being "maxed-out" already. How do you all achieve -3.5 in the front?

                My rear end is a different story. I am toe'd out at the passenger side rear (a lot) - shop says they "can't get to the trailing arm bolt". So I need to drop the rear subframe, bang the chassis underbody out a bit, and cut the subframe bushing to get more access to the toe eccentric bolt.

                I am on GC coilovers, 600F/800R, IE 22m sway front, stock sway rear, 5 lug conversion, GC camber plates, eccentric bolts in the rear with z3 reinforced subframe and trailing arms.

                Comment


                  #9
                  IE offers +1.25* strut bending service that isn't listed on their site I think, but you can always call.

                  edit: nvm, they do advertise it. Up to +1.5*
                  http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02strutc1.html
                  Last edited by ak-; 11-26-2018, 09:38 PM.

                  1991 325iS turbo

                  Comment


                    #10
                    How much did you get out of the front? With coilovers you should be able to get 3.5 in front without bending the struts. Did you try moving the camber plate bolts into a different set of holes?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I've never had trouble getting over 4* using GC plates with 2.5" springs. I think we're running ~4.3 or so now in the front
                      - '88 m54 coupe

                      <3

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
                        How much did you get out of the front? With coilovers you should be able to get 3.5 in front without bending the struts. Did you try moving the camber plate bolts into a different set of holes?
                        I have not played much with the camber plates to be honest. I was hoping the shop would do that (correctly hopefully).

                        Originally posted by Jb325is View Post
                        I've never had trouble getting over 4* using GC plates with 2.5" springs. I think we're running ~4.3 or so now in the front
                        Seriously? How? I know I am going to add 2mm shims to the front short bolts connecting the strut to the spindle. I know that will give me some camber - I am hoping the shop can get me at least 3 deg with that. I am at -1 deg in the fronts right now and he says I am "maxed out".

                        Comment


                          #13
                          There is something wrong then. I have over 2* front camber on stock diameter springs! Backed off just enough that the spring perches don't bind on the strut towers. GC plates typically have multiple sets of holes for the camber bolts, it sounds to me like you just need to move the bolts (or there is some other issue being missed).

                          Comment


                            #14
                            So it's E36 5 lug on the front?
                            - '88 m54 coupe

                            <3

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Ill double check on the bolt locations to see if I can increase the camber. And yes... GC e36 coilovers on the front (Ground Control's "Bastard" kit - all 96+ components, control arms, AKG offset bushings).

                              And what did you do for the rear to simplify access to the eccentric bolts? I had a BMW specific shop tell me that they would have to drop the subframe, cut the subframe bushing, and bash the underbody to gain more space to the rear toe bolt. I told them that I would drive it home and do that myself. Is this what you all had to do for the rear?

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