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Melon's Autocross Thread

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  • Albie325
    replied
    Man, the exhaust sounds mean! Glad to see you out enjoying the car

    Leave a comment:


  • Melon
    replied
    Friend of mine captured some great videos of the car.





    I installed the adjustable IE links before the event.
    Set the front bar to full stiff, and left the rear on soft, it really helped the rear stay planted under heavy throttle and breaking, it can still rotate, but is much more planted.
    Ran higher pressures in the tires too. 36 front, 34 rear, I'll keep playing around with this, but they did better than at 30psi.

    Most importantly I began to get more comfortable with pushing the car, and really dropped time by being much more aggressive with my inputs.

    Fast times were low 43s, FTD was 42.5s I was running mid 45's

    Leave a comment:


  • Melon
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    What was the braking issue?
    Not enough bias to the rear.

    Removed prop valve, installed Wilwood valve, with proportioning set to 0.
    Fixed.

    Leave a comment:


  • moatilliatta
    replied
    What was the braking issue?

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    Yeah... more mods is rarely the answer.

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  • Melon
    replied
    Originally posted by Shangsta View Post

    I would recomend doing more autocrosses with the current setup. Dont take this the wrong way but it sounds like you are trying to compensate time with new parts. Learn to compensate for the cars issues now and after a lot more seat time you can go to a new setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shangsta
    replied
    Originally posted by Melon View Post

    I've changed that up since I first made the thread, so that's fair.
    I'm fine with the braking and rotation now.

    ​​​​​​Looking at different suspension options now. Really didn't want to buy more parts, but I think there's better options out there.
    I would recomend doing more autocrosses with the current setup. Dont take this the wrong way but it sounds like you are trying to compensate time with new parts. Learn to compensate for the cars issues now and after a lot more seat time you can go to a new setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • Melon
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    Woops, I corrected, I seen you mention it in OP..

    I updated and mentioned to try more aggressive rear pad.
    I've changed that up since I first made the thread, so that's fair.
    I'm fine with the braking and rotation now.

    ​​​​​​Looking at different suspension options now. Really didn't want to buy more parts, but I think there's better options out there.

    Leave a comment:


  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Woops, I corrected, I seen you mention it in OP..

    I updated and mentioned to try more aggressive rear pad.

    Leave a comment:


  • Melon
    replied
    Originally posted by cwlo View Post
    So you didn't mention your camber settings. I'm running 3.5 front, 2.5 rear, and I'm strongly thinking of lowering the rear negative camber, as I'm unable to get decent traction under acceleration. The rear end is definitely the weak point on these cars, and especially autocross it seems, as the transitions are so much quicker. I'm running a GC coilover setup, IE bar in front on soft, no rear bar.
    I don't have any camber adjustment.

    No rear bar is probably my next move.


    Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
    What are your spring rates? What are your tires and pressures? Have you tried the car with a rear bar?
    Springs;
    H&R Sports
    H&R Sport-------------------------180------------------------380​​​​​​​

    Tires:
    215/45/17 Falken Azeni 615k+
    Ran them at 32 psi

    Rear swaybar:
    H&R on soft.

    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    Pads!?

    What pads are you running?
    Hawk HT-10
    (Suggested by Lee)


    ​​​​​​​
    I ended up not doing the track day, but drove for ride-alongs on the autocross pad, which was setup for drifting.
    Slid the car all over the place, which was fun.

    But, after driving several cars with BC Coils, I'm considering going that route for a good budget setup. (I'd like to maintain my current ride height, which would be doable with that product)
    I also blew a front swaybar link, so that's causing some wayward handling.

    I got the car able to rotate well under braking now, so that issue is solved, but I'm wanting for more in the suspension department.

    Leave a comment:


  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Could run more aggressive pad in the Rear.

    Leave a comment:


  • Digitalwave
    replied
    What are your spring rates? What are your tires and pressures? Have you tried the car with a rear bar?

    Leave a comment:


  • cwlo
    replied
    So you didn't mention your camber settings. I'm running 3.5 front, 2.5 rear, and I'm strongly thinking of lowering the rear negative camber, as I'm unable to get decent traction under acceleration. The rear end is definitely the weak point on these cars, and especially autocross it seems, as the transitions are so much quicker. I'm running a GC coilover setup, IE bar in front on soft, no rear bar.

    Leave a comment:


  • Melon
    replied
    Update:

    The Wilwood proportioning valve allowed me to bias the brakes enough to the rear to be able to rotate it with the brakes.
    Driving in TN, I was able to put it into a decent 4-wheel drift, was very controllable.

    Doing a track day light at NOLA Motorsports park this weekend. I'll report back after that.

    Leave a comment:


  • TobyB
    replied
    Try playing with the front bar as well as the rear.
    It probably doesn't have enough effect to fix much,
    but first try soft, then stiff, then unhooked.

    Just for grins.

    Springs may be required.

    t

    Leave a comment:

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