
NorCal Chat Thread
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the 4.10 is great off the line but when im down shifting to take a turn in not going to 2nd, but going to 3rd so thats hard to get used to.Leave a comment:
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How different of a feel is the 4.10 to the 3.73 if you know? I know the stock non-lsd rear diff is no fun... :(Leave a comment:
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the only reason to have a 4.10LSD is to speed, bc i sure as hell dont have it there for the mpg. =PLeave a comment:
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if its me you are seeing and not the other 2 that are here in SJ, i drive like an idiot. all about the 0-80 on Lawrence =PLeave a comment:
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i hang out here in Cupertino during the day and Campbell at night and south SJ on the weekends @ my dad's.Leave a comment:
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Redline MTL is what i used.
you will need a long flexible pipe and funnel.
and a 17mm alen.Leave a comment:
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Wanna change my transmission fluid. Was wondering what you guys recommend for my 1990 325i 5-speed? Was thinking of putting in either Redline MTL or MT90 as we have it regularly @ the shop. Any other recommendations on fluid type/manufacture? Also how many Quarts necessary (more of a just wanted to know, as I know the procedure of fill till you spill)? Also was looking to swap out rear diff fluid as well and was wondering what you guys would recommend for fluid (Non-LSD)? Figure 75w-90 should be good, but was wondering if I should just do Redline as well or if there is something a tad better? Additives (LSD oil) ok to run?
Thanks in Advance! :)Leave a comment:
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No heater and tubes everywhere would create a pain to retain the hvac vents (due to sealing the box they lead to... And letting it drain water along the firewall still...nah) for no other reason than cosmetics. I'm going to fill them in, but that requires complete deletion of the ds wiping mechanism. Typically it is a cap on the vent, but that is too high profile for this application. Enter the peg leg mono wiper ... I am not 100% bummed, I managed to do this 100% one handed lefty. Fffuuuu...
Like, dislike? Any haterade yet? Haha ...Leave a comment:
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Realizing my last post may make it seem like i think it will fly together without any trouble, I wanted to make a point to say i know it is a lot of work. That is why I originally posted. I did keep some assemblies together though, like the engine/trans/struts, to make it easier (??) by dropping the car over it when it comes time. I have an appt. in an hour to find out the fate of my finger, and get a copy of the xrays. In a week and a half I get paid again though, and will be able to have the parts/repairs i need. Until that time I will do what I can to paint my engine bay, seam seal holes, and paint the interior. Between now and then Ill at least have the car ready to receive the parts that will be going on.Leave a comment:
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nahhhh... A lot of it is ready to just go in. shell swap plus a cage, the wiring and painting is just what might take some time. But it is also last.Leave a comment:
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Pull front subframe and struts from car and install my m52/trans/suspension I took out of the vert
Install 944 booster and modified brake lines (no abs)
Fix bent arc8s
Remove ds from vert, replace csb, install in 88
Remove trailing arms and weld on camber/toe correction plates. Sub is already dropped. Reinstall with diff.
Remove rear hardline T from vert for 88, stole it from the 88 for the abs delete.
Install mishimoto radiator with my 12" permacool fan
Finish last few tubes for roll cage (to front shock towers), paint cage and interior
Install ds door, with lock cylinder from original door. Map pockets off too, or it wont close.
Reinstall f/r windows, new lock strips needed and rear window seal.
Straighten roof more, and patch sunroof hole with cf panel from ebay...
Install pass fender, buy and install pass sideview mirror on door
Buy, install, rear is lip
Install headlights, grilles, valence, and plastic bumpers (bare plastic atm, must be at least primed. Same for the valence, I detexturized it, so it's bare metal)
Paint car (lol? Or just roll un matching )
Wire car with painless wiring kit, no auto door lock, but ineed to figure out how to wire the pwr windows and e36 switches without any of the stock harness. May try to retain the mirror adjustment motors functional, too.
On top of the painless kit, I need to incorporate my RaceTechnology Dash2 display, aka my new instrument "cluster"...this is a good project in itself, wiring and programing for sensors etc
Install race seats with side mounts, ill probably make the brackets.
Buy, install, ss braided brake lines
freshen up stock brakes with new rotors and pads, not enough dough yet for a bbk
That's almost all of it.Leave a comment:
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