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2nd Annual Barbecue at Brody's - March 28th

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  • thereisnoyun
    replied
    noooooooo it says rain on sunday.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mde36
    replied
    Originally posted by e30_325es View Post
    Ean, you don't need to jack the car up to swap rear shocks. Trust me. I've pulled them a few times just out in a parking lot. You need a 19mm socket for the bottom bolt, then a 13mm one for the top ones, and it depends on what shocks you have as far as what size you need for the gland nut.

    Oh, and they won't help making it stiffer, they will only help it bounce less.


    isn't that the same thing? But thanks that helps

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  • e30_325es
    replied
    Ean, you don't need to jack the car up to swap rear shocks. Trust me. I've pulled them a few times just out in a parking lot. You need a 19mm socket for the bottom bolt, then a 13mm one for the top ones, and it depends on what shocks you have as far as what size you need for the gland nut.

    Oh, and they won't help making it stiffer, they will only help it bounce less.

    Leave a comment:


  • trackbball21
    replied
    I did just that - wasted 7 dollars on shipping. such a ripoff. Oh well, I'm replacing all that stuff anyways, so might as well do it now.

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  • ieatpeople
    replied
    if they come with the new rotors than by all means, install the freakin screws, but don't waste money on 4 new screws plus shipping.

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  • trackbball21
    replied
    Originally posted by ieatpeople View Post
    i love how people get all worried about the rotor screw. it doesn't do anything after you bolt the wheel on. The lug bolts hold the wheel on, which in turn holds the rotor in place. ithe screw has no purpose other than keeping the rotor from falling off before you put the wheel on (the rotor can't come off anyway, because it's blocked by the caliper). i guess it makes it a little easier, but who cares?
    Damn, I just wasted 8 bucks....

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  • almostM
    replied
    Ugh I need to move closer to teh toilet, so I can partake...but I guess I need to get ol lapis running first

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  • ieatpeople
    replied
    i love how people get all worried about the rotor screw. it doesn't do anything after you bolt the wheel on. The lug bolts hold the wheel on, which in turn holds the rotor in place. ithe screw has no purpose other than keeping the rotor from falling off before you put the wheel on (the rotor can't come off anyway, because it's blocked by the caliper). i guess it makes it a little easier, but who cares?

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  • ldsbeaker
    replied
    I disagree.

    I'm also really sad that I'm going to miss this.

    That is all.

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  • evil_twin
    replied
    Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post
    did you get teh little set screws for the rotors?
    Originally posted by trackbball21 View Post
    No, I did not. I will order those today. Thanks for reminding me.
    You guys don't need that screw. It's really not a must. Some people say "it holds the rotor in place for it to be centered", but that's also a guy that races that says that. Usually they're there only from the assembly line and when people replace the rotors they just put it back.

    Not a must.

    Leave a comment:


  • ubernasty
    replied
    Originally posted by Mde36 View Post
    cool, if its that easy I might do it before the meet to save time. I'll fix my exhaust leak at the meet.
    just cut the exhaust off... problem solved haha

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  • Mde36
    replied
    cool, if its that easy I might do it before the meet to save time. I'll fix my exhaust leak at the meet.

    Leave a comment:


  • thereisnoyun
    replied
    Originally posted by Mde36 View Post
    its rear shocks, stiffer than the worn out kyb's that are on there now. Hopefully they will get my tires out of my fenders
    we can do the rear easily at the bottom of the hill. one bolt bottom two on top a side, doesnt take long. jack it up from teh diff, dont even need jack stands. I swap the rear shock mounts 3 times on the hill already.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mde36
    replied
    Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post
    installing front shocks requires some experience, cause the holding nut can often rust on to the old strut housing, I would use a 24 inch pipe wrench, or at least have in the past, to break if off, after pbblaster and heat to flow the pbblaster intothe threads.

    fronts are a pain
    its rear shocks, stiffer than the worn out kyb's that are on there now. Hopefully they will get my tires out of my fenders

    Leave a comment:


  • thereisnoyun
    replied
    Originally posted by Mde36 View Post
    yea I want to get them on before the meet. They'll arrive friday but they may have to wait.
    installing front shocks requires some experience, cause the holding nut can often rust on to the old strut housing, I would use a 24 inch pipe wrench, or at least have in the past, to break if off, after pbblaster and heat to flow the pbblaster intothe threads.

    fronts are a pain

    Leave a comment:

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