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    Originally posted by 5Toes View Post
    pro-aduio amplifiers are pretty gnarly George, and I do have some loud music issues, but I rarely ever turn it up that loud


    I googled pro-auduio and found nothing


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      3 QSC RMX 2450's bridged at 4ohms = 2400w/each
      1 QSC RMX 1450 in stereo at 8ohms 260w/channel

      so not quite 9,000 since the 1450 I dont bridge, and the amp power ratings are only average continuous output. these amps weigh 44.5lbs/each - its one heavy amp rack

      I was told by James I could DJ the picnic party this year but after the fire I dont know what the situation is.

      Last edited by 5Toes; 05-26-2017, 07:32 AM.

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        PNW Chit Chat thread

        It's probably peak power vs real numbers. That was why the old Haflers were such beasts. They were usually conservative with the numbers whereas the cheap sh*t always listed Peak..

        And after building out a few clubs years ago, there was something to be said about proper placement and construction to maximize your sound.

        Any goober can throw a few bass bins in a room and call it a thumping nightclub, but it will sound loud and muddled. The key is understanding harmonics and wave length. Then you can create a tight system that makes your chest rumble and not your ears bleed..

        But hey, what do I know..


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
        2016 Ford Flex
        2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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          oh certainly, the 2400w ratings from QSC are not for full frequency response, its a 1khz test tone. QSC never rates any of their amps for max power ratings, they do use this 1khz test tone rating to make their numbers sound beefed up. Regardless they are very powerful amplifiers, and when ran as hard as possible you can only put one amplifier per wall outlet because they pull over 13amps.

          I typically setup all 6 subs coupled which makes the system fairly efficient, even for just bass-reflex design boxes - but still nothing compared to when I play out. QSC amps are among the best, the RMX series arent like the "powerlights" but instead they are old-school style leadsleds with massive toroids in there! I chose them because you do not have to worry about shitty power supply in questionable venues, the capacitors always allow for a constant supply of electricity. The RMX 2450s are about as powerful as my old Crest CA9

          Still nothing compared to when I play out.. my two DJ residencies currently, the one club has all danley cabs (8 Danley 21inch tapped horns for instance) with powersoft amplifiers , the other is a KV2 system with QSC PL4.0 amps - so much bass to play with!

          honestly Luke on this forum kickstarted my passion for audio engineering

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            QSC was reliable for a while, then they had a run of bad in PLX's.. I actually used to run the Mackie's for the mids and highs since they had internal soft clippers that you could slightly overdrive with out any issue. The Crown and Crests would shut down or go in to thermal protection if you overdrove them - yet several club owners seemed to swear by them.

            As for subs, I used to always try and track down old Hafler 500's on the used market.
            Like this one!
            They are farking tanks and you could run them hard all night and bridge them reliably. The key was always to make sure your bass bins where a half or full wave length away from the dance floor. Otherwise you'd get dead spots. I usually found a wall 90 degrees from the DJ booth and bolted those f*ckers together so they all moved as one unit.

            One thing I really came around to, but was apprehensive at first to was the Bose unit for the mid/high array. Their controller was shiate, but I'd usually float them from the ceiling and surround the dancefloor and then just use a Rane crossover and a couple Mackie M1400's to power them. This gave me some clean definition to sound. They are directional enough to not get feedback in to the Turntables, which was a huge issue back in the day.. Even when we suspended the turntables if the system wasn't set up right, you get a ton of feedback through the tone arm.

            Seeing as how everyone is digital now, it's probably not an issue.

            I usually tried to isolate the sound from the DJ booth so that you wouldn't get the feedback when trying to beat match. the subs could be a couple MS off and it's just enough to f*ck up your mix if you drop your headphone for a sec to look up at the crowd.
            1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
            2016 Ford Flex
            2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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              nice pearls of wisdom there - I have run my QSC 2450s pretty hard, sometimes bridged at 2.6ohms, with no shutdowns or anything. Sure, the fans are loud, but they never get too hot! They really are great value for money, I buy all my gear second-hand and have been extremely pleased.

              but yes, nowadays just about everyone is digital, not many vinyl DJ's anymore... and if they are its probably DVS anyways. At our one venue the main stage DJ booth was a cage fighting octagon, and the soft/cushy floor was a nightmare for the vinyl DJ's.

              my current setup I have grown fond of is the QSC RMX's, 6 Yamaha SW18s, Yamaha SV112IV's on top duty and DBX 215EQ + 234xover. For the money I have in the system it performs very nicely :) I am starting to get big into lighting and have been tinkering with that lately. Ill take a video soon cause I am getting 4 new lights in the mail tonight lol

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                YO!

                Is it possible to use a M20b27 clutch setup (clutch, pressure plate, throw out and pilot and slave cylinder) with a single mass M20b25 flywheel and starter?
                -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
                91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
                08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
                04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


                Originally posted by IronJoe
                Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

                Originally posted by 2mAn
                Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

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                  Originally posted by spiDmang View Post
                  YO!

                  Is it possible to use a M20b27 clutch setup (clutch, pressure plate, throw out and pilot and slave cylinder) with a single mass M20b25 flywheel and starter?
                  there diff part #s for the clutch but there both 228mm

                  im sure people have done this before, I have an early 325e fly wheel, with late m20 clutch , to, slave etc, on my m50 swap, with a 240


                  Please leave feedback below, thanks

                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

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                    Originally posted by Matt-B View Post
                    there diff part #s for the clutch but there both 228mm

                    im sure people have done this before, I have an early 325e fly wheel, with late m20 clutch , to, slave etc, on my m50 swap, with a 240
                    gotcha. ive just been seeing a lot of conflicting information regarding this. I have a brand new ETA clutch kit that i really dont wanna go to waste...but i dont wanna use my ETA dual mass flywheel...i feel like if i use everything from the ETA clutch kit and just utilize the single mass FW and starter, i should be fine. I cant see why it wouldnt work when the clutch diameters are both the same...
                    -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
                    91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
                    08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
                    04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


                    Originally posted by IronJoe
                    Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

                    Originally posted by 2mAn
                    Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

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                      from what I have read all m20 clutch kits are the same, even if different part numbers. please report your findings brad!

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                        Originally posted by spiDmang View Post
                        YO!

                        Is it possible to use a M20b27 clutch setup (clutch, pressure plate, throw out and pilot and slave cylinder) with a single mass M20b25 flywheel and starter?


                        Are you using an eta trans or late trans?


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                          So, there is no way I am dropping the motor for this damn wiper linkage. This is what I came up with for now, lol.

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                            PNW Chit Chat thread

                            318 and 325 front subframes are the same right?


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                              Originally posted by Pdxseth View Post
                              318 and 325 front subframes are the same right?


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
                              Yes. You should inspect your 318i subframe for cracks, though.
                              '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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                                Originally posted by spiDmang View Post
                                YO!

                                Is it possible to use a M20b27 clutch setup (clutch, pressure plate, throw out and pilot and slave cylinder) with a single mass M20b25 flywheel and starter?
                                Only problem you will run into is the stack height, dm flywheel is 12mm taller a believe.. so if your using a late model trans, you might need to use the euro b23 throw out bearing to mount perfectly

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