89' 325i m20 wont start!!

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  • spiDmang
    replied
    damn it dude, should have texted me...i already bought one...

    ryan, lets meet up so you can take a look at my car.

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  • Carter_22
    replied
    I've got a brand new bosch coil sitting in it's box not doing me any good. Make me an offer.

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  • spiDmang
    replied
    well when the car is running, it does have a lumpy idle (idles around 700-720 rpms), and the car drives great when up and running.

    as for the coil, i dont know the last time it was changed (bought this car a couple weeks ago), so ive been trying to rule out as much as possible, as well as replace whatever needs to be replaced.

    I did notice that when i tested for spark, the spark was a light yellow color. ive heard it should be a bright blue? if that makes any difference?

    next thing im going to try and do is compression test her, and possibly getting a new Fuel filter and coil.

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  • djjerme
    replied
    i checked the resistance of the coil, and the ohm reading is .7 - .8...bentley says resistance should be roughly .50
    So if you have higher resistance, that can mean little or no spark. How old is the coil? The coil can die from either age, or OVER-heating.

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  • djjerme
    replied
    Is it slow to crank or is it cranking fine, but not getting ignition?

    If slow to crank, possible starter (or the cable leading to starter).

    In order for ANY car to run, you need three basics: ignition, compression, fuel.

    because you are saying the issue is more prevalent with heat, then it could be something fuel related, but it could also be something electrical since heat = resistance. possible places to check: The wire to the crank position sensor (those can get beat to hell, and the rubber insulation can get brittle possible to have a short issue as well). You did cap and rotor, and if the car actually runs, then the problem is not between the rotor and plugs. There is a possibility of the coil, but that would be a problem with running, not so much just starting.

    You can try and rule out some issues as well, if the problem is more when warm, then you can rule out the O2 sensor, the Cold start valve, and possibly the valve train (that would cause issues while running.) This leaves a timing input to the ECU (or maybe the coil) or a fuel issue.

    You can try unplugging the fuel pressure regulators vacuum line, and see if that makes a difference. Also, and be super cautious when doing this, you can disconnect the supply line to the regulator/fuel rail, and try cranking it over to verify fuel is getting to the rail.

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  • spiDmang
    replied
    so replaced the cap and rotor, and it helped significantly with cold start up's. on the other hand, whenever i have the car warmed up, and start her back up, she has a hard time starting...

    Fuel issue i assume?!

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  • Carter_22
    replied
    Did you check for spark? Is your fuel level gauge accurate? Put some fuel in it to be sure. Grab a can of starting fluid and see if it catches on that, if it does, you can assume spark, and you probably have a fuel problem.

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  • spiDmang
    replied
    anyone!! pleassssse! im stranded in bellingham until i can get my car running!

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  • spiDmang
    replied
    also the CPS isnt faulty.....fcukkkkkk!!!! where do i go from here?

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  • spiDmang
    replied
    Originally posted by AbeSonic
    Maybe? Idk use the search feature this wonderful website has lol. You might be able to reach it/see it but there might be stuf in the way. On the crank on the furthest pulle away from you, (the one touching the block), on the upper right portion you will find the cps. Did you check for spark at the coil yet?
    i checked the resistance of the coil, and the ohm reading is .7 - .8...bentley says resistance should be roughly .50

    Leave a comment:


  • spiDmang
    replied
    ok guys, i found the crank position sensor (also called the "pulse sensor" or "reference sensor" in the bentley)

    I'm going to test this bad boy, but the damn 5mm hex nut seems stripped beyond belief! any good way to remove this bitch?

    Leave a comment:


  • goinstrong
    replied
    The crankcase position sensor is on the passenger side near the front of the block between the oil filter housing and the distributor, but closer to the ground. It is held in by one bolt or nut, and the wire feeds back to the other side of the engine by the water pump.

    If you have spark, I am not sure this is your issue. I think (someone correct me if I am wrong!) that you won't get spark if this part isn't working properly...

    Tim

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  • AbeSonic
    replied
    Originally posted by Eric Devier
    Don't forget that you also need pancakes as well.
    Yes and pancakes as well.

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  • AbeSonic
    replied
    Maybe? Idk use the search feature this wonderful website has lol. You might be able to reach it/see it but there might be stuf in the way. On the crank on the furthest pulle away from you, (the one touching the block), on the upper right portion you will find the cps. Did you check for spark at the coil yet?

    Leave a comment:


  • spiDmang
    replied
    is there a DIY on replacing the CPS?

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