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the later m10 ran piano top pistons. the 02 in 2.0L had flat tops. don't think the flat tops work with the 1.8 head and the piano tops won't work with the 2.0 crank. check the part numbers on e21s...
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if you threw a rod you're gonna need a replacement engine. whatever you refresh will depend on the health of the replacement. that needs to be determined first. an engine swap from an m10 to any other...
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as above, however, i'd smoke it for a definitive leak test.
edit : fyi the hamburg tech icv is hamburger tech in operation and has caused the same issue....
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an oe wheel refurbisher and reseller. they sell reps and oe refurbished/repaired wheels. there's a few businesses like them.
https://www.rtwwheels.com/...
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took it in for a paint and bodywork appraisal. will be spending stupidly lol .....
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rtw lists them. check on their pricing for a ballpark guide....
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probably cheaper to find a stock single mass eta flywheel but that's the same idea....
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pull the etm for your car and year from here Index of /Manuals/BMW (wedophones.com)
make sure to keep a copy as the resource isn't going to be around forever. you can use it to trace the wiring...
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no difference in diameter but it does not have the reference pin needed for the cps and reference sensors the eta uses. there is/was a single mass eta alternative fw, iirc they were on 325 only or non...
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castro does it that way. they are hydraulic and come with their own set of fail over time. they also place the engine a little different and require some hammering on the firewall / trans tunnel to c...
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think the original recipe was e36 mount arms with e28 rubber mounts. a quick google shows garagistic mentioning the 535i mount. there's info here on the board on it.
edit : poly is a matter...
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guess it depends on the definition of budget. there's piles of aftermarket solutions. garagistic, condor, ecs, turner, etc
edit : if you only want rubber your options are limited.
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later i cars were single pump, and i *think* the seta was a single pump system. the single pump system never had the pulse damper and late dual pump systems also deleted it.
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csb starting to fail is the most likely culprit. it would be prudent to check all of the driveline components and bushings. axles, diff, driveshaft, csb, etc....
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i kinda figured it out. my mom gave me shit over it lol. she told me it made sense they were only active on low beam as that would cut under the fog, using high beam would just throw the light right...
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stock fog light question
i've got a late model post face lift 89 plastic bumper i car with the fogs in the valence. i've been sorting issues lately and got the fogs working. they only work in the low beam headlight position...
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you need the short little wire harness for the back up switch. also check the wires under shifter console for that same harness. i can't recall if you have to change a plug or something....
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