New to M10s

[gettinscurvy]

Ok, the thread title is an understatement. I'm new to piston engines entirely. I recently acquired an '85 318I. I just removed the ICV because it's been having idling issues.

Could anyone point me to the idle set screw on the TB do I can adjust my idle?

Here's a link to my other thread;

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=291452

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[gettinscurvy]

No one has a detailed picture?

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[willworkfore30s]

you must be patient grasshopper

[Smelser]

look to the throttle plate area, whre the cable attaches. there is a screw there. you turn it

[Jaxx_]

also, loosen the stop nut before you try cranking on the screw with a flathead.

[gettinscurvy]

Alright guys. I wrestled my intake elbow off, removed the stop nut and adjusted the screw a couple turns. I then put everything back together and she now idles at a smooth ~800 RPM...However, she mostly dies after a few seconds as it seems to lose fuel pressure. I'm going to check the FPR which looks to be original and see what we got.

[5Toes]

hmmmm why not find a good used ICV or clean yours?????????

[bmwm42]

Good advice toes also search for the penny trick to solve your idle issue

[gettinscurvy]

Because when asking in the New Members thread about erratic idle I was directed to the M10 forum where apparently a lot of people have problems with their idle. It seemed that the general consensus was that the ICV was the culprit and people just recommended removing it. When I got the car it idled at 3k rpm and at one point loped from 1k-1.2k. When I removed it and adjusted the idle set screw a little it idles steadily at 800 rpm, so it seems to have worked so far.

[E30_Pare]

Good advice toes also search for the penny trick to solve your idle issue

I hate the penny trick. I had a failed icv/vacuum leaks/bad inline fuel pump = 2/3000 idle.

changed my fuel pump = 2000 idle

penny trick = 800 idle

icv delete = perfect idle, no cold start, moar powwa

[Deadskittles]

I also agree with the deleting of the ICV, it just seems to run better. Also I had a fuel pump go for me which sucks. So check both your in tank and inline fuel pumps.

[gettinscurvy]

Ok guys...we took off the head due to the horrendous amount of gunk in there...We also noticed that there was a trace amount of coolant in the gunky oil in the head...





Once all removed after much cussing and scratched hands we found this :(:(:(







The only good thing to come of it was we were able to clean things up nicely...





So no we're trying to feel out our options.

What we know so far;

We could replace the whole M10 with another M10 or even upgrade. For the sake of ease at first we're mostly considering just another M10. Does anyone know of a writeup for swapping an M10 from an autotragic or the like? There's a really clean one on CL right now and it would be a shame to let it slip by...

Thanks for reading!

[boostless]

That sucks but you should be able to swap the flex plate for the flywheel and clutch and be good to go. How's the head look?

[gettinscurvy]

Alright boys and girls! We've made a little bit of progress since last I posted.

We bought a used M10 from a fellow local R3V member. We were quoted that it was running fine before it was pulled, so there's hope!

We relocated the car from my apartment building to my friend's garage. We took the cracked engine and the transmission out this past Sunday. We're looking forward to installing the new engine this coming Saturday. I plan on cleaning up the bay and the engine after work tomorrow.

If you guys have any tips, please feel free to share them!

[gettinscurvy]

Ready to get shit done!

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