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M54 (dual vanos engine) swap thread. MS42, MS43, MS45.1

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    M54 (dual vanos engine) swap thread. MS42, MS43, MS45.1

    Here is how I swapped M54B30(or M54B25) into 1986 E30, I will only cover information that is different than M50 installation.

    M54b30 is a great engine, its not all about peak power. This engine is nice and smooth running with original MS43 engine management. They are made from 2001 to 2006.
    Best is to get M54 from 2001/2002 530i or X5, they will be less abused and engine harness will be long enough for the DME to fit above the glove box in E30. If you get one from 330ci/I then you will have to get engine harness from 5 series. I was able to get one from 2001 X5, complete for cheap but it had a missing DISA valve, that is expensive and you want to get one with good DISA valve and alternator.

    #1 Oil pan. E34 oil pan fits, same as M50 on that. The M50 oil pump does not fit. You must use your M54 oil pan then mod the M54 pickup tube. I prefer the 1995 E34 oil pan, the baffle is separate, you will have to use the M54 oil baffle then brake off the oil pickup tube mounts. If you get older E34 oil pan, you will have to remove the integrated oil baffle. M54 oil pickup tube is easy to mod, cut the tube right where it comes out the oil pump just to give you enough room for weld, then cut the tube right before it starts making a bend towards snorkel, remove the tube when cutting, then clean it, install then make measurements so that the snorkel fits properly inside the E34 oil pan. UPDATE 2015: You don'
    t have to manufacture those parts. The pickup tube for engines made beginning January 2000 is part number 11417503261. The pickup tube for engines made before January 2000 is part number 11411432735. (They are not interchangeable without modification due to different oil pump & deflector designs.) For January 2000 and newer engines the oil deflector (or windage tray) is also required unless you want to modify your existing one like jjt did. It's part number 11137502669.


    #2 Oil pan dipstick tube. E34 dipstick with added nipple that you will have to remove from your M54 dipstick, then make a proper measurement then weld it. It is a drain for the oil separator. Similar procedure is done for S52 OBD2 swap. Scroll down to another post where I got better solution for this.


    #3 Fuel pressure regulator and filter. On M54 fuel filter has integrated fuel pressure regulator. Charcoal canister will have to be moved. I moved mine where ABS pump sat, but I don't have ABS so you will have to find room for it. The the vacuum hose from the oil separator goes to pressure regulator. And fuel line from the fuel filter goes to fuel rail. It is quick connect but you don't need that, you can force the 8mm pressure fuel hose on to the rail line then above the notch put a clamp. Fuel filter can be secured with a bmw thin hose clamp, just loops around.


    #4 Heater lines. There is only one heater line in the back of the M54 engine, the other line comes from a T on the E46 radiator. You would have to make to install a T and then route it to the heater core. I did not use the heater option, I live in hot climate. I just plugged up the rear plastic heater line. You can use quick connect, just cut the clamp and remove the hose, then install what ever length you need to what ever radiator option you want to use. I am using 318i radiator with one inch trimmed E30 mechanical fan.

    #5 Radiator hoses. Use gates 21900, then cut to fit, you get lower and upper hose. Use the quick connects from the E46 thermostat hoses, then cut the clamps and remove the E46 hose from them.



    #6 Power steering tank. E46 location can be used, so that it fits on the oil filter housing, then run the lines down. You will have to buy some oil resistant hoses there, I don't use power steering, I manualised my E30 rack, and I am happy that I did. Steering feel is great, little stiff at stand still. I use thin 185 tires.

    #7 Brake power booster. It barely does not clear. E21 booster will clear but the master cylinder will touch the intake boot. So I ended up going with this:
    -Brake booster donor car: 1997 VW Jetta. 96-99 all work
    -Brake booster part number: W01331598294ATE
    -Brake booster manufacturer and manufacturer PN or identifying marks: Stock VW, ATE brand
    -Modifications needed: Rod must be cut to size then rethreaded or to me it was more easy to just cut it and weld on the E30 adjustable end to it. Had to mod the rod that pushes master cylinder, I had to extend it, welded 7mm rod so that is at same height as E30. Plastic clip that holds the brake line behind the booster had to be trimmed down.

    Hakentt spec modded booster:



    Installed:


    #8 Exhaust manifolds. You won't be able to use M54 manifolds, even if you could, they are very restrictive. Use 96-99 M52/S52 tubular manifolds, some euro models came with these on their M54. I would not recommend any china headers on M54, that is because M54 lacks all of the studs.

    #9 Intake hoses. 330i hoses will work. Don't use 530I/X5 hoses they have less of an angle and won't clear the brake master.

    #10 Coolant temperature sensor for the gauge. It will fit in the block drain plug, but aftermarket sensor with shorter sensing element has to be used and use two washers. Original one is too long.

    #11 Electronic accelerator pedal. Very simple install. The mounting bracket will not fit properly. I did not want to remove the carpet to make proper modifications so that mounting bracket just snaps on. But that can be done if you were to remove the carpet for cleaning. The upper mounting on E30 where pedal stop is located will have to be moved up half of an inch then rewelded. The bottom part will just have to be cut to shape. But I kept the carpet so installed the top part with a bolt, then bottom part of the bracket down in the carpet, then I drilled a small hole and installed sheet metal screw to secure the bracket, then trimmed some of the plastic from the pedal to clear the sheet metal screw head when slid on there. You must be careful with the bracket it can crack easy and they cost about $12. You can use any E46 gas pedal, mine is actually a pedal from Mini. Update jan 2014: I did not like the way the gas pedal sits, it is level with brake pedal. I removed the holding bracket and moved the pedal more in to provide more depth, small section of the carpet would have to be cut for the pedal to sit like E30 stock one does.


    #12 Engine harness and engine management(MS43) installation and wiring. It all fits and routs fine. I used E30 harness bracket to mount M54 harness loom on the blower motor cover. Then the relays and DME can fit inside above glove box. I decided to install the relays outside then just the DME inside for proper fit. I will post more detailed information about the wiring later. But it is very simple. I coded the MS43 DME so that none of the emissions component are required, no EWS. Basically the MS43 works same as OBD1 DME. With minimal wiring it works great. I am also working on MS45.1. This was the only obstacle for people to start using these great engine in their E30.

    #13. Engine installation. Install the long block first, then the harness, then the intake manifold, then install the nut that secures the manifold to the block, then install the throttle body. There is no need to remove brake booster, it can stay there.

    #14. A/C compressor from same engine can be used, E46 compressor is better than E36, it creates great pressure with less load on the engine. No need to wire anything special, just use the E30 original compressor trigger wire. MS43 dme is so good that it detects the extra load on the engine and quickly adjusts the idle. Custom adaptors must be made from E46 ac lines to E30 as you can see in my photo it is home made.


    #15 Wiring harness. You will be only working with wire section that have 02 sensor plugs on it like you see in the photo. Simply remove the automatic transmission wiring from that harness, it has blue plug. Main ground wire is brown in color and it goes to chassis, it will have black sleeve on it. Direct 12 volt wires are 4 red wires that are in pairs on a black plug, simply strip them and install banjo connector and install them on 12+ from battery. The 12 pin black plug goes to main engine harness and 12 pin clear plug goes to chassis, that's where the starter and alternator wiring is at. I will cover the specific wiring in another thread.

    Photo of the harness that you will be working with the most:


    You will have to use E39 temperature sensor on the cylinder head.

    Clear 12 pin connector:
    1.empty
    2.empty
    3.to starter black
    4.empty
    5.empty
    6.alternator -15 white/green
    7.red/white wire do not use
    8.empty
    9.A-OLD don't use
    10.F-OLN don't use
    11.unknown
    12.empty

    The dual 2 pin connectors with red wires are all 12+ constant battery
    You will have to wire fuel pump relay the same way it is on E36, it is just basic 5 pin light green relay. The DME and Injectors relay is already integrated into MS42/MS43 harness.
    on green 4 pin relay(61368366600) 85-86 is a coil, so pin 10 will go to one of them and other one goes to bat+ then Pin 30 is bat+ and 87 goes to power fuel pump.

    40 pin X60004 plug wiring:

    1: alternator charge indicator signal, [run this wire to inctrument cluster battery light]
    7: ground wire for electronic pedal to pin 1 [MS43 only]
    8: electronic pedal signal to pin 4 [MS43]
    9: voltage supply for pedal pin 5 [MS43]
    10: fuel pump relay activation ground wire [wire this to fuel pump relay, sends ground signal to activate fuel pump relay coil]
    11: oil pressure warning light [wire to instrument cluster oil pressure light]
    12: ground pedal sensor to pin 2 [MS43]
    13: signal pedal sensor to pin 6 [MS43]
    14: voltage supply for pedal to pin 3 [MS43]
    17: RPM signal to instrument cluster
    22: Speed signal [gets speed signal from E30 cluster]
    23: Clutch switch signal [gets negative ground signal from clutch switch]
    26: switched +12 from ignition switch
    32: K-line to pin 7 of OBD2 connector

    That is it for X60004 connector, no need to connect any other wires

    HakenTT swap stand alone MS43 engine management unit. No emulator. I offer this work for cheap, contact me via PM.


    New video of the swap: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_cTBdNC0Vc
    To be continued...
    Last edited by DesertBMW; 07-29-2016, 11:57 AM. Reason: update - July 2016

    #2
    Wow, same power as an s52? Nice install guide, this will be the new 24v budget swap.
    IG: @Baye30

    FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

    Comment


      #3
      Great info. I think the M54 is a very underrated engine.

      Does the M54b25 use the same MS43 ECU? Just curious as people looking to make a track oriented car may use this engine to avoid "harmonic" issues.

      Can you access the VANOS tables? I have always been curious at what points the intake cam is advanced and by how much, ect. I don't have any use for the info except just understanding cam opening and closing related to rpm.


      This is a great step forward to make these engines an easy swap into the E30. I think most people would love the broad powerband given by dual vanos and the lightweight engine package.
      -Nick

      M42 on VEMS

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by golde30 View Post
        Wow, same power as an s52? Nice install guide, this will be the new 24v budget swap.
        S50/52 is faster than M54. Stock M54 has more low end but lacks high end. And the harmonic issues of the 3.0 are quite annoying. Most people trying to get power out of an M54 do headers and exhaust, maybe cams and then give up, because it is really not a racing motor. Just a good DD motor. If you redline it too much you run the risk of popping it.

        They are great motors; I have a 330i and it's an awesome DD. But they have neither the headroom nor the aftermarket support of the S5x.

        Comment


          #5
          :firehop: :firehop: :firehop: :firehop:

          FREE
          KEEN
          YUSH

          M54 has to be by far one of my favorite swaps, exactly for the reasons noted. It will definitely be my final swap into my e30, simply because it is the best spirited DD BMW engine at that power range.

          Although it is true an M54 will be out powered by the S5x stock (like 5HP), but if you manage to find a ZHP M54 and a decent tune, theres no reason an OEM+ M54 wont put out more power. Chip, headers, and exhaust will put it in the "extreme fun-for-value" category, maybe even more of a value than s5x. I've seen m54s dynoed to ~260WHP and ~270 torque, and yes; the curve is nice, some may argue even nicer than an s5x. Plus the sound with a nice tune is sublime.

          Aftermarket support is where the s5x wins out though; m54s have a tiny aftermarket. There's not much you can do with it unless you heavily fab stuff and are willing to pay $$$.


          Still, I love the guide
          Bookmark'd for sure
          Last edited by JinormusJ; 08-20-2013, 10:38 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
            S50/52 is faster than M54. Stock M54 has more low end but lacks high end. And the harmonic issues of the 3.0 are quite annoying. Most people trying to get power out of an M54 do headers and exhaust, maybe cams and then give up, because it is really not a racing motor. Just a good DD motor. If you redline it too much you run the risk of popping it.

            They are great motors; I have a 330i and it's an awesome DD. But they have neither the headroom nor the aftermarket support of the S5x.
            The S52 has the same issues as the M54b30 because they have the same crank. The aluminum block on the M54 may not be quite as rigid, but I would like to know what the difference really is since the two engines use different block construction. Most people think it is simply an aluminum block that is the same as the iron block in design with only a material change. This is not the case at all.

            The M54 uses a different oil pump arrangement which may be less robust. Im doubtful this is true, and even if it is Im sure the difference is marginal. The M54s tend to lose the oil pump nut or shear the oil pump shaft and people say its a horrible motor and prone to failure. The S52 has the exact same failure modes and no one bats an eye and just says "yeah that happens all the time." I find it funny its totally acceptable for one engine and not for the other.

            The best solution to the oil pump issue can be found on E46fanatics in Adams threads (PEI330Ci). The new pump has has a different method for mounting the pump gear that is much more robust. Of course, the best solution is to get an ATI torsional damper....same goes for the S52.
            -Nick

            M42 on VEMS

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by JinormusJ View Post
              :firehop: :firehop: :firehop: :firehop:

              FREE
              KEEN
              YUSH

              M54 has to be by far one of my favorite swaps, exactly for the reasons noted. It will definitely be my final swap into my e30, simply because it is the best spirited DD BMW engine at that power range.

              Although it is true an M54 will be out powered by the S5x stock (like 5HP), but if you manage to find a ZHP M54 and a decent tune, theres no reason an OEM+ M54 wont put out more power. Chip, headers, and exhaust will put it in the "extreme fun-for-value" category, maybe even more of a value than s5x. I've seen m54s dynoed to ~260WHP and ~270 torque, and yes; the curve is nice, some may argue even nicer than an s5x. Plus the sound with a nice tune is sublime.

              Aftermarket support is where the s5x wins out though; m54s have a tiny aftermarket. There's not much you can do with it unless you heavily fab stuff and are willing to pay $$$.


              Still, I love the guide
              Bookmark'd for sure
              Even with ZHP cams, the M54 kind of falls on its face after 6k (if you really want to rev it that high) whereas the S5x will keep pulling: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=192164

              You'll notice because of the milder cams and the more capable Vanos the M54 has a nice fat torque band until about 4k, then it dips a bit and the S50 takes over.

              Originally posted by wazzu70 View Post
              The S52 has the same issues as the M54b30 because they have the same crank. The aluminum block on the M54 may not be quite as rigid, but I would like to know what the difference really is since the two engines use different block construction. Most people think it is simply an aluminum block that is the same as the iron block in design with only a material change. This is not the case at all.

              The M54 uses a different oil pump arrangement which may be less robust. Im doubtful this is true, and even if it is Im sure the difference is marginal. The M54s tend to lose the oil pump nut or shear the oil pump shaft and people say its a horrible motor and prone to failure. The S52 has the exact same failure modes and no one bats an eye and just says "yeah that happens all the time." I find it funny its totally acceptable for one engine and not for the other.

              The best solution to the oil pump issue can be found on E46fanatics in Adams threads (PEI330Ci). The new pump has has a different method for mounting the pump gear that is much more robust. Of course, the best solution is to get an ATI torsional damper....same goes for the S52.
              You are focusing on one thing I said. The fact remains, the M54, while not slow is not meant to be a top-end motor. For an E30 I would rather something I can wind out to 7-8k fruitfully which is something an S50 will do out of the box.

              Comment


                #8
                2004 M54 ZHP with MS45.1 management into E30:

                Wideband oxygen sensors installed on E36 manifolds, then routed up.

                Installed ZHP long block. Sits very close to the brake line, what I had to do is eliminate plastic brake line holder and just rap the brake line and push it more back for the back of the cylinder head to have proper clearance.

                Wiring harness from 2004 530i, you need it for proper placement of the DME.




                Video of ZHP engine running https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Co46UBsTUg
                more to come...
                Last edited by DesertBMW; 10-31-2015, 06:27 PM. Reason: MS45.1 swap information added

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by DesertBMW View Post
                  Hoveringuy proved with his dyno chart that M54B30 can hang with S52. Your argument that M54 is not a racing motor is true, but neither is S52, all S52 is overbored M52. Real racing engine is euro S50 and S54. Its not all about peak power. M54B30 produces about 20lb more torq at low end than S52, this makes it a great engine for overall use, you can put 2.93 rear diff and it will still move the car around easily. I am not arguing that M54 is better motor for racing than S52. What I am saying when you average everything out M54 is great engine.
                  As I said a thousand times, it's a great motor overall. But it is not really able to hang with a healthy S5x at speed. I have tracked my M54 car; power was adequate but it was far from an exciting motor and left me wanting more. S5x cars I have driven and ridden in (many) have all had healthy top ends. You seem to be touting this motor as a cheaper lighter replacement for an S5x and
                  I disagree. The S5x is a more sports-oriented motor, M54 is more DD. One is not altogether better than the other.

                  I should add that I'm not trying to discount the information or work you've put into making this a more accessible swap, nor do I want to discount the swap as a whole. I would definitely like an M54 E30 dd (though the MS43/45 low-rpm throttle lag is annoying). But if you are after ultimate power and potential, this is not the swap I'd perform. Also, don't overheat it. :p
                  Last edited by Wh33lhop; 08-20-2013, 02:38 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
                    You are focusing on one thing I said. The fact remains, the M54, while not slow is not meant to be a top-end motor. For an E30 I would rather something I can wind out to 7-8k fruitfully which is something an S50 will do out of the box.
                    S50s can do 7-8k fruitfully? Non-Euro? Maybe once....
                    -Nick

                    M42 on VEMS

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
                      Even with ZHP cams, the M54 kind of falls on its face after 6k (if you really want to rev it that high) whereas the S5x will keep pulling: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=192164

                      You'll notice because of the milder cams and the more capable Vanos the M54 has a nice fat torque band until about 4k, then it dips a bit and the S50 takes over.

                      You are focusing on one thing I said. The fact remains, the M54, while not slow is not meant to be a top-end motor. For an E30 I would rather something I can wind out to 7-8k fruitfully which is something an S50 will do out of the box.
                      I don't think I would have any complaints about a redline below 7k, but what is it that restricts the m54b30 from reving higher? Is it just the cams? On paper the m54 looks capable but at the same time I'd like there to be some headroom for tuning. Going to start gearing up for this swap in the next couple years :).
                      My Feedback

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks for putting together the guide. I am with wheelhop however, i dislike the m54 in my e46 a lot. It stops pulling right when I want it to pull harder.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yes cams help a lot. If you put S50 cams in an M50 you get very good results....same thing goes for this motor.

                          A dyno thread for reference:
                          -Nick

                          M42 on VEMS

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks for all the good info! But I don't agree that it's a cheaper swap than an S52 unless you went with a high mileage engine. Low mileage M54b30's still cost $2k+ and $600 for the ECU flash puts it farther ahead. I do believe it's a better engine for everyday driving than a US S50 or S52. A BMW with an M54b30 feels more responsive to me than an S50'd car especially in the lower RPM's. The M54 also feels considerably more smooth. I'd say if you want a responsive smooth running engine that gets great fuel economy the M54 is the way to go but if you like a more raw and rev happy engine go with the S50/S52. In reference to the oil pump I personally would go with a custom subframe to work with the M54's oil pan rather than trying to modify the pickup to work with an E34 pan.
                            Last edited by Andrew325is; 08-22-2013, 08:12 AM.
                            Plug and Play Wiring Harness Adapters for S54, S50, M54 and more.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              M54 swap information thread. Cheap and easy.

                              Originally posted by Andrew325is View Post
                              In reference to the oil pump I personally would go with a custom subframe to work with the M54's oil pan rather than trying to modify the pickup to work with an E34 pan.
                              THIS

                              Even though an e34 pan bolts up, going with the m54 oil pan eliminates the need for a skid-plate because it is rear-sump and all, and high enough that if you were to go over an oilpan-busting bump, you'd hit steering rack and subframe before doing any damage to the pan



                              I've also wondered if it is smarter to go s52 oilpan and rework the subframe than use the e34 pan. The only good thing about the e34 pan is "plug-and-play"-ability, other than that, you gotta drill an engine oil sensor and it's much too low..

                              Comment

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