Wilwood pedal set w/ stk rear brake regulator ?

[36brua]

Hi all, I'm laying out the brake line install when using the Wilwood pedal set up/Garagistic mount.
I'm planning to retain the ABS system.
Any input pro/con on removing the stock rear brake regulator since the pedals come with adjustable bias? using 2 ea 5/8 bore cyl.

Thanks

[Vtec?lol]

I left mine in there that way I can set the bias bar 50/50 and still get the same brake distribution. I had to do maybe 45/55 to be exact.

[36brua]

I left mine in there that way I can set the bias bar 50/50 and still get the same brake distribution. I had to do maybe 45/55 to be exact.

Thanks ! so the 45/55+- is the bias bar F/R adjustment with the stk rear proportion valve installed ?

[Vtec?lol]

55 front. With the factory valve intact.

I went out when it was wet and slammed on my brakes until I got the rears to lock up. Then I backed off on the rears until I got the fronts to lockup first.
You always want your fronts to have more lockup than the rears and I'd recommend testing in wet conditions.

[36brua]

Thanks VTEC oooo slamming brakes on in rain fuunnn

[Madhatter]

I put a bias adjuster in there and removed the factory fixed one. Put it up nice and close to the balance bar adjuster and the reservoirs in the engine bay (can't have them in the car by law here). Of course I've got aftermarket calipers on the front too, and at some stage I plan to upgrade the rear, so I figured it was probably $50 well spent.

[LoneWolf]

You guys run these pedal sets without power assist right?

Whats the pedal like with manual brakes? Tough to deal with on a dd?

[36brua]

You guys run these pedal sets without power assist right?

Whats the pedal like with manual brakes? Tough to deal with on a dd?

Correct no assist. I can't say quite yet but a
couple of comments from others
Madhatter
Pedal feel is better than stock, while effort is actually pretty close with the 6.2:1 pedal box and 5/8 cylinders. Flat spotted 3 tyres so far it's that good (old tyres). ---Brakes
MJCRO
I'm running a single 3/4" compact master cylinder from Wilwood on my car. Feel and return is basically stock. --- Clutch

[MJCRO]

For daily driving, it's not ideal unless you upgrade to some grippy pads or bigger brakes. But don't take my word though since I'm still running stock rotors with crappy Autozone pads lol. There were a few times where I had to really get on the brakes before a fast changing light and just barely stopping with my foot slammed on the pedal. Still need to bleed my brakes a tiny bit more but I'm definitely upgrading to something better soon. I'm gonna try slotted rotors and better pads first and then if that doesn't help, going for that E30 RX-7 brake kit when I get more funds.

[Madhatter]

yeah, no booster here. But I run a twin master cylinder along with a longer ratio pedal, so it helps provide more leverage.

[LoneWolf]

Cool thanks for the feedback.

You guys just rebending the factory lines to work?

I would like to keep the ABS, so I am curious how you guys are doing that. Leaving the ABS in stock location?

[MJCRO]

I bought lines at Autozone and bent them to fit from my pedals to the ABS unit. I didn't move anything. You can check out my build thread for pictures.

[Madhatter]

Purchased an excellent flaring tool, made all new ones from scratch :)

[LoneWolf]

Purchased an excellent flaring tool, made all new ones from scratch :)

Whoa! where did that come from? Me wants. Those cheap ones suck as I found out when installing a bias valve

[Madhatter]

It's basically a copy of the sykes pickavant 270 flaring tool, which is one of the best on the market. They make a bunch of specialty tools, but they can be really expensive. You could find the same one from summit racing.

http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/kti-70081/overview/