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Do I have to drop the frame again?

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    Do I have to drop the frame again?

    I pulled the rod that the button would thread onto. It's several inches long and has a hook on the other end. I am not sure how this connects to the locking mechanism. I can't find a diagram showing the part on RealOEM. Wondering if anyone knows what I'm talking about and how to connect these parts.



    The rod that the spring would sit over. Can't figure out how to set the rod.

    UPDATING THIS THREAD TO AVOID HAVING TOO MANY PAGES OF MINE HERE. See below for diff questions
    Last edited by HerbE30; 01-27-2018, 03:29 PM.
    20% Accurate

    Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

    #2
    https://images.cdn.circlesix.co/imag...2b84db8d0e.jpg

    This would give a better idea of what I am trying to do. I believe that it would require that the cables be removed so the handle can go completely vertical so that the pawl would be more inclined to receive the hook.

    Still clueless, I tried for 40 minutes on my lunch. Any tips would be awesome.
    20% Accurate

    Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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      #3
      I cannot help because I have never taken that apart. but, one thing I have learned from this is to not ever take it apart

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        #4
        Originally posted by superj View Post
        I cannot help because I have never taken that apart. but, one thing I have learned from this is to not ever take it apart
        Lesson absolutely learned. I can't find an article for any vehicle. I see that they sell the rods, so why not install them.

        I am not even sure how I removed it in the first place. I assume that it was when I had no cables from the subframe drop. Once I figure it out I will share it.

        I can get the lever to lock by holding my hand where I can feel the pawl on the bottom.
        20% Accurate

        Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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          #5
          Welp, I removed the cables so the lever can go full vertical. Still unable to attach the hook to the pawl.

          I guess I will live my life as super mega doridori man. Or swap parts form the coupe....
          20% Accurate

          Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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            #6
            I dreamed I fixed this. Can't remember how.
            20% Accurate

            Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

            Comment


              #7
              Diff/Subframe questions

              As stated in an older thread one of my rear wheels has about a full degree of toe-in. I assume this is what has caused one of my axles to fail (as I can move it by hand?).

              I am a bad person so I ignored the issue for the time being. Now that same side has cause the seal on the diff to fail. Could this be related to the vibration from the bad axle?

              I am still a little confused about splitting the shafts out and replacing the seals, but seems straight forward.

              I feel like I should tackle these all at once, which would include
              1. Dropping subframe to weld eccentrics
              2. Replacing CV with one of the spares I have
              3. Replacing the seals from the diff.

              Do you guys think I should do all of these at once? What is the likelihood that the bad alignment could cause these parts to fail?

              It doesn't sound like much, but I have dropped the subframe once before and it was intensive. I'd hate to do it again, but if I have to, I would like to do it ONCE more. Anything else I should consider?
              20% Accurate

              Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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                #8
                why drop the subframe? you don't have to to change cv and seals. I don't know about welding in eccentrics though, maybe you do for that.

                I know its not hard to change cv joints. we did new subframe bushings on my son's 86 325 and while we had it out, we did some other stuff and pulled the cv shafts and it was easy.

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                  #9
                  superj, the reason I decided I needed the weld in kit was to correct toe-in, as that is why I believe the CV failed, due to bad geometry?

                  I am running CSS 12mm risers and have dropped the frame before. A buddy let my use his empty garage and it went somewhat smooth. This time I will have to drop it on a sloped hill covered in gravel.
                  20% Accurate

                  Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You typically need to replace the wheel bearings when you remove the half shafts but as superj says, you can leave the subframe in place to do the CVs and you can leave the CV attached at the wheel end to replace the diff output seals. Those are extremely easy even working under the car. SOP is to use loctite blue on the shaft to output flange bolts or you will surely regret it
                    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                    Alice the Time Capsule
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                      #11
                      I understand the gravel, I do mine in my dirt/gravel/grass driveway. I just put a piece of plywood down and pull the car onto the plywood and go from there so I can use the jack. I put some 2x12s under the jackstands so they have a stable base

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                        #12
                        What I may end up doing is pulling the RTA from my parts car and swap bushing/brakes/and throw a new bearing at it.

                        The reason I thought I would drop the subframe was to weld in eccentrics to correct the toe-in issue. Do either of you guys know what area of the RTA is prone to bending? That way I can measure the one form the parts car. If it's straight I will probably not do the eccentrics.
                        20% Accurate

                        Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I cannot remember. I read about it on garagistic's website because they had those reinforcement parts on sale. but I really cannot remember because I never did that repair or had any type of problem like that in the past

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