Oil pan gasket replacement: looking for tips

[CharlieVu]

Hey guys,

Going to attempt my first oil pan gasket replacement this week. I’ve watched many videos and read a few good diy post. Just wanted to get some more tips and tricks before I attempt this. Things I’ve collected:
Oil
Oil filter
Victor cork/rubber gasket
Engine hoist
Jacks
Anything else I should replace while I’m down there?


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[zaq123]

Hey guys,

Going to attempt my first oil pan gasket replacement this week. I’ve watched many videos and read a few good diy post. Just wanted to get some more tips and tricks before I attempt this. Things I’ve collected:
Oil
Oil filter
Victor cork/rubber gasket
Engine hoist
Jacks
Anything else I should replace while I’m down there?


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I would remove the oil pump (3bolts) and the pressure valve, gave them good cleaning/inspection while you are there. I would also use paper gasket instead of cork (MTC makes one) and use Curil K2 for a good measure. Amazon has Curil K2 I think, good stuff, works well with paper gaskets, seals well, keep it in place while you are working and will make future disassembly easy as it never hardens. Good time to replace engine mounts too since you will be unbolting those. Clean the crap out of the oil pan, especially in the oil level sensor chamber.

[CharlieVu]

I would remove the oil pump (3bolts) and the pressure valve, gave them good cleaning/inspection while you are there. I would also use paper gasket instead of cork (MTC makes one) and use Curil K2 for a good measure. Amazon has Curil K2 I think, good stuff, works well with paper gaskets, seals well, keep it in place while you are working and will make future disassembly easy as it never hardens. Good time to replace engine mounts too since you will be unbolting those. Clean the crap out of the oil pan, especially in the oil level sensor chamber.

I’ve read the same, to stay away from cork. Figured a hybrid martial would work best and I’ve read people who have used the hybrid ones liked them a lot. I will definitely do some cleaning the next few days.


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[zaq123]

I’ve read the same, to stay away from cork. Figured a hybrid martial would work best and I’ve read people who have used the hybrid ones liked them a lot. I will definitely do some cleaning the next few days.


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I just hate cork as it swells up and breaks down overtime. I normally just lightly oil paper gaskets anywhere else (diff etc) as it works very well and oil helps the removal later. M20 block has two aluminum seal carriers front and back. Gasket crosses block/cover joints and I don't trust just an oil there, hence Curil K2.

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[jeffnhiscars]

Kuril 2 and paper is what I used and its as good as it gets IMO. If you happen to be doing a timing belt at the same time its a great oppty to replace the front main seal as well since that does typically damage the oil pan gasket.

[CharlieVu]

Kuril 2 and paper is what I used and its as good as it gets IMO. If you happen to be doing a timing belt at the same time its a great oppty to replace the front main seal as well since that does typically damage the oil pan gasket.

Thank you! I did the timing belt back in March but will look into the main seal. Don’t remember replacing that. Will get some kuril 2


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[Das Delfin]

I recently did mine with a harbor freight engine support bar, Toyota fipg, a jack and stands. I left my oil pump in place. You may have to lower the subframe slightly but I don't think I did. I used the support bar so I had more room to work underneath than a hoist would offer, which was helpful when guiding a pan with wet fipg up between the subframe and oil pump. You are going to need to unbolt the motor mounts to raise the engine to get more room, so you may as well replace those and their nuts. I didn't replace my tranny mounts (or even loosen them) but you could. You'll want to undo the clips for the fan shroud as well or your fan will prob break when you raise the motor

You'll want like 3 cans of brake clean and a buttload of shop towels as well as some e torx sockets for the piece that bolts into the tranny

You could clean out the oil pump filter screen while you're in there. If you use rtv or fipg let the motor sit for a whole day before adding oil or trying to start it. The toyota stuff I used says you can start the motor in 2 hours but I let it sit til the next day just to be safe.

It's a pain in the ass and takes forever but it's oddly satisfying that you only have to worry about one major thing the whole time

[CharlieVu]

I recently did mine with a harbor freight engine support bar, Toyota fipg, a jack and stands. I left my oil pump in place. You may have to lower the subframe slightly but I don't think I did. I used the support bar so I had more room to work underneath than a hoist would offer, which was helpful when guiding a pan with wet fipg up between the subframe and oil pump. You are going to need to unbolt the motor mounts to raise the engine to get more room, so you may as well replace those and their nuts. I didn't replace my tranny mounts (or even loosen them) but you could. You'll want to undo the clips for the fan shroud as well or your fan will prob break when you raise the motor

You'll want like 3 cans of brake clean and a buttload of shop towels as well as some e torx sockets for the piece that bolts into the tranny

You could clean out the oil pump filter screen while you're in there. If you use rtv or fipg let the motor sit for a whole day before adding oil or trying to start it. The toyota stuff I used says you can start the motor in 2 hours but I let it sit til the next day just to be safe.

It's a pain in the ass and takes forever but it's oddly satisfying that you only have to worry about one major thing the whole time

Thanks man! Yea dude I got it out finally and man I let it sit in a tub of purple power and hot water and then got to scrubbing. Ended up using all three brake fluids cans I had lying around and the oil just sediments just melted off. How did you apply the toyobond? Been reading people are using just a dab on the corners to keep it in place.


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[e30austin]

I always use BMW flange sealant (made by Loctite) in place of any BMW oil pan gasket. Never have any leaks.

83 19 0 404 517 - one tube will do the job, no problem, and you'll have enough left over to do your differential cover, or something.

Best,
e30austin

[zwill23]

Same with me, I've always used RTV "The Right Stuff" and have never had an issue with my oil pan or rear diff cover.

It's so much easier than trying to line up the cork gasket

[packratbimmer]

If you find that lowering the subframe is helpful, find some longer bolts so you can keep the subframe in place - just lower. Remove a pair or bolts at a time and replace with the long ones. Works great for clutch jobs as well.

[CharlieVu]

Man that was fun.... got it all back together. Going to let us sit and mate over night and retighten in the morning. Hopefully no more leaks!


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[digger]

are you guys nipping it up lightly, waiting for full cure then final torque?

[15Michaeljoseph]

I recently did mine with a harbor freight engine support bar, Toyota fipg, a jack and stands. I left my oil pump in place. You may have to lower the subframe slightly but I don't think I did. I used the support bar so I had more room to work underneath than a hoist would offer, which was helpful when guiding a pan with wet fipg up between the subframe and oil pump. You are going to need to unbolt the motor mounts to raise the engine to get more room, so you may as well replace those and their nuts. I didn't replace my tranny mounts (or even loosen them) but you could. You'll want to undo the clips for the fan shroud as well or your fan will prob break when you raise the motor

You'll want like 3 cans of brake clean and a buttload of shop towels as well as some e torx sockets for the piece that bolts into the tranny

You could clean out the oil pump filter screen while you're in there. If you use rtv or fipg let the motor sit for a whole day before adding oil or trying to start it. The toyota stuff I used says you can start the motor in 2 hours but I let it sit til the next day just to be safe.

It's a pain in the ass and takes forever but it's oddly satisfying that you only have to worry about one major thing the whole time

Just curious-- how is this holding up?

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[Das Delfin]

are you guys nipping it up lightly, waiting for full cure then final torque?

Well, as per RTV instructions you would wait 1 hour before final torque, but I used Toyota FIPG which allows full torque right away.

Just curious-- how is this holding up?

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it's great! Finally got the oil pan on with a new production paper gasket!