Low revs after timing belt change

[skismeno]

Hoping for some help.

Just changed my timing belt, tensioner and water pump on my e30 that has been sitting in storage for 5 years.

I managed to successfully change everything;got the motor back together (no parts left over .. winning!!) and checked compression (195 to 200 psi per cylinder) before changing oil and dumping fuel and refilling.

She started pretty much first start but I can’t get the revs up past 1000rpm no matter how much I hold down the accelerator.

Any suggestions to diagnose what could be causing the problem?

I’ve taken the radiator and fan off and hand cracked to TDC. Timing marks on the covers look ok? Is this a fair guide or should I bite the bullet and take everything off again?

Any ideas?

[jeffnhiscars]

I'd look at the injectors. After sitting that long it would be uncommon for them to operate at full spec.

[101]

Check the large rubber air hose between the AFM and the throttle body as well. They get brittle and can tear in hidden places when reinstalling them.

[skismeno]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

I ended up taking the timing belt cover off and confirmed that the timing marks are spot on. Relieved and can proceed with troubleshooting without second guessing.

Found some articles on removing intake manifold to get to fuel rail / injectors.

Next weekend’s project all locked in!!

[george graves]

A car sitting for 5 years might have 2-3 issues at once. And when you have more then one thing wrong, that's when it can be a challenge to resolve.

change fuel filter
check engine grounds
Water/corrosion in the cap/rotor?
Inspect the coil, make sure the connections are ok
CPS cause a ton of problems, and get funk/old/crust/brittle with age. Ebay ones suck. I'd trusted a know good unit over an ebay unit. New is like $60-80? Blunttech.com is good.

Unplug and replug everything...looking for anything "green" on the contacts - that's copper that is oxidized. Including the c101 on the firewall.

When I bought my e30, the seller was sorely disappointed in the performance. He didn't know it was a poor connection on a fuel injector. So I got it for a song. Drove it home, plugged it in, and vrooom!

Good luck!

[skismeno]

Quick update.

After changing many a vaccum hose and anything I could reach - turns out that the issue was related to the ignition timing. Turned the distributor slightly to advance the timing and she roared into life!

On to the next challenge. Overheating.

Was trying to bleed the cooling system and I noticed that the the exhaust manifold was glowing red hot. Have never seen this before. I’m suspecting some blockages in the cooling system preventing water circulating around the block. Has anyone experienced this before?

Have ordered a coolant system ‘flushing gun’ to see if this helps.

One step forward. Two steps back...

[digger]

Glowing exhaust at idle is usually due to incorrect ignition timing, specifically not enough advance and the charge is still "burning" as it blows down into the manifold. An excessively lean or rich mixtures that slows the burn rates on a couple of cylinders can produce the same effect.

[skismeno]

Thanks for the quick reply.

That makes sense then with the adjustment of the distributor. Didn’t set the timing - just adjusted to see if that was the cause. Was planning to borrow a timing gun to set the timing correctly.

Will let you know how I go. 🤞🏻

[digger]

What engine is this? B23 ?

[skismeno]

It’s an Australian delivered 323i. So I think m20b23?

[lukeADE335i]

When you set the timing, just remember that the advance isn't set at idle, like 99.5% of other cars - it's at something like 2000 or 2200rpm from memory. It has been a decade since I had a 323i, so the old memory is a bit foggy! :)

I really loved mine - they're quick, and highly underrated vs the 325i. The L-Jet can be very reliable providing all the vacuum hoses are good & the AFM is working ok.

[skismeno]

You are spot on. 19 degrees at 3000rpm is what’s on the sticker.

Have given it a go tonight but I can’t seem to adkust this correctly.

I bought a timing light and it allows me to adjust the degrees. Am assuming I just set this to 19 - get someone to idle to 3k and the mark on the vibration damper should line up as per the attached picture. I’m about an inch to the right of that line and can’t turn the distributor any more.

Am I using the timing light correctly?