I have reviewed all the electrical diagrams and verified the correct operation of both sending units. I have also verified the wiring between the sending units themselves and the wiring from both sending units to where the wires terminate in the harness connecting to the fuel gauge. I have also tested ohmage and resistance for all of the above.
I have even gone to the point of bridging the 64ohm fuel gauge resistor inside of the cluster with a 47ohm resistor to halve it. Then I tried a straight bridge to bring the resistance down to O.
The only thing that gets closest to representing what is actually in tank is when I disconnect driver side sending unit and short it, reverting to using only the passenger side sending unit which is not accurate or going to provide me desirable fuel gauge behavior. If I short the passenger side I get the same reading on the gauge as when I short the driver side.
Also, in the wiring diagrams I did notice that there is a T for Pin Number 4 (main passenger sending unit) over by the OBC where the OBC just reads the resistance to calculate fuel data. It does not interfere with anything and I'm not seeing any resistance with everything, with the OBC unplugged, or any combination thereof. I disconnected the OBC just to see if it made any difference. There was no difference.
The code for the cluster matches up to the year and make of my car. I even forked out 400 dollars for a new driver side sending unit and 200 for a spare/tester cluster because Im literally losing my shit trying to figure this out. I had a brand new passenger side sending unit in storage for 15 years or I would have bought one of those too. Both clusters are both exhibiting the exact same behavior no matter how I alter the resistance.
I'm about to run all new wiring which will bypass the OBC. Soldering all connections at the sending units and cutting the old wires from the back of the harness and crimping into the pigtails. I can think of no other option even though I've tested and verified the wires and sending units in the car.
This should be such an easy fix! There's really nothing to this system. I've got a long drive ahead of me tomorrow maybe it'll hit me on the road after some rest. Before I lose it completely I am going to bed. It's 2AM. Good night and thanks in advance for any advice that doesn't include setting this car on fire because that's what I want to do right about now! lol
I have even gone to the point of bridging the 64ohm fuel gauge resistor inside of the cluster with a 47ohm resistor to halve it. Then I tried a straight bridge to bring the resistance down to O.
The only thing that gets closest to representing what is actually in tank is when I disconnect driver side sending unit and short it, reverting to using only the passenger side sending unit which is not accurate or going to provide me desirable fuel gauge behavior. If I short the passenger side I get the same reading on the gauge as when I short the driver side.
Also, in the wiring diagrams I did notice that there is a T for Pin Number 4 (main passenger sending unit) over by the OBC where the OBC just reads the resistance to calculate fuel data. It does not interfere with anything and I'm not seeing any resistance with everything, with the OBC unplugged, or any combination thereof. I disconnected the OBC just to see if it made any difference. There was no difference.
The code for the cluster matches up to the year and make of my car. I even forked out 400 dollars for a new driver side sending unit and 200 for a spare/tester cluster because Im literally losing my shit trying to figure this out. I had a brand new passenger side sending unit in storage for 15 years or I would have bought one of those too. Both clusters are both exhibiting the exact same behavior no matter how I alter the resistance.
I'm about to run all new wiring which will bypass the OBC. Soldering all connections at the sending units and cutting the old wires from the back of the harness and crimping into the pigtails. I can think of no other option even though I've tested and verified the wires and sending units in the car.
This should be such an easy fix! There's really nothing to this system. I've got a long drive ahead of me tomorrow maybe it'll hit me on the road after some rest. Before I lose it completely I am going to bed. It's 2AM. Good night and thanks in advance for any advice that doesn't include setting this car on fire because that's what I want to do right about now! lol
Comment