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Which Tie Rod Puller?

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    #31
    Originally posted by bme30 View Post
    Me want. Who sells it cheap?
    Originally posted by Matt-B
    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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      #32
      +1 with the hammer method.
      -1988 BMW 325is - Sold
      -1991 BMW 535i - Parted out
      -1994 BMW 530i/5 - Sold
      -1970 Chevy C10/LWB
      -1973 Chevy C10/SWB stepside
      -1984 Chevy C10/LWB
      -2008 R56 MCS - Dead
      -2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD-OR DCLB

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        #33
        I'm having issues removing the control arm ball joint to the strut housing....will the same tool work on that?
        1997 Artic Silver M3
        CES GT4094r 651hp/615tq @ 24 psi

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          #34


          After 5-7 hits, Voila...!!!

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            #35
            Last edited by bme30; 05-01-2011, 08:46 AM.

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              #36
              ^^ that's BS. I do that every time, and it is not that easy.

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                #37
                Well, all of these tools/videos, etc, show just removing the tie rods and I didn't have any trouble removing those from the spindle....it's the control arm ball joint that I can't get to budge....I'm going to buy a small sledge and git it a couple whacks, but I'm doubtful it will work.
                1997 Artic Silver M3
                CES GT4094r 651hp/615tq @ 24 psi

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by iamcreepingdeath View Post
                  ^^ that's BS. I do that every time, and it is not that easy.
                  I had the same stubborn ball joints, and was very skeptical about this trick, but i tried a few whack with 4lb sledge hammer and succeed on both tie rod ends and control arms ball joints.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by Alexis Jung View Post
                    Well, all of these tools/videos, etc, show just removing the tie rods and I didn't have any trouble removing those from the spindle....it's the control arm ball joint that I can't get to budge....I'm going to buy a small sledge and git it a couple whacks, but I'm doubtful it will work.
                    Go get one and hit them precisely, i did and got them all done. :up:
                    PS: Do not hit the "male" part of the joint, hit the "female" part of the knuckle arm.

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                      #40
                      Get this kit and you will not have problems with pretty much any front end work; especially on most Euro cars...



                      You can score the kit for less than a $100 if you watch for deals and promo's.

                      We've used my set on over a dozen front end rebuilds on BMWs, a couple Volvos and two LR Disco steering linkage rebuilds. Great kit and very versatile.

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                        #41
                        I use an 8lb Jackson sledge and pickle fork but majority of the time I don't even need the fork. just compress the strut by placing a jack underneath the spindle. loosen the fastening nut and hammer on the stud. should break loose and you can pull it out by hand. don't worry about mangling the nut as you're suppose to replace it everytime the tie rod comes off. I've never ripped a boot that wasn't already ripped.


                        Originally posted by Ryan...
                        It now emits a beautiful blue-ish yellow/green smoke from the exhaust?? No idea what would cause that color, but I assume its good.

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                          #42


                          60 bucks front end service. pickle fork suck because it can damage ball joint boot real easy.

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                            #43
                            I want to thank you all and advise others that ALL YOU NEED IS A 4 LB HAMMER TO DO THE JOB!!! The ball joint fell out on its own within 4 - 5 good hits....not even full swings, just contact. I'm going to return the $70 set to harbor freight that I bought.

                            Now, to get the threaded collar off the strut and get my passenger side tie rod off..
                            1997 Artic Silver M3
                            CES GT4094r 651hp/615tq @ 24 psi

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                              #44
                              :up:

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by immajackuup View Post


                                60 bucks front end service. pickle fork suck because it can damage ball joint boot real easy.
                                Got that whole kit from Harbor Freight for $5. I'm winning lol.

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