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"CHECK" on cluster flashes, no check panel lights and everything works?

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    "CHECK" on cluster flashes, no check panel lights and everything works?

    Each time I start my car ('91 325i), the "CHECK" light on the cluster begins flashing while cranking, but no check panel lights come on, and I have to press the check panel button to make it stop. I have oil and coolant, I can't find any burnt out bulbs, and I get the notification even if lights are turned off. It started a week ago, after driving a few minutes I would get the flash, but it was intermittent. within a few days it has escalated into an every-time thing, and like I said, it starts as soon as I start cranking. Its not the normal brake light behavior, that goes off at the touch of the brake pedal, doesn't require a button press. I do think that my oil level sensor may have failed.



    I did repair a broken solder joint on my check panel a month ago, to correct a false alert for burnt bulb, but the repair fixed the issue and everything has been fine with it, so I am not sure if they are related.


    Anyone have any ideas what is going on? Thanks!
    sigpic
    1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

    WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

    #2
    The check light on the cluster is supposed to go on after you start the car to remind you to check the overhead panel for any broken light. It should go off after you hit the brake. You can start the car with your foot on the brake to eliminate this annoying light or take the bulk out of the cluster. Or put a piece of tape over it. Your car will not explode if you do nothing so don't worry about it.

    Comment


      #3
      ^^^ I know what you are referring to, that is normal, but this is different. Even starting the car with the foot on the brake, the light starts flashing immediately upon turning the key, and I have to press the button on the check panel to make the flashing stop, not merely touch the brake pedal after starting like normal, like it behaved up until this week.

      Like I said, I am pretty sure my oil level sensor has failed, I checked my oil recently and the level was below where it normally alerts me on the check panel (high mile, daily driven car so it uses a bit of oil). I'm just not sure that what I am experiencing is a symptom of that sensor failure, don't want to throw parts at it. I think that sensor is 3 wires IIRC, which is more than you would need for a simple switch, so I think testing that is what I am going to research next, but I suspect I'm barking up the wrong tree there.

      Thanks.
      sigpic
      1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

      WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

      Comment


        #4
        Does the oil light come on when you press the test button on the check panel?

        I suspect your brake light switch has failed.
        Originally posted by codyep3
        I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
        2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
        1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
        1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
        2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
        2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
        2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
        2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
        2010 F650gs twin
        2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
          Does the oil light come on when you press the test button on the check panel?

          I suspect your brake light switch has failed.



          Neither oil nor coolant lights illuminate when pressing the test button, I don't believe they ever did, even back when both were known to work (low coolant light alerted me to a TB heater leak once), though my memory could be wrong. I had assumed that to be normal, that only the light indicators illuminated on test. I was just working on another E30 today too, I wish I would have thought to see how that check panel behaves.


          Brake lights work fine, switch isn't even that old, replaced it a couple years ago. I do still get the brake light warning illuminated upon starting the car, but pressing the brake pedal only turns that check panel light off, the CHECK continues flashing in the cluster until I press the test button.



          I haven't had time to look up an oil level sensor test yet, might take a few days to find a test procedure and perform it.
          sigpic
          1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

          WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

          Comment


            #6
            For most E30s, this is how your check panel should illuminate (borrowed image)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Vincent Brick View Post
              Neither oil nor coolant lights illuminate when pressing the test button, I don't believe they ever did, even back when both were known to work (low coolant light alerted me to a TB heater leak once), though my memory could be wrong. I had assumed that to be normal, that only the light indicators illuminated on test. I was just working on another E30 today too, I wish I would have thought to see how that check panel behaves.


              Brake lights work fine, switch isn't even that old, replaced it a couple years ago. I do still get the brake light warning illuminated upon starting the car, but pressing the brake pedal only turns that check panel light off, the CHECK continues flashing in the cluster until I press the test button.

              I haven't had time to look up an oil level sensor test yet, might take a few days to find a test procedure and perform it.

              All the lights are supposed to be on when the test button is pressed. The button is there to confirm the lights in the check panel, work.
              Originally posted by codyep3
              I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
              2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
              1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
              1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
              2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
              2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
              2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
              2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
              2010 F650gs twin
              2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
                All the lights are supposed to be on when the test button is pressed. The button is there to confirm the lights in the check panel, work.

                So that leads me to believe that there is an error in my check panel itself, that the coolant and oil lights are not illuminating when they should be. But even if they were alerting me, its still going to be an issue because it would seem that one of those lights are being triggered despite the fact the motor has plenty of oil and coolant.


                Good info, but its going to require more digging.
                sigpic
                1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

                WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

                Comment


                  #9
                  A faulty coolant level sensor would do that
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                  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
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                    #10
                    Next free time I get I will be looking up test procedures for both sensors and going to town on 'em.
                    sigpic
                    1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

                    WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Coolant sensor is a known issue. Pull the connector off the sensor in the reservoir, and put a wire jumper in it.
                      Originally posted by codyep3
                      I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
                      2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
                      1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
                      1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
                      2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
                      2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
                      2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
                      2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
                      2010 F650gs twin
                      2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

                      Comment


                        #12
                        These sensors are cheap. I would replace all of them. They are all about 30 years old by now.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Vincent Brick View Post
                          Next free time I get I will be looking up test procedures for both sensors and going to town on 'em.

                          Except I never got a chance, the day after this last post the problem went away completely, took me a day to even notice I didn't have to press the button. I guess I will revisit it if the issue reoccurs.
                          sigpic
                          1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

                          WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I have seen these check panels fail. They have several transistors that control the LED indicators. These fail over time and cause them to be stuck on or stuck off.

                            Same thing happens on the SI board, causing the bulbs to illuminate with the key off, causing battery drain.
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                              #15
                              Just wanted to come back and say that I eventually determined the cause of this to be a combination of slightly wonky oil level sender which now seems to stay triggered even with oil higher on the dipstick, and bad circuit for the oil level light in the check panel itself, likely another bad solder joint. Just means my oil level will be kept a bit higher now, I'm ok with that. :) Thanks for the help.
                              sigpic
                              1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

                              WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

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