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Which Tie Rod Puller?

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    #16
    I just use penetrating oil and a hammer. Replaced a bent tie rod the other day no problem. The hammer wasnt really necessary, but I dont care.

    What day at the shop would be complete without the hammer making at least one appearance?

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      #17
      Originally posted by kencopperwheat View Post
      word. you have to whack the strut housing a couple of times before hitting the tie rod.
      Instead, not before.
      Current:

      BMW 320i 2d 2.0 m20 -88
      BMW 325i Cabriolet 2.5 m50 -88
      BMW 316i touring 1.6 m40 -90
      BMW 320i 4d 2,2 m54 -01

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        #18
        The only thing that I don't like about hammering it out is that I can't get enough of a backswing to really hit that thing like I want to. Turning the wheel all the way to one side helps but it does not really give me enough comfortable clearence without the fear of hitting the body.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Jscotty View Post
          but it does not really give me enough comfortable clearence without the fear of hitting the body.
          Originally posted by mikeedler View Post
          or your hitting the wrong place.
          Current:

          BMW 320i 2d 2.0 m20 -88
          BMW 325i Cabriolet 2.5 m50 -88
          BMW 316i touring 1.6 m40 -90
          BMW 320i 4d 2,2 m54 -01

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            #20
            Another thing is the style of whacking. You are better off hitting with a "pop" rather than a "thunk"...so not follow through, see?

            It is also easier if you start off with a pry bar (and someone else prying) between the ball joint and the subframe/control arm to apply some tension on it before you hit it. If you do this, PUT THE NUT BACK ON a few threads, otherwise, that sucker is gonna fly.

            Luke

            Closing SOON!
            "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

            Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

            Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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              #21
              Pry bar applying pressure + sharp hammer blows work great as luke said.

              I just bought this one:


              works perfect on tie rods and outer ball joints are a bit of a squeeze but it works.

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                #22
                I'll be doing this soon, so just to be clear:

                I'm going to be hitting whatever the tie-rod is connected to outward, or perpendicular to the direction the car is facing if the wheels are straight?

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                  #23
                  Holy necrothread batman.
                  When you see it, You'll understand. All you need to do is go down with the tie rod. regardless of wheel direction. I prefer pickle forks. As I'd just rather replace the tie rod if I'm taking it off, and it's stuck on there.


                  Leave Me Transaction Feedback

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                    #24
                    I've used pickle forks for years, even got a pickle fork attachment for my air hammer.

                    But the ONE TIME I didn't want to jack something up, I bought the tool pictured in previous posts. It WORKS. It's WORTH the $$.
                    Cuts the time, not the boot.
                    Slicktop City!

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                      #25
                      I can both respect the tool, and the owner, for increased laziness and ease.
                      Might have to get one eventually


                      Leave Me Transaction Feedback

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                        #26
                        ive not had a problem with the hammer method.
                        My feedback:
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=186328

                        http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74911

                        Instagram:
                        @gears_n_glory

                        @functionmotorsports

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                          #27

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by bme30 View Post
                            That tool looks ideal.


                            I've had the best luck whacking the strut housing just forward of where the tie rod inserts. Spray the area area with a rust-busting solvent first and don't mash the threads... Use a brass mallet.

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                              #29
                              I use the hammer method. I've gone at it for a while before, but it always comes through in the end. Suppose it's not a bit deal b/c I'm only down there a couple times a year.
                              Originally posted by z31maniac
                              I just hate everyone.

                              No need for discretion.

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                                #30
                                anti-sieze things upon installation.

                                (make it easier for yourself or future owner down the road)
                                -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

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