Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rear subframe and subframe bushing removal and install

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Rear subframe and subframe bushing removal and install

    Put this DIY together today, since I wasn't to pleased with the existing guides.

    Supplementary guide for trailing arm bushings: https://www.rtsauto.com/the-easy-way-to-remove-and-install-e30-trailing-arm-bushings/ This is a step by step DIY on how to remove the whole E30 rear subframe assembly, and how to remove and install stock and aftermarket subframe bushings: 1. Put car on 4 jack stands, in the back since you will be removing the subframe, the
    Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

    Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

    #2
    Thanks man I'm gonna be doing this soon and will be using this to guide the way
    M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by noid View Post
      Put this DIY together today, since I wasn't to pleased with the existing guides.

      http://www.rtsauto.com/e30-rear-subf...l-and-install/
      Thanks noid for the great DIY! Very helpful instructions and clear photos. I'm about to take on this same project, possibly as early as this weekend. I've got a set of AKG performance/street urethane subframe bushings ready to go, but since I'll have the whole subframe out, I decided to replace the RTABs and diff mount as well. The one aspect of this project that has me concerned is the removal of the old subframe bushings. This is my first time tackling this kind of repair, so I must admit the diagram of your home made press is a little unclear to me. Do you possibly have any photos of it? I don't own a vice and really don't' want to spend the money on one at this time (if I don't have to), so also wondered if you have any other strategies for removing the bushings?
      Last edited by KAR; 04-10-2013, 07:03 AM.
      KAR
      '90 325i sedan

      Comment


        #4
        Great DIY! If I decide to tackle this project on my own I will definatly be usimg this. I'm still leaning to having a shop do it but with this write up I may be able to tackle it.
        TWELVE HAMMERS



        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by KAR View Post
          Thanks noid for the great DIY! Very helpful instructions and clear photos. I'm about to take on this same project, possibly as early as this weekend. I've got a set of AKG performance/street urethane subframe bushings ready to go, but since I'll have the whole subframe out, I decided to replace the RTABs and diff mount as well. The one aspect of this project that has me concerned is the removal of the old subframe bushings. This is my first time tackling this kind of repair, so I must admit the diagram of your home made press is a little unclear to me. Do you possibly have any photos of it? I don't own a vice and really don't' want to spend the money on one at this time (if I don't have to), so also wondered if you have any other strategies for removing the bushings?
          I would recommend investing in a vise, it is hands down the best tool I have bought myself. I don't even know how I ever lived without one. I recommend getting as heavy duty as you can, I have used my vise in place of a press many times and it has worked like a champ. I have a rigid f60 which is forged and can handle an advertised 75,000 psi of pressure, so it can handle anything I need to do on an E30 in terms of pressing stuff in and out. New the industrial grade vises are expensive but you can usually find them used for under $100 on craigslist or similar. Any decent non industrial vise should be able to press in/out both the rear subframe bushings and trailing arm bushings. I would recommend an industrial sized vise for the diff mount and front control arms (if you ever do those).

          Without a vise you can burn the subframe bushings out which will leave a metal sleeve that you can cut out with a sawzall. Use a MAPP torch not a propane torch to do it, it works X100 faster and MAPP gas is readily available and as cheap as propane, just make sure to get the appropriate trigger. A vise makes it painless to push a new OEM bushing in. Most aftermarket bushings go in by hand.

          You dont really need a vise for the rear trailing arm bushings.

          I covered that process here:
          My way is not only faster then most traditional ways, but its also makes the trailing arm bushing come out without much resistance. Things you will need: 30mm socket Bigger C-clamp or PREFERABLY a vise Box cutter KY lube (not required, but if you have it I recommend using it) First Cut off the


          Replace the Vise with a large enough C-clamp and you are set.


          I don't have a picture of the setup on the vise mainly because I was wrangling the subframe myself, so I had no hands for a camera. However, it is fairly easy. You place the subframe in the vise, and on one side of the bushing you put a 1 1/2 pipe, and on the other end you put two normal sockets on the tip on the subframe tube. When you start closing the jaws of the vise the pipe will go into the subframe tube pushing the bushing out in between the sockets.
          Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

          Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

          Comment


            #6
            thanks this write up helped. this seemed like it was going to be a pain in the ass but wasnt. real easy job

            Comment


              #7
              Is there anyway to do this without dropping the entire rear subframe?

              Also, are there any other jobs worth doing "while in there"?

              BTW - What is recommended for the new bushings? OEM? Poly? Just curious.
              Last edited by estoguy; 10-17-2013, 04:47 PM.
              Estoguy
              1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"

              Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by noid View Post
                Put this DIY together today, since I wasn't to pleased with the existing guides.

                http://www.rtsauto.com/e30-rear-subf...l-and-install/
                Dude, this looks EPIC! Thanks for taking the time to put this together! :up:

                Comment


                  #9
                  This is a nice guide but its way easier to do it with the sir tools master kit I have no need to remove anything and you can be done in an hr or so for both sides if not less and my rental only costs 55 just an fyi
                  Originally posted by bmwm42
                  PNW vulture pm me for parts
                  Strategic nw e30 command

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hey bmwm42...

                    This one? http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm

                    Anyone know if there is a place in Ontario, Canada that would rent such a tool???
                    Last edited by estoguy; 10-18-2013, 11:04 AM.
                    Estoguy
                    1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"

                    Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Nope its the bmw sir 3026 master tool set
                      Originally posted by bmwm42
                      PNW vulture pm me for parts
                      Strategic nw e30 command

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Another method for removing one stuck side: Such a lil B, but I avoided crushing the hard line. Front jack wheel on the subframe cross member. Wood hit the boxy area of the body. Rear of the jack on blocks. The lag bolt, for me, kept falling out when pounding it down from the top, and cracked the aluminum inner sleeve of the bushing when I tried to thread it in further.

                        Last edited by eduTechnic; 02-16-2014, 12:17 AM.
                        Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by eduTechnic View Post
                          Another method for removing one stuck side: Such a lil B, but I avoided crushing the hard line. Front jack wheel on the subframe cross member. Wood hit the boxy area of the body. Rear of the jack on blocks. The lag bolt, for me, kept falling out when pounding it down from the top, and cracked the aluminum inner sleeve of the bushing when I tried to thread it in further.

                          ^^^lol
                          555Garage - Kingston, PA

                          '13 BMW e70 X5 35d
                          '95 BMW e34 525i
                          '92 BMW e30 325i S52 Vert (Quade the Vert)
                          '92 Range Rover Classic
                          '90 Range Rover Classic
                          '89 BMW e30 325i Coupe (The DIRTY30)
                          '81 VW MK1 Rabbit Caddy Diesel
                          '76 Honda CB550K Cafe/Brat
                          '67 Pontiac LeMans
                          '24 Model T Depot Hack
                          ....And a bunch of Motobecane, Puch, Garelli, Batavus and Honda 49cc-78cc Mopeds...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Klug View Post
                            ^^^lol
                            LOL! This is not sketchy at all....

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Just used this method to press the bushings out of my subframe after a few hours of tinkering with other methods. Thanks for the write-up!

                              '91 "318is" slick top M50 turbo
                              '97 Dodge 3500 12v Cummins
                              '12 Mini Cooper S
                              '89 318i Chump Car Project

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X