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Took me and 2 others with massive breaker bars to get that crank bolt off.
then again, the shop that the PO took the car to loved to over tighten every single bolt they saw. Except the cylinder head bolts, 2 were hard to loosen (as it should being 30nm, 90 + 90 torque), the rest came off with some effort, but not even close to the first two (suspected incorrectly torqued down head bolts).
Replace the transmission mounts while you are there as well.
Glad I had the impact. I was on the fence about getting it and am really glad I did.
Got the fuel tank out and ordered new rubber hoses. May or may not have gotten the correct ones. Real OEM was a bit vague.
Dropped the VC and intake mani for powdercoat.
Took a closer look at the 5 speed I got. It's an E trans with the dual mass flywheel. Did some reading here, appears it should work fine with a Euro 323i bearing. Ordered a fancy RHD flywheel. It was cheaper than OEM.
How’s the project coming? I ordered the same RHD flywheel (after some paypal probs that I think others have had) as well as a stock sachs clutch kit. What color did you specify for the powdercoating?
Good stuff! Nice access for the load leveler with no accessories or manifold. Im curious what your opinion of the in situ reassembly will be.
Aftermarket starter? I do suggest testing its engagement with the RHD flywheel before you get too far to make sure you are comfortable with it. In hindsight I do think a very light amount of dry lube on starter gear would not be a bad thing.
Aftermarket starter? I do suggest testing its engagement with the RHD flywheel before you get too far to make sure you are comfortable with it. In hindsight I do think a very light amount of dry lube on starter gear would not be a bad thing.
Well I should have paid more attention to this.
Attempted to crank it for the first time last night.
Sounds like the Bendix gear is hitting the flywheel.
Makes a couple good hard whacking sounds when I turn the key.
Turned engine over to try it in other spots with no change.
Need to pull the reman starter and install the original.
Good thing is I don't have everything back in the car.
Bad thing is I don't think the trans had threaded holes so I need to figure out how to hold the nut.
Woodriff key does not have to come out, the seal rides on a thicker part of the crank snout. Don't forget the oil pump drive seal while you are in there (same part number as the cam seal).
I made that tool out of a scrap piece of 1/2" aluminum and a band saw, use and loan it to my friends all the time. Since you motor is in the car, you can wrap the tool with some towels and let it rest against a frame rail.
Pulled starter. Looks identical to the original.
Bench tested both and they are working.
The Bendix engagement on the original starter is more solid and it extends slightly further.
Installed the original and still not working.
Revd my pics. Flywheel is on correctly. I check the teeth engagement with the original auto part and it matched.
Not sure what the issue is.
I'm going to pull it again and see if the sheet metal spacer piece got out of alignment and isn't allowing the starter to sit high enough.
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