1986 325iX 3.1L Stroker + Turbo

[downforce22]

Glad you got it sorted!

For start up cold that isn't too bad, warmed up it would be too rich. Does it seem rich at all loads? you can adjust the required fuel if so

If the jumpers on the board are set for vTPS and you are running the stock TPS it will creep, you can re-jumper for the stock one or install a variable one if you have one

FYI, if it is set for a variable one and you are running a stock TPS, on full throttle(~70ish+ %) it short the vRef and reset the ECU and the car will cutoff and come back when you let off the throttle

Perfect, thanks Keith! Thats exactly what I needed to know

My req fuel was probably too high, but I am going to keep it where it is right now and just tune.

I think I have a spare vtps I will try to hook up, but yes it will creep up and then when I was trying to calibrate it, it resets the ecu and cuts off like you described. I suspected that might be it.

Now when I install the Vtps, do I still need to cut the wiring, or can I keep the wiring the same?

EDIT: I think I found my answer on the tech. I really hate cutting wiring though...

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98055&page=1

Also taken from diypnp site:

TPS / Idle Air Control / Acceleration Enrichments

This model does not have a variable TPS, rather an on/off style. As a result the IAC type will need to be set to "PWM Warmup" as well as the standard Accel Enrichments (not Enhanced) used.

Until a variable TPS is added, TPS SIG from the Main Board will need to be jumpered to Ground with a 1k Ohm resistor to prevent the TPS signal from gradually floating higher and possibly accidentally triggering flood clear mode.

The addition of a variable TPS will allow the use of Closed Loop Idle Control as well as Enhanced Acceleration Enrichments as both of these features look to the TPS signal for feedback. If you add a variable TPS, pin 52 connects to pin 1 (brown / blue wire) on the factory TPS wiring, and pin 53 connects to pin 3 (brown / black wire). The brown center wire of the TPS connector is grounded. We are not aware of any off the shelf TPS that matches the connector and pinout, so you will need to do some wire splicing.

http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/b55/usdm-bmw-325-8792-m20b25-mt.html

[tschultz]

Cool that you have been making progress on this. I'm sure the warm weather has helped!

[downforce22]

The daily got some love. Apparently the old windshield seal was folded underneath and caused rust to form under the cowl, both in the corners and center near the wiper arm. The paint was pulling up from the metal and I knew it was bad. I didn't know there were rust holes underneath. So when I went to get a new windshield I was surprised to see terrible rust. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.









A donor 325 gave its cowl to the old girl and some new paint ended with this. What is an e30 with new glass like to drive? Amazing! No glare!

[downforce22]

Really interesting video I found on the ebay turbos. Looks like they do advertise the measurements on ebay but the housings don't match the size. Its not really a surprise when you can get this turbo for under $200.



From an ebay ad I found, I am 99% sure this is the turbo I have and like the video, it is also the JDM Sport 'T70' with divided exhaust housing.



T70 Turbocharger
Condition - Brand New!
Manufacturer - JDM Sport
Application
Ideal for large (3.0L-6.0L) displacement engines
Features
Stage 4 turbo capable of 300-500 HP
Capable of 25-35 PSI output at peak power performance
Wet float bearing
External wastegate
Compressor
Inlet = 4"
Intake (ID / OD) = 2" / 2.5"
Inducer = 56.2 MM
Exducer = 72.9 MM
Trim = 59
A/R = 0.70
Turbine
Outlet = 2.5"
Turbo flange = T3 [twin entry divided flange]
Downpipe flange = 2.5" V-band
Inducer = 73.9 MM
Exducer = 58.3 MM
Trim = 62
A/R = 0.84
Center Section
Oil cool system
Oil feed = T3
Oil return = T3

Looking at turbo sizes, this neat size calls it out as the same size as the TO4E 57 trim or Garrett GT3037.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/TURBO/tmodels.html

[AWDBOB]

Don't use it! It's not worth it! Turbo blows, you lose oil pressure, and spin bearings. You can get a used Garrett 3076 or 3071 for next to nothing anymore.

[King Mufasa]

I think he'll know if it blows.. Or drops oil pressure.

[AWDBOB]

I will never understand. The E30 community is one of the most educated I've been a part of, but for some reason it's the only community where it's okay to run eBay turbos (besides the Honda crowd, and maybe the driftboy 240 crowd). I know multiple locals who had seals let go during a pull and wiped out their bottom end. Why chance it? The shitty transient response alone makes it not worth it.

At least run a $200 HX35 and rebuild it yourself for $30.

[King Mufasa]

Large part of this community are young men and women (still students) looking to better their car at a low cost $$. Everybody here has the right to exercise their path they choose.

PO if you are going for it just try not to exceed its limitation like other fools do.

[downforce22]

Here are a few pictures from the annual Ice Gymkhana with a couple other iXers.









I also got a few brochures of the early model cars and saw a few interesting differences.



The 325i Allrad is the German version. The 325iX with X-traction is the English version.



Notice the German one was printed in 1/1985 while the english was printed 2/1986. My car is older than this english brochure as the vin calls out 11/1985 production date. Also, below is another one I found online printed 2/86 in German. Note, this brochure was PRINTED in January of 85. That means the car had to be in production sometime in 1984!!






The english article calls it the X-Traction system. Who came up with that? Either way the next section calls it both the 325i 4 wheel drive (VIN Tag on my car is 325i btw) and the 325iX in the next sentence.





The english article calling out the 3.64 final drive.



Here are the official 0-60 times and fuel economy figures. Notice the catalytic model is way down on economy, down from almost 27 mpg at 120 kph (74 mph) to 24 mpg with just the cat!



And the official weight of the car listed at 1255 kg in base trim with 75 kg driver for the 2 door! That is 2767 lb! Now I want to check it officially on a scale, but that is an amazing weight savings over the stock iX. Almost 250 pounds and almost 100 pounds lighter than an '88 325is. 10 lb/hp should be easy at 2800 pounds!

[downforce22]

She runs alright now and I have been tuning to get it closer. I am at a happy medium now. Here are my fuel and spark maps. I based my spark off of tinkerputz's 3.1L stroker located here:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=265471

Compared to Tink's ignition map:


I seem to have a slight misfire at idle, any ideas what it could be? Do I need more advance?

[downforce22]

I got the variable TPS hooked up tonight. I didn't have to splice any wires and it works ok, must be due to the pinout that is wired for it in the Whodwho MS2 unit.

I used the old tps and took it apart. Strangely it had oil in the sensor so it may not have lasted that long. I used the plastic housing and ground it down to fit the e36 tps and also mount on the throttle. No reason to turn the throttle shaft around, it fits just fine. I was worried that the sensor may not work as it was a junkyard tps but it works great and I am glad I sacrificed the old tps for the new one.

One thing I noticed is that the vtps travels about 75% of the throttle travel and moves the throttle about 50% on the MS2 unit. Then once you get that last quater of travel it transitions up the second half of the sensor to 100%. I suspect the sensor is like that to allow for good steady inputs where you spend most of the time driving at the lower portion of the map.

I will need to update my fuel map as the sensor is different from the old one at low throttle positions. I am hoping to do that the rest of this week. This was one of the last hurdles before turbo time!! ;D

[whodwho]

It will work wired that way but not as solid of a signal.
The oil collection is common I drill a small hole in the lowest part of the cover for a drain when running the stock TPS.
Did you re-jumper the ECU for the variable TPS?
Changing the TPS shouldn't change the maps if you are running speed density

[downforce22]

It will work wired that way but not as solid of a signal.
The oil collection is common I drill a small hole in the lowest part of the cover for a drain when running the stock TPS.
Did you re-jumper the ECU for the variable TPS?
Changing the TPS shouldn't change the maps if you are running speed density

I swapped the TPS wires and it works now. The ECU must have been jumpered for the vTPS because it would cut out like you described at ~70% throttle. My map is close but it still needs tweaks and I have not been into the 100% throttle part of the map.

After I got her up and running she is starting to overheat so I ordered a low temp thermostat and am waiting on that to get her back on the road. I plan to start the turbo install this month.

[downforce22]

I was chasing down an overheating issue that didn't seem to make any sense. I believe I got some air in the system causing the overheating. Nonetheless, after bleeding the system, changing the t-stat, and flushing the coolant it sits right around 190 F during normal operation.


So I began tearing into old smokey to get this party started. :devil: Here are a few before photos.















To fit the intercooler, the power steering cooler and oil cooler was in the way. I removed both as I also need to figure out how to fit the oil cooler lines with the exhaust manifold I was planning to run.



To keep the power steering system, I removed the lower loop from the power steering return and connected the inlet to the cooler directly to the rack and removed the cooling loop.



The intercooler is a tight fit behind the valence. I found there are 2 types of mounting brackets that bolt to the radiator support. Either could be used, but one type would need to be removed and reattached 180 degrees the other way. I really did not want to have to cut the valence much and I was lucky enough to have brackets facing the right way. This is the bracket I am taking about and how it fits with the intercooler fitted. The intercooler core is 24"x12"x3" with 3" end connections. It is obviously wider end to end due to the flanges on each side. I reinstalled with the bolts in place and they limit the upward location of the intercooler. That and the center valence piece holds the intercooler tight.





Here are my temporary mounts bolted into the oil cooler mounts.



Next up was the intake line from the throttle body to the intake boot. It had to be removed. Luckily the hose I removed from the power steering cooler was long enough. I removed the old line and replaced it with the trimmed hose and it fits great. Seen here is the German Engineering intake boot installed also.



I am keeping the AFM for now. Trying to figure out how to route the intercooler hoses and fit the blow off valve.



I had made a custom bracket to move the ABS thing in black and put the coolant reservoir on the drivers side. I bent my custom bracket and i have a straight shot toward my intercooler access hole.



I decided to pull out my fuel rail and replace the injectors. The stockers may be running out of steam at higher rpms anyway.





From left to right, stock 14# injectors, 24# mustang blue top injectors, and 30# bosch injectors.



The stock and 24# injectors have a similar nozzle configuration, but the 30# injectors have a quad-orifice design. I am assuming that is for better fuel atomization.





I looked into the part number on these bad boys. They are Bosch 0-280-150-911. They are 30# at 2.7 bar, which equates to 33# at 3 bar and should support 300 horsepower.





Installed. And now on to the exhaust. In the picture below you can see the gold cap I have on my oil drain next to the axle bracket bolted to the oil pan.




Oil filter and lines removed for clearance testing.



The exhaust manifold should fit, but right now it hits the motor mount. Take a look at all of the photos.











In the second picture you can see how far the manifold studs are from fitting. It needs to come down and towards the rear of the car. So the motor mount and the bolt for the motor mount are preventing the manifold from fitting.

Options:
1. Grind manifold and motor mount down to try to clear
2. Fabricate a different motor mount
3. Modify the exhaust manifold
4. Other???

What do you guys think?


Also, what is this next to the horn on the drivers side?



Either way, some progress finally!!

[Northern]

I've mentioned it a few times, but that manifold does interfere heavily with the stock mount arms, like 1" plus. I filed the top of the mount arm down a lot, but I quickly realized it wasn't going to fit.

My solution was to make a jig from the original mount arm, then make a new arm that mounts much lower and uses a much thinner bushing.