Here's what I've got facing and I'd like some input from you folks. I've used the search function until I'm blue in the fingers and coming to my wits end.
1995 E34 525i M50 Engine 192000 Miles
Crank, no start. I have performed the following tests and replaced a lot of parts that rated failure.
Replaced crankshaft position sensor (CPS) due to Ohm reading of +1000ohms, current reading of 545Ohm which is within the specified range per updated Bentley.
No fuel being delivered to fuel rail, unable to jump points 30 and 86 at relay. Replaced relay and receiving 54lbs fuel pressure at the rail. Tested fuel pump externally and had good pumping operation when hooked to a 12V source.
Replaced DME with red label and associated EWS delete chip, and have good signal from the relay. Also replaced relay because it was inexpensive to do. I have not yet cut the wires to the unit itself, but given that fuel is being delivered I'm not thinking that would be the problem.
Tested compression and received the following dry and wet readings
Dry
Cyl 1 0 PSI
Cyl 2 135 PSI
Cyl 3 160 PSI
Cyl 4 80 PSI
Cyl 5 155 PSI
Cyl 6 160 PSI
Wet
Cyl 1 150 PSI
Cyl 2 210 PSI
Cyl 3 270 PSI
Cyl 4 180 PSI
Cyl 5 150 PSI
Cyl 6 220 PSI
I did not have a chance to perform a spark test on it yet as one of the insulators has gone loose. I will replace this and report back in. Can someone deliniate the process of a coil pack testing for spark? I'm familiar with testing for dead ones but not checking for spark. My apologies.
I can see the crank operating and accessories spinning when I have someone turn the key.
I have also performed the "stomp test" but it isn't revealing anything useful. The only repeating message I get is one short flash followed by nothing followed by a long light then it repeats.
I have also replaced the old battery because it was testing too weak (440 CCA) to correctly start and operate the car. It sits on a trickle charger with automatic shut off at night time to ensure full charge.
If it helps, I also have the following issues yet to resolve;
When trying to crank over when I brought it home the car sputtered and the MAF started smoking, the screens are melted on both ends. This will have to be replaced but aside from poor running it shouldn't affect startup.
There is a coolant leak at the air box where it vents into the intake manifold. This has been bypassed for the moment, but will eventually need to be replaced. (the air box assembly)
So that's where I'm currently at. Aside from changing the spark plugs to known good ones, and testing that I have spark what comes next?
When I change the plugs and determine that I have no spark what is the next diagnostic test I need to run?
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, I'll answer any questions you might have as best I can.
Ken
1995 E34 525i M50 Engine 192000 Miles
Crank, no start. I have performed the following tests and replaced a lot of parts that rated failure.
Replaced crankshaft position sensor (CPS) due to Ohm reading of +1000ohms, current reading of 545Ohm which is within the specified range per updated Bentley.
No fuel being delivered to fuel rail, unable to jump points 30 and 86 at relay. Replaced relay and receiving 54lbs fuel pressure at the rail. Tested fuel pump externally and had good pumping operation when hooked to a 12V source.
Replaced DME with red label and associated EWS delete chip, and have good signal from the relay. Also replaced relay because it was inexpensive to do. I have not yet cut the wires to the unit itself, but given that fuel is being delivered I'm not thinking that would be the problem.
Tested compression and received the following dry and wet readings
Dry
Cyl 1 0 PSI
Cyl 2 135 PSI
Cyl 3 160 PSI
Cyl 4 80 PSI
Cyl 5 155 PSI
Cyl 6 160 PSI
Wet
Cyl 1 150 PSI
Cyl 2 210 PSI
Cyl 3 270 PSI
Cyl 4 180 PSI
Cyl 5 150 PSI
Cyl 6 220 PSI
I did not have a chance to perform a spark test on it yet as one of the insulators has gone loose. I will replace this and report back in. Can someone deliniate the process of a coil pack testing for spark? I'm familiar with testing for dead ones but not checking for spark. My apologies.
I can see the crank operating and accessories spinning when I have someone turn the key.
I have also performed the "stomp test" but it isn't revealing anything useful. The only repeating message I get is one short flash followed by nothing followed by a long light then it repeats.
I have also replaced the old battery because it was testing too weak (440 CCA) to correctly start and operate the car. It sits on a trickle charger with automatic shut off at night time to ensure full charge.
If it helps, I also have the following issues yet to resolve;
When trying to crank over when I brought it home the car sputtered and the MAF started smoking, the screens are melted on both ends. This will have to be replaced but aside from poor running it shouldn't affect startup.
There is a coolant leak at the air box where it vents into the intake manifold. This has been bypassed for the moment, but will eventually need to be replaced. (the air box assembly)
So that's where I'm currently at. Aside from changing the spark plugs to known good ones, and testing that I have spark what comes next?
When I change the plugs and determine that I have no spark what is the next diagnostic test I need to run?
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, I'll answer any questions you might have as best I can.
Ken
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