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Ignition issues -- relay? Ignition switch? -- SOLVED

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    Ignition issues -- relay? Ignition switch? -- SOLVED

    Please view this short video on this issue.

    So it did indeed turn out to be the ignition switch. I ordered an ignition switch (OEM 61321377069) off of Amazon for about $74. After I exposed the ignition...


    My car is suddenly acting weird when I go to turn it over. When it goes into "ON position 1" my radio works, everything works fine, I can use all my lights, etc. When I start to turn it to "ON position 2," there is a "click" noise and then everything disengages. No radio, no lights on dash, etc. Sometimes it will flicker.

    I have checked/replaced fuses as needed, and I only found one that actually looked like it needed to be replaced. I have both original keys for my e30, and I have tried them both, to no avail.

    My fam (mechanics) are telling me that I "just need to keep wiggling the key because it's corroded in the ignition" but I have tried that and the symptoms do not change.

    Anyone with experience with this issue, do I need a new ignition? Ignition relay?

    I just wanna drive my carrrrrrrrr :blowup:

    Thank you!
    Last edited by Nairb; 01-20-2019, 10:29 AM.
    My 1991 318is Progression Thread

    #2
    Looking at your video I would think it is an ignition switch issue. If you want to test the theory, put the key in 2(run) and check for 12V power on the Green wire at the auxiliary fuse box. It is a direct link to the output of the ignition switch.

    You can do this with a Digital Multimeter if you have one, or a simple 12v light bulb with leads attached to each end. The other lead should go to ground somewhere. I suspect the strut tower bolts will be the easiest location for the purposes of the test.

    If you have power, look to swap relay(s).
    '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
    NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
    Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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      #3
      Will do! Thanks for the quick reply.
      My 1991 318is Progression Thread

      Comment


        #4
        So it did indeed turn out to be the ignition switch. I ordered an ignition switch (OEM 61321377069) off of amazon for about $74.

        After I exposed the ignition switch, I could tell that it was easily the most corroded thing in there. The soldered points were all corroded. I guess the humid Southwest Florida air got to it after all these years. After removing the ignition switch, I found that the plastic piece that joins with the ignition was notched heavily due to wear, because the ignition is metal and the ignition switch is plastic. It does feel that the overall ignition and turnover is much better, and the car is back to perfect turnovers again.

        Thanks for the help.
        My 1991 318is Progression Thread

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          #5
          Just a word of caution...Amazon is riddled with counterfeit parts. AMHIK
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
            Just a word of caution...Amazon is riddled with counterfeit parts. AMHIK
            I agree, but I've ordered from this seller before and they were all high quality OEM. Here's a link to their seller page, says its BMW/Mini of San Francisco:
            My 1991 318is Progression Thread

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