The whole time I've had Ruby, the speedometer has always ready 10% faster than what I'm actually doing. It's always bugged me, and since I coudln't work yesterday because of the weather, I thought I'd give it a go at fixing this pet peeve.
This little potentiometer adjust how quickly the speedometer goes up and down. Turn it clockwise, and it will go up slower (indicate a lower speed). Twist it counter-clockwise and the indicated speed will go up.
I decided to drill a hole in the plastic housing of the speedometer to make adjusting it not require full removal every time.
Started drilling too high, now my speedometer has a cock-shaped hole. Sweet.
Dumbass me though "Oh hur durr I'll just go easy so I don't drill into the speedometer"
Well guess what I did. YUP. Fucked over a resistor. The resistor second behind the pot (the one going diagonally) is supposed to be parallel to the one right behind the pot.
I didn't realize this until I went for a few drives and had no speedo/odo. Took the speedo back out and inspected it to find the resistor all cocked over by my smooth moves.
Below is my attempt at resoldering the resistor. It looked like only one side's lead had come undone and that was the suspected reason the speedo stopped working.
I spent so damn long trying to gently finesse my soldering iron behind the pot, not hit anything else, and dab a sweet tiny amount of solder on the broken lead.
You at least gotta give me credit for trying, right?
Well it was clear that my repair didn't work and that I lack the skills/confidence to try to fix this. Off to Ebay to find a new one.
I found the same motometer speedo for sale for $75, AND the seller was an hour away!
I fired off an offer for $50 and said I'd pick it up, and he agreed!
Turns out he's a really cool dude and has restored plenty of BMWs in his day and now sells parts for cash. Ebay name is DesignBolt and his website with some of his past projects is DesignBolt.com
Anyways, the new speedo had broken odometer gears so i swapped in the gears from my freshly-fucked speedometer
As much as I wish Ruby only had 70k, she's been loved a lot more than that! Referencing RagTopE30's post on adjusting the speedometer ( https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=193348 ) I made the new speedo accurate to my actual miles.
Also, not pictured, for some reason the left half of the gauge cluster went dim on the drive home last night. It came back on, and then the right half went out.
Well, I spent today driving around with Waze as my GPS reference, stopping, adjusting the pot, and going again.
Once I was happy with the speedometer matching the GPS decently enough, I headed back home to put it all back together.
I replaced the gauge lights with LEDs I got off Amazon because the right bulb (that was out today) had a broken filament. I'm not sure why the left half died last night, but the right bulb was definitely dead. Could be a broken board in the cluster, but I definitely can't afford that shit right now. Gotta love having your ability to work dependent on good weather :^)
Also ^ painter's tape on the steering wheel/column will make sure you have it straight every time you reinstall the wheel
This little potentiometer adjust how quickly the speedometer goes up and down. Turn it clockwise, and it will go up slower (indicate a lower speed). Twist it counter-clockwise and the indicated speed will go up.
I decided to drill a hole in the plastic housing of the speedometer to make adjusting it not require full removal every time.
Started drilling too high, now my speedometer has a cock-shaped hole. Sweet.
Dumbass me though "Oh hur durr I'll just go easy so I don't drill into the speedometer"
Well guess what I did. YUP. Fucked over a resistor. The resistor second behind the pot (the one going diagonally) is supposed to be parallel to the one right behind the pot.
I didn't realize this until I went for a few drives and had no speedo/odo. Took the speedo back out and inspected it to find the resistor all cocked over by my smooth moves.
Below is my attempt at resoldering the resistor. It looked like only one side's lead had come undone and that was the suspected reason the speedo stopped working.
I spent so damn long trying to gently finesse my soldering iron behind the pot, not hit anything else, and dab a sweet tiny amount of solder on the broken lead.
You at least gotta give me credit for trying, right?
Well it was clear that my repair didn't work and that I lack the skills/confidence to try to fix this. Off to Ebay to find a new one.
I found the same motometer speedo for sale for $75, AND the seller was an hour away!
I fired off an offer for $50 and said I'd pick it up, and he agreed!
Turns out he's a really cool dude and has restored plenty of BMWs in his day and now sells parts for cash. Ebay name is DesignBolt and his website with some of his past projects is DesignBolt.com
Anyways, the new speedo had broken odometer gears so i swapped in the gears from my freshly-fucked speedometer
As much as I wish Ruby only had 70k, she's been loved a lot more than that! Referencing RagTopE30's post on adjusting the speedometer ( https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=193348 ) I made the new speedo accurate to my actual miles.
Also, not pictured, for some reason the left half of the gauge cluster went dim on the drive home last night. It came back on, and then the right half went out.
Well, I spent today driving around with Waze as my GPS reference, stopping, adjusting the pot, and going again.
Once I was happy with the speedometer matching the GPS decently enough, I headed back home to put it all back together.
I replaced the gauge lights with LEDs I got off Amazon because the right bulb (that was out today) had a broken filament. I'm not sure why the left half died last night, but the right bulb was definitely dead. Could be a broken board in the cluster, but I definitely can't afford that shit right now. Gotta love having your ability to work dependent on good weather :^)
Also ^ painter's tape on the steering wheel/column will make sure you have it straight every time you reinstall the wheel
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