Robbies alpine sedan 5cyl swap

[Vtec?lol]

As far as cluster
The coding plug is the little tab thing in the front of the cluster when you remove the cover. Yank it out and swap it, no need to change the entire gauge cluster as you will be doing an 885 swap soon lol!

Make sure you grab the harness back to the ecu just to keep things simple.

As for t-stats, the valve in the rear of the block is just a tstat for you heater core. Helps prevent scalding coolant from blowing all over your leg. If it's original, delete it. If not, I don't see the harm in keeping it.

As for the crank sensors. Some eta's have two crank sensors some don't. I've had one with two, and I've had one with only one. You will need the ecu to whichever one you have. It is also flywheel specific so you would need the dual mass flywheel, clutch, pp, and trow out bearing. Post up your ecu label and someone will be able to tell you which is which.
I can't tell you off the dome which crank sensor goes where but the front should have a mount for it. IIRC the rear was mounted on the bellhousing. Not sure so don't quote me! lol

This is why we suggest you should grab a gasket and head studs and go ahead and do the head swap. It's only 30mins to get it off with the engine in the car and you will spend only a few bucks 100-$300 max
-885 head with intake
-throttle
-idle valve
-MAF sensor
-ecu
-harness
I believe that's all you need to be golden and you can grab one from a member for the low man. Trust me, piecing together that eta is going to take more time than to swap the I head. You can take that harness and ecu back but if you must continue we understand.

Also, you can use all stock b27 parts with the 885 head to have the super low compression if you plan to go turbo you will be golden. it won't be r3v happy.

as far as motor swaps, I'm a fanatic of the M20 because of its simplicity and performance. that b27 block is bulletproof and the 885 is most def needed for boost because of it's larger valves and free-er flowing/larger ports(like mentioned)

All you need to do is grab a good piggy back and tune it for 10-17psi and you're a torque monster and launching like a bat outta hell.

M/s5x motor swaps can be a pain if not planned correctly. Lots of odds and ends to be sorted out and you's be surprised with how common the swaps are, how much info is left out. Don't plan on turbo'n a swap without getting yourself familiar with it first.

[Eecen]

I don't want to throw mis-information at you, but it's be better to figure this out now, than later.

If you end up needing to run the two crank sensors; The one reading off the flywheel is going to be a problem...AFAIK late G260s don't have the hole for that sensor.

[ogbimmer]

I don't want to throw mis-information at you, but it's be better to figure this out now, than later.

If you end up needing to run the two crank sensors; The one reading off the flywheel is going to be a problem...AFAIK late G260s don't have the hole for that sensor.

when I swapped in a 2.7i motor in my girfriends car it was a direct bolt up with the ihead installed and the oilcooler added.

[Vtec?lol]

^correct and thats because of the updated motronic only uses one crank sensor up front

[ogbimmer]

^correct and thats because of the updated motronic only uses one crank sensor up front

so wouldn't it be the same for Robbie since he has the plastic bumper e30 also? on a side note I had no clue the early e30s were that much different :)

[Vtec?lol]

No. He has a late model car but bought the early model engine

[Eecen]

If he runs a 2.7i with a b25 ecu etc the later G260 won't be a problem. But If he wants to run a b27 with its standard ecu he may run into trouble w/ the two crank sensors.

[mdlimy]

so if i do the 885 head conversion all my problems will go away and i can use the 1990 325i harness and ecu?

[Vtec?lol]

*BINGO!* (...yes)

[ogbimmer]

so if i do the 885 head conversion all my problems will go away and i can use the 1990 325i harness and ecu?

Which is what I said at the start :) good luck to you sir haha

[Kershaw]

im pretty sure you dont need to swap pistons. but the only issue is that you'll go from 9:1 (stock eta) to 8.3:1. people talk about the seta pistons because then you can keep your compression at 8.5:1 (stock i.)

however, 8.3:1 is perfect if you're going to turbo it down the road.

[mdlimy]

Which is what I said at the start :) good luck to you sir haha

Just wanted to make sure before I jump in ;)

So what headgasket kit do you guys reccomend? And metric blues for head bolts?

If I do this, as long as the bottom end turns out to be fairly healthy it will probally see some boost, not much, probally about 250-280whp but just enough to play around while I build a motor.

Any other tips or recomendations for parts I will need would be great, ill be getting on this this week.

Robbie

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[accident]

looks like you got a good start.

please get rid of those tail lights :p

[ogbimmer]

Just wanted to make sure before I jump in ;)

So what headgasket kit do you guys reccomend? And metric blues for head bolts?

If I do this, as long as the bottom end turns out to be fairly healthy it will probally see some boost, not much, probally about 250-280whp but just enough to play around while I build a motor.

Any other tips or recomendations for parts I will need would be great, ill be getting on this this week.

Robbie

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

If its just temporary I would roll with a cosmetic head gastket and arp 2000 head studs.

If you are going to all out build a motor I would go with a 24valve though unless you want to stick with the m20 for some reason.
theres plenty of videos of stock 24valve motors making over 400hp

[mdlimy]

If its just temporary I would roll with a cosmetic head gastket and arp 2000 head studs.

If you are going to all out build a motor I would go with a 24valve though unless you want to stick with the m20 for some reason.
theres plenty of videos of stock 24valve motors making over 400hp

I'm still not sure on what motor I will build but I'm not worried about that right now, I know I atleast want to get an 885 head on the b27 and get it ready for 300whp at the most, and since that is all I am shooting for id like to stay away from arp studs since they are a bit spendy, and the cometic hg I think would drop my compression slightly and id like to try and keep it at the 8.3:1 at the lowest lol.

I know the headgaskets are the week point on these motors but...assuming I have a good tune running on the vems, would I be able to get away with a standard hg and metric blues on the motor if I am planning to not go over 300whp?

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