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Old 10-16-2018, 11:57 AM   #241
ForcedFirebird
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Use studs on the header. Over the years, I have never had luck with aluminum heads and header bolts. Studs with stover nuts has been the choice.

Also, if you bead roll or put a weld bead on the end of your pipes, you will eliminate coupler leaks. (I have also seen the "poor man's" strap where they put a strap from pipe to pip over the coupler to keep them from popping, sorta like this...



Too bad you moved so far north. I probably have a CHRA you could borrow and/or a stock exhaust so you could go to Spectoberfest. :/
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Old 10-16-2018, 12:23 PM   #242
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My cylinder head to header hardware is OEM stuff, either the studs back out or the nut loosens, I think the header flange is not flat and the heat cycles cause the fasteners to back off as it moves. I put bolts on the turbo to header due to studs backing out like they're bolts anyway after they rust together. As for IC piping, all pieces aside from one have a bead rolled in, that one piece has a "bead" crimped in with a modded vice grip. Anyway, it's the t-bolt clamps which were causing leaks, even tightened down they would leak where the bolt threads through and in every case except one a worm gear clamp fixed the leak. Haven't really blown any hoses off aside from the throttle body hose a few times.

Yeah it would be nice if you were a little closer, it's the out west part that makes it so far, 20min to get to I95 then another 45 to get down to where your shop is. I'm probably going to be riding down to broward county tomorrow after class to have my turbo rebuilt by one of the shops down there, it's unfortunate that they won't do it while I wait and I'm going to have to make 4 hour and a half trips
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:05 PM   #243
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Life took some turns this week, but I managed to get my car back on the road in time for spectoberfest. I wound up shipping the turbo to the shop via UPS to avoid having to carry it around campus and ride to Hialeah on my motorcycle with it, and got it back on Friday. Removing the header is a pain in the ass, the bottom rearmost nut was impossible to get a wrench on in the right angle because of the bellhousing and firewall, and the clearance between the nut and the tube was too small for any of my sockets to fit. I wound up grinding a cheapo deep socket down and hammering it onto the nut which got it off and on just fine, but taking the header off took at least an hour. I welded the 4 cracks with my fluxcore wire and had it ready for the turbo on Thursday night, and installed the freshly rebuilt turbo Friday afternoon with an nice big oil filter temporarily placed inline. I don't like how it's hanging off of an Aluminum AN fitting and I'm waiting on a short 4AN line so that I can place it between the existing line and the turbo in a way that isn't in danger of cracking and falling off.




Other than the spec E30 crowd the E30 turnout at spectoberfest was unfortunately very poor, only a few showed. The convoy in was short, I led 2 other E30s down bumpy, foggy roads around Lake Okeechobee, taking a different, shorter route than in previous years. I don't think the other guys appreciated it in their lowered cars. Got a nice ride on the track in the beautiful M20 swapped 318is track car that I tuned earlier this year, the highlight of the trip for sure.





Got a nice sunset on the way back too.
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Old 10-23-2018, 05:13 PM   #244
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Found a suitable line for my oil filter. It isn't a perfect solution, but it was free, and it eliminates the risk of that aluminum elbow cracking due to the weight of the filter and line vibrating away at the end of it.

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'91 318is, M20B25, T3/T04E 60 trim (15psi), megasquirt, coilovers, Z3 rack, cold AC
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:54 AM   #245
driftxsequence
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what megasquirt are you running? I'm running a simple wastegate setup but wouldnt mind trying an electronic setup if the MSPNP supports it.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:25 AM   #246
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My water pump saved my engine. It was squealing so I bought the parts to do the timing belt and pump after the end of my semester and found this:





The belt has been rubbing for who knows how long, and I doubt it would've lasted until its change interval which was around 20,000mi away. The tensioner didn't have much play in it, but its bearing was pretty dry. It's a shame there's no easy way to inspect the timing belt on an M20, no inspection cover. The best you can do is pull the cap and rotor, which I will be doing periodically from now on to make sure my belt hasn't started rubbing again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by driftxsequence View Post
what megasquirt are you running? I'm running a simple wastegate setup but wouldnt mind trying an electronic setup if the MSPNP supports it.
MS2 kit build. No idea if your PNP supports it, depends on who built it.
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'91 318is, M20B25, T3/T04E 60 trim (15psi), megasquirt, coilovers, Z3 rack, cold AC
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Old 12-18-2018, 09:05 AM   #247
ForcedFirebird
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#8 in the link is the "inspection cover", but it won't help much for the tensioner...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_0405
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Old 12-19-2018, 04:21 AM   #248
econti
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you know, a M42 doesn't have a belt that can fail. Maybe you should swap to one of them
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Old 12-19-2018, 05:07 PM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by econti View Post
you know, a M42 doesn't have a belt that can fail. Maybe you should swap to one of them
Yeah, it's really too bad that just about everything else about it is crap
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