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    New rear adjustable Camber/Toe design.

    Alright pretty stoked about this, as it's been a long time coming. new design of the weld-on adjustable rear camber/toe kits. Basically wanted to make this as simple, effective, and cost friendly as possible. No need to over think this.

    the new design incorporates 'Positive Lock' interlocking teeth rather than eccentric washers,. Each step(tooth) is 1/16" of adjustment. The adjusting slot much larger for a wider range of adjustment (1.14" of adjustment). The (heat treated) adjuster is threaded on one side so adjusting only requires one wrench and so subframe bushing clearance issues for toe adjustment are minimized.

    Just some quick pictures to better explain whats going on..

    ADAMS Autosport

    #2
    Interesting. Have you guys stress-tested this? Presumably with the slots cut, you'd want to extend the original sheetmetal up to the top of the box to keep the internal width the same.

    What's the target price for a kit? Milling those slots doesn't look cheap...
    cars beep boop

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      #3
      That should eliminate the movement of the adjusters after setting alignment. Im fact I'm pretty darn sure they will. The only problem I see with those will be in trying to set alignment, especially with respect to toe.

      With one race weekend on them my toe locks for the old style adjusters have worked (see http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227914)
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        Yeah it'll definitely eliminate adjuster slip. It will also be a pain to adjust though.

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          #5
          Testing has shown that the longer adjustment has been sufficiently strong enough (same longer adjustment has been already used for the camber on the 2002's for quite some time), however if one wants to beef if it up, it certainly wouldn't be a bad idea.

          It would have been considerably cheaper to make the serrations larger, but the 1/16 distance in serrations is nice to get as close as possible to the desired setting. Of course its not completely arbitrary like an eccentric would be, but it comes as close as possible without sacrificing the inherent benefits of the serrations.

          Cost was partially offset by the fact we don't have to rely on OEM eccentric bolts, so each kit will be $10 more, making them $95 a set (camber or toe)
          ADAMS Autosport

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            #6
            Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
            Yeah it'll definitely eliminate adjuster slip. It will also be a pain to adjust though.
            How so? With the tension holding the threaded adjuster on you just need to loosen the inner bolt head. Lot easier than the two bolt heads on the eccentrics.
            ADAMS Autosport

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              #7
              Have you guys tried adjusting the alignment with this setup installed on a car? It seems like making incremental changes will be much more difficult than an eccentric bolt setup.

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                #8
                ^ Yes, it's different, yes, but not more difficult. I find clearancing subframe bushings and trying to get two wrenches in there pretty difficult. Tomatoe TomAtoe I guess. We'll still have the eccentric style for those who want to go that route.
                ADAMS Autosport

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                  #9
                  I see a problem with the height of the adjusters when installed on the car. I feel like they will hit the belly pan when installed.
                  Need a performance chip for you BMW? Shoot me a PM and I'll get you taken care of!!
                  Taylor- Follow me on Instagram @e30_fiend


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                    #10
                    ^ Shouldn't be an issue. There's clearance on an E30 with the IE stage 3 springs as well as another with H&R race. Looks like there's quite a bit of room to spare.



                    Last edited by SkiFree; 12-06-2011, 11:55 AM.
                    ADAMS Autosport

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                      #11
                      Looks like teeth would not hold up in the the long haul... but hopefully I'm wrong.
                      WTB: Diamond Schwartz Hood

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                        #12
                        Seems like you have more adjustment with this set up. I am guessing that you cut the OE hole out to accommodate?
                        sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
                        The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

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                          #13
                          is that a ae86 i spot in the back ground!!!!

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                            #14
                            What about the height with subframe raising bushings? IIRC they lift it up 12mm.
                            cars beep boop

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                              #15
                              ^^ Frankly, I don't know from actual experience as we don't really mess around with different height subframe bushings, but I do know that there was at least 20-25mm of clearance on the car equipped with IE urethane subframe bushings.

                              Monster - Early Celica, originally prepped by toyota for the Celebrity Race during the Long Beach Grand Prix. Just getting it running right and then get it out of the shop (a little out of place).

                              AE86 - I don't want to sound like a sales guy. They've held up for what we've thrown at them so far, I guess the only way to know for sure is to check in another ten years.

                              bmwguy325is - Yes, that is correct if you want the full adjustment, if you were ok with less you could stop a bit short when cutting on the subframe.
                              ADAMS Autosport

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