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    #16
    Again, my prices reflect a delivery within hours, so not comparable to a mail order. :/

    Are you handy enough to reman your own M/C? The parts are seriously $20.

    If not, me, personally, would choose the ATE over all others for QC.
    john@m20guru.com
    Links:
    Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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      #17
      I've been watching videos of rebuilds on the MC and honestly it doesn't look too bad. It's basically a snap ring and a bunch of seals. The issue is I can't find a rebuild kit on any of the regular websites I buy parts from. If you can point me in the right direction it would definitely be appreciated! If not I'll just go with the e32 MC upgrade.

      If this doesn't solve the problem I guess my only other thought would be brake booster or the check valve.


      My Daily Driven 318is

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        #18
        34311154861 NLA :(

        There's a vendor on eBay that has them NOS, but he is asking $50...

        john@m20guru.com
        Links:
        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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          #19
          Yeah I saw that too, looks like I'm going with the e32 brake master! Can anyone verify this is the right PN: 34311156643?


          My Daily Driven 318is

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            #20
            I had an issue with the cv on the vacuum line to the booster that cause me all sorts of head aches.

            I would try that first, as it’s cheap and yours is most likely 30 yrs old
            Originally posted by codyep3
            I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
            2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
            1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
            1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
            2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
            2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
            2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
            2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
            2010 F650gs twin
            2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

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              #21
              Yup. Just used on on an s54 swap.
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                #22
                Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
                I had an issue with the cv on the vacuum line to the booster that cause me all sorts of head aches.

                I would try that first, as it’s cheap and yours is most likely 30 yrs old
                Would any generic fit?

                Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                Yup. Just used on on an s54 swap.
                I'm going to change the check valve and see if that fixes up anything first before I spend $$$


                My Daily Driven 318is

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by gespinal0301 View Post
                  Would any generic fit?



                  I'm going to change the check valve and see if that fixes up anything first before I spend $$$
                  I would assume so, but the factory one was quite cheap iirc.

                  Also, make sure there is no leaks on the line and fittings to the cv.
                  Originally posted by codyep3
                  I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
                  2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
                  1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
                  1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
                  2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
                  2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
                  2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
                  2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
                  2010 F650gs twin
                  2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Miguel801 View Post
                    I have same pads and I noticed like a good percentage more stopping power that starts poorer than oem until like a simple couple stops from 40 to warm them up then they are very noticeably better, especially in the high speeds. also maybe smoke test the brake booster?
                    Forgot to reply to this, but how do you perform a smoke test?? lol


                    My Daily Driven 318is

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
                      I would assume so, but the factory one was quite cheap iirc.

                      Also, make sure there is no leaks on the line and fittings to the cv.
                      I changed everything to silicone hoses when i did the mess under the intake (M42 stuff).


                      I checked and couldn't find a part number from fcp, pelican or turner. Autozone only pulls up GM stuff and they look smaller than what I have


                      My Daily Driven 318is

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                        #26
                        Just a quick update, I bled my brakes again and the fluid was pretty dirty considering the fact that they were bled 4-6 months ago.

                        My brakes did get better, but they still aren't where they should be. Once i get back home I'm going to follow Jon's advice and clear the hard lines. I'll probably replace the booster and master as well just cause since they're old and itll be a nice upgrade.


                        My Daily Driven 318is

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by gespinal0301 View Post
                          Just a quick update, I bled my brakes again and the fluid was pretty dirty considering the fact that they were bled 4-6 months ago.

                          My brakes did get better, but they still aren't where they should be. Once i get back home I'm going to follow Jon's advice and clear the hard lines. I'll probably replace the booster and master as well just cause since they're old and itll be a nice upgrade.



                          ...it's joHn, but all the same :p


                          If you still have crud in them, keep bleeding until the fluid is clear.



                          Rubber bits compress far more than real hydraulic fluid ;)
                          john@m20guru.com
                          Links:
                          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by gespinal0301 View Post
                            Just a quick update, I bled my brakes again and the fluid was pretty dirty considering the fact that they were bled 4-6 months ago.

                            My brakes did get better, but they still aren't where they should be. Once i get back home I'm going to follow JoHn's advice and clear the hard lines. I'll probably replace the booster and master as well just cause since they're old and itll be a nice upgrade.
                            Fixed just for you ;)

                            Im going to let it sit for a week and rebleed again


                            My Daily Driven 318is

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by gespinal0301 View Post
                              Where did you get your master cylinder from? And would it be worth it to upgrade to the e32 MC?
                              my buddy here, spiDmang got a new oem. i am not sure about the e32 MC.
                              ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                              '90 325i sedan daily driven
                              '85 325e coupe also a daily

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                                #30
                                I wonder if this is my problem, too. I stepped on the brakes a bit harder than usual the other day, and at a certain point, they basically just gave, and went to the floor. Not like a 100% brake loss, but still very noticeable. I pumped em a bit to see what was up, and to see if pedal pressure would come back. It did. It seems like a bad seal could be the issue, when more than X amount of pressure is applied to the seal, it gives.

                                Thoughts?

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