Help with Code 1222

[prb44t]

I have a '90 iX with 17# injectors, K&N short ram and a MarkD chip.

About 2 months ago I starting getting a brief flicker of the CEL. Stomp test revealed a 1221 code. Not knowing better, I quickly ordered a new (non-bosch) o2 sensor. I started getting more consistent CELs and 1221s. I looked and found a cracked hose near the ICV. Once replaced the codes cleared and for 2 months I had no issues.

Thanksgiving weekend, on a highway drive I started getting a CEL. It would come on during constant throttle cruising and would clear once I lifted off the gas. Stomp test was 1221. The next day the CELs started staying on longer and picked up a CEL on surface streets. Code 1222 appeared now too.

I looked for cracked hoses, etc. I tried the carb cleaner on various hoses, etc. But could not find a clear leak. So I took it in to my BMW mechanic. They found numerous vacuum leaks. And we essentially replaced all of the gaskets and o-rings in the intake system. The fuel injectors were cleaned and o-rings replaced. Plugs which were fouled were also replaced. I also replaced the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) for good measure.

I drove the car home without issue. But on three separate drives that same night I was able to reproduce a CEL and a 1222 just as before. Steady cruising with load and would clear when I lift off the gas. This morning the car also got erratic idle once warm -- jumping from 1500rpm down to <500rpm causing the CEL and the car felt like it would almost stall. Though I have not been able to reproduce that yet.

Based on some reading I went to the local parts store this afternoon and picked up a new coolant temp sensor and replaced. I also cleaned the KN filter. Drove it and still got a CEL 1222. At this point I am at a loss as to what else I could try.

Recap:
code 1222 / 1221
new non-bosch o2 sensor
new non-bosch Crank Position Sensor
replaced gaskets on intake system
smoke test shows no leaks now
cleaned KN filter
new coolant temp sensor
new plugs
cleaned injectors and new o-rings
fuel pressure measured by mechanic was 40 & 43psi


AFM? ICV? I am not sure what else to check at this point. Any ideas?

[Vtec?lol]

I'm having the same issue with my M60. I looked in my harness and found a few smoked wires so I'll need to replace those. Check your harness and clean all connections. I'll keep an eye on his thread to see what your solution ends up being.

[Ether-D]

Here's a bit of info I found.

"1222/1213 – Lambda Control - The Lambda code means that “something is wrong with your air fuel ratio” and it is logged into the ECU as an AFR that diverts from nominal for more than 10 seconds. In other words, your air fuel ratio is either too rich or too lean for too long of a timespan.

Vacuum Leak – Check for the carbon canister, fuel lines, any of the vacuum hoses on the engine intake. If there are any cracks in the hoses, including the intake boot, replace it with new.
Idle Control Valve – Swap with a known working unit. Clean with brake cleaner to make sure that the flapper inside moves freely. Test by unplugging the ICV when the car is idling. The idle should shoot up.
TPS – Make sure that the resistance values are per the Bentley manual for both closed, open throttle, and all in between.
Coolant Temp Sensor (blue tip) – This could, if faulty, send the wrong signals to your fuel injectors. Make sure that the resistance values are correct according to the temperature of your engine.
Air Flow Meter – Make sure that the air flow meter is properly registering the correct resistance values when the flapper is open and closed and all in between. Is the carbon canister working properly? Check the electrical connections."

Also, you replaced the TPS, is it adjusted properly?
Stuck open/closed injector?
Good luck.

[uturn]

I'd say smoke the engine again a try to find more vacuum leaks. I had a new idle air hose(CRP) that developed a crack in less than a year. I also put in aftermarket fuel injector o-rings(GB Remanufacturing, Inc.) to find they were just a little off and contributed to a vacuum leak also. Good Luck!

[prb44t]

Thanks, the shop has offered to do another smoke test. I will do that soon.

I haven't replaced the TPS yet. Reading about it sounds like it could be the culprit. I will do a continuity check on that as well. Thanks for the suggestions.

[BMWManiac]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=260268

Hopefully, not the same issue. I pretty much did everything you did. If you, at any time in this process see your oil pressure light flicker or turn on, you'll be in the same boat as me.

[prb44t]

I don't think its the same issue as your CEL seems to come on the opposite of mine. Yours happens on idle and coasting. Idle and coasting seem to clear my CELs.

I mentioned in the original post that I put in a non-bosch o2 sensor a couple months back. I took a chance last night and installed a bosch sensor and today made the same drive in to work without any CELs or idle issues. I am not ready to say that it is fixed but my fingers are crossed.

What was more curious about the generic o2 sensor was that when I took it off the port/plug for the electrical connection side had some white/clear goo in there. Maybe some type of grease or something. I cleaned and dryed out the port as best as I could before installing the new one. Not sure what that crap was. Any ideas?

[tdennehy]

Code 1222 - but only when &quot;cold&quot;. (but it isn't cold out)

My 1990 325i vert is stomping a 1222. A few months ago, my ICV was sticking, and the idle was bouncing up and down. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and stuck it back in and bought a new one. When the new one arrived, I put it in. Non-Bosch.
Fast forward a few months - it was winter and I wasn't driving it as much since it rains in CA and the car leaks a little here and there, usually on the driver's seat. I started driving the car again and noticed that the car would lurch - almost as if the car was shut off and then turned back on. The CEL light would come on briefly and then go off again. At first I was afraid to drive the car, but then I quickly figured out this only happens within the first five miles of driving the car that day. After five miles, it no longer happens. Even if I drive it to work and let it sit, it will not do it until the next day, when this starts all over again. I drove it to my mechanic, however it didn't stopped by the time I got there. It only lurches 3-5 times in the morning, and then it stops.

Any ideas? It appears intermittent, even though I have determined there is a pattern.

[jeffnhiscars]

Cold refers to the engine/coolant temp not the ambient.

[tdennehy]

1990 325i vert lurches only within first five miles in a day

Jeff,

Yeah, I think I pretty much knew that, thanks for confirming. Looks like we have the same car.

I have been wondering if it has something to do with a temperature sensor - it sure sounds like it. Like I said, it only happens once a day, whenever I start driving the car and within the first five miles or so. Then it stops. I guess I should be grateful.

To prove my theory, I started the car and left it in the driveway for 15 minutes and then drove it. Only on little hiccup and it was fine. Not the normal "big lurch" where you think the car just shut down.

I turned the AC on yesterday - first time this year. I noticed the air hardly worked when the car was sitting still - it would not blow cold air. Something tells me these two are related. To prove my theory, I was thinking of boiling some water and pouring it over the radiator, near the temp switch and then starting the car and taking it for a drive. If it does not lurch, I will have narrowed it down some more.

[tdennehy]

1990 325i vert lurches only within first five miles in a day

I confirmed that it only really happens when I start the car the first time of the day and drive it. I can drive five miles somewhere, and it lurches - almost as if the car is quickly shutting off and back on. Might happen a dozen times or so. If I pull into a parking lot and shut the car off, when I come back and start the car it acts normally. Therefore, it only appears to misbehave the first time I run the car every day. It won't do it at lunch time or on the drive home. Only the first 5-10 miles or so.

Anyone got any ideas? Unfortunately I can't bring it to the BMW shop, since it is a 45 minute drive and the car behaves by the time I get it all the way there.

I would like to replace the "low hanging fruit" first, before bringing it to the mechanic. My mechanic has five e30's, so I know he will be able to find the issue, but I like working on my car myself.