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The semi-Comprehensive M60b40 into E30 swap Q&A

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    The semi-Comprehensive M60b40 into E30 swap Q&A

    There has been much discusion about this infamous swap.
    I, among others on this site are giving this a shot.
    Yes, it's been done to nauseum over in the U.K...but less here in North America

    Lets start with the basics.
    Before you start thinking "hey, I know of a M60b40 engine for cheap" let it be known, that your fancy V8 engine is likely one of the less expensive parts of the project.

    take your time, and read this website-->
    As a supplementary to the translation, below you will find various topics covered by RTSAUTO: https://www.rtsauto.com/m60-swap-eliminating-ews-for-404-ecudme/ - Eliminating EWS https://www.rtsauto.com/e30-boosterless-brake-bracket-booster-delete-manual-brakes-for-swap-cars/ - Boosterless Brakes (manual brakes) https://www.rtsauto.com/manualbrake/ - Manual brake calculations https://www.rtsauto.com/wiring-harness-adapter-guide-for-e30-m60-and-obd-1-m62-swap-pinout-and-a-cheap-way-of-getting-x20-and-c101-connectors/ - Wiring harness adapter https://www.rtsauto.com/e30-m60-m62-v8-engine-mounts/ - Engine mounts https://www.rtsauto.com/radiator-and-cooling-for-m60-m62-v8-e30-swap/ - Radiator and Cooling https://www.rtsauto.com/mounting-an-m60-m62-without-subframe-spacers-and-without-drivetrain-angle/ - Mounting an M60 / M62 V8 Into an e30




    finished reading that?

    move on to this-->
    familiarize yourself with this website--> http://www.300mm.de/
    specifically the "TYPE 5" section--> http://www.300mm.de/typ5/typ5.html

    still gung-ho?

    awesome.

    I'll focus on *my swap* specifically, which my goal is to have a functioning m60b40 working and road ready in my e30, using the most basic methods. There are MANY variables to this...6spd, obd2, EWS etc etc

    I'm cross posting information offered by Garey (bmwmech1) as he seems to to have harnessed this quite well, and has been a wealth of information for my project aswell. Special thanks also goes out to Noid over on Maxbimmer.

    Not knocking the 6 cylinder swap as it's straightforward and well documented and there are plenty of bad-ass M/S5x swapped cars running around with a ton more HP than an M6x car will make. That being said, I agree that it's been done and done well, whereas the V8 swaps are not as common, so the "wow" factor is a little higher. I think most of the larger hurdles have been covered, so lets talk about the M6x swap in a little more detail...

    Basic Parts collection
    1. Transmission- either E34 530i 5 speed or E34, E39 or E39 M5 6 speed. Both require different clutch/flywheels, but either will work, effort varies. Mounts for 5 speed are stock E30, 6 speed has to be made.
    2. Motor Mounts- can be bought (300mm.de) or made, I made mine, pretty simple to do.
    3. Cooling- E36M3 or Z3M radiator drops in, Z3M is the preference, since it's 3 row.
    4. Exhaust- E38, E39 or X5 4.4 manifolds are necessary to start with, the rest has to be custom made... enough said
    5. Braking- Easiest to source an E34 V8 brake setup and retrofit.
    6. Electrics- 404 DME from an E34 or E32 V8 car, harness can be made for C101 connector pretty easily.
    7. Driveshaft- E30 M3, E36 328i, early E36 M3 4 bolt are bolt in for the 5 speed, 6 speed is more work, due to longer length of trans.

    Motor Mounts from 300mm.de



    ECU/DME
    As far as the wiring goes, you need the engine harness and 404 DME from a manual V8 OBDI car, preferably the car the engine came from, if it's OBDI. You need to make a "connector" harness, just like the ones Rogue sells for the M5x swaps, for the C101 connector in the car to the engine harness connector, assuming your car has a C101 connector. Since these E30s and E34s were from the same "era", most of the wiring is similar, as far as what is in each loom, diameters and in some cases, even colors. I makes it simpler, but not plug and play.

    ECU/DME con't
    The 0 261 200 404 Motronic m3.3 ECU should be used because it lacks EWS, and thus is much less of a headache then other m60 ecu's.

    As far as the tachometer is concerned, either a 4 cylinder cluster needs to be used or you can use a 6 cylinder cluster and take the chip/white plug from the front of the cluster of a 4 cylinder cluster and exchange it into the 6 cylinder cluster. Then you need to half the signal from pin 47 from the ECU (anywhere along the wire path to the cluster regardless if using a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder cluster).

    Brake Booster relocate
    The most challenging part one could argue is the brake booster, I find the easiest way is to just use a brake booster from a e32/e34, and to mount it behind the left headlight (via welding) and extend the push rod.




    Exhaust Manifolds/headers
    For the exhaust mani./headers part numbers 11627500483 and 11627500484 should be used from an x5. Everything after that, is custom.


    Now keep in mind, this is still a very basic guideline as to what to expect.
    this is more of a "what to collect" before you start the swap.

    Happy hunting!
    Originally posted by flyboyx
    i have watched my dog lick himself off a few times

    #2
    You could have posted in here - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=185568
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    Comment


      #3
      Thank you for this, I'll try to find some things to add

      Comment


        #4
        Right now I'm pricing out maintenance needs - tell me if I'm missing anything

        e: It appears Jean has done much of the legwork there

        Originally posted by Jean
        lower timing case stuff

        11141436978 - 22 gaskets
        11141275466 - 24 shaft seal

        upper timing case stuff

        11141433305 - 11
        11141433306 - 11

        valley cover stuff

        11141742042 - 76 cap/seal
        11141736106 - 16 cover
        11141729836 - 8 rear block gasket
        11141710247 - 64 rear shaft seal - 30az

        oil pan stuff

        11131742109 - 42 oil pan gasket - 21az
        11431436230 - 15 dip stick
        11131436324 - 35 lower oil pan gasket - 20az
        12611277129 - 2 oil lever sensor o ring

        cyl heads

        11129069871 - 30 profile gasket 1-4 -17az
        11129069872 - 30 profile gasket 5-8 -17az
        11121437395 - bolt seals ?? 1 each

        crank case tube

        11151702012 - 20

        cyl head gaskets
        11121736318 - 1.74mm - 76 5-8
        11121736317 - 1.74mm - 76 1-4

        belt drive

        11281702898 - belt 42 - 19az
        11281731220 - 70mm idler 78 - 36az
        11281731838 - deflection pulley - 46 - 20az
        11281736857 - belt tentioner - 91 - 30az

        timing chain stuff

        11311736275 - guide rail 53
        11311741244 - guide rail 1-4 53
        11311741247 - guide rail 5-8 53
        11311747411 - chain tentioner - 95
        11317531813 - chain tentioner - 78
        11311736020 - timing chain 163 - 111az

        timing chain upper

        11317512359 x2 65 - 28az
        11317598262 x2 65 - 28az
        11311725441 chain tentioner 1-4 153 - 101az
        11311725442 chain tentioner 5-8 153 - 108az
        11311736408 x 4 sliding piece for the above tentioner 11

        oil pump chain
        11417576917 - 30

        cooling pipe stuff

        11531731833 x2 gaskets 6
        11531710048 x2 o rings 3
        11531710055 x2 o rings 1


        water pump
        11510007042 - 192 - 117az
        tstat
        11531702279 - 33 - 21az
        water pump gasket
        11511731372 - 4
        gasket ring
        11511705408 -4

        intake manifold

        5 9 10
        11611729728 7 - rear profile gasket
        11611729727 7 - front profile gasket
        11611433328 x 4 - intake manifold gasket
        pcv -

        exhaust manifold gasket
        11627505789 = 10
        11627509677 = 10
        11627505789 x 2 = 10
        Other misc
        4 knock sensors (12141702163)



        Flywheel and clutch


        If you're like me you cannot live without a ltw flywheel. There are a few options:

        VAC does a 16lb flywheel + an M5 clutch for the 6 speeds for $1499.


        UUC offers a 13.5lb flywheel + a performance organic clutch for $1599


        The 280mm clutch + flywheel setup they offer shouldn't be needed with an NA M6X + e30 weight.

        http://www.jbracing.com/flywheel-bmw5.php JB racing also offers some 13lb flywheels for $800.

        There's an e39 flywheel e36 328 clutch kit combo that apparently works with the 5spds, paging bmwmech1!
        Last edited by Mr Two; 10-13-2011, 06:04 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          ^ yeah not many choices for light flywheel w/o spending almost $1k on it lol
          Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



          OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

          Comment


            #6
            That's pretty standard, though. I feel it will be worth the money to me, I love the revs and how direct the power is in my current setup, running a 13lb 323i flywheel mated to an S52. Driving feel is very important to me.

            Mr. Burns, if you're so inclined, feel free to update the OP as we add more information - we can get it all into ONE spot and make a sticky.

            Comment


              #7
              There is some talk of using E36 stuff on bfc as well...I'll post something if it comes up.
              Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



              OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

              Comment


                #8
                If anyone else is curious, that part list above minus a few items is at $1300 including the 4 knock sensors. I didn't include new timing chains as I'm fairly certain the old ones should be fine in whatever I end up getting. Timing chain guides and tensioners add up fast.

                Comment


                  #9
                  5-speed Flywheel/Clutch options

                  For those going with the 530i 5-speed (ZF), here is the flywheel/clutch assembly that will work, as in bolt-it-on:

                  Flywheel: JB Racing E39 540i flywheel
                  Clutch: E36 328 Clutchmasters Organic Stage 1 kit
                  Slave cylinder: 530i

                  Basically, there are three models of BMW that used this clutch kit - e36 328i (all body styles), E39 528i Sedan, and Z3 2.8 Roadster. The OEM clutch kit is part #21211223602, but again, we used the Clutchmasters upgrade for the application. Given the torque differences between the 2.8L six, and 4.0L V8, I would be very hesitant to use a stock clutch kit. We chose a lightweight flywheel, but it is dimensionally identical to a stock flywheel, so the stocker should work (just don't drop it on your foot).

                  Sachs offers a "Sport" pressure plate (part # 883082 720), adding 18-20% more clamping force, as well as a full "race" clutch kit. Again, this is for the E36 328 or equivalent application

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Retaining speed-signal - non-stock instrument cluster

                    For those not using a stock dash, here is some info to make sure the DME is getting a required speed signal from the diff:

                    The diff uses a reed switch (magnetically driven switch), rather than an inductive pickup or hall sensor. So, the switch opens/closes as the teeth of the reluctor (9) pass by the switch mounted on the diff. If you check out an e30/e34/e32 ETM manual, you will see that the instrument cluster is providing power, and also providing a path back to ground. However, it is providing power through a pull-up resistor, of unspecified resistance. The R-value of the resistor in this case is determined by the amount of current that one would prefer (or prefer not) to sink at the DME. So, choosing a relatively high pull-up (3.3 kilo-ohm) should only cause about 4mA of current to flow. By limiting charge flow, the waveform will be better, especially as switching times (higher speed) get short.

                    Anyhow, to create your circuit, run 12-volts through a 3.3Kohm resistor, then to the diff (red/brown on e30), and then connect the other (brown) wire coming off the diff to ground. Run another wire from the diff side of the resistor to your speed input at the DME (or pin 14 of the X20 connector, which would also be pin 14 on the C101/e30 side of the world). Then enjoy full-RPM range in all gears.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i'll be doing this swap soon, so I'll need some help but I'm fully documenting the build.


                      Go here be happy!

                      Ratchet Garage e30 V8 build.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks Bruce.

                        Does anyone have any pictures of clearance to the stock brake booster opening in the firewall? Is there enough room to mount a wilwood master cyl. there?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Can you lighten the stock flywheel?
                          Originally posted by Matt-B
                          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            sub'ed
                            Originally posted by Matt-B
                            hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mr Two View Post
                              Thanks Bruce.

                              Does anyone have any pictures of clearance to the stock brake booster opening in the firewall? Is there enough room to mount a wilwood master cyl. there?
                              Not a chance. You have about 2.5" to the valve cover on a good day. Three options exist: 1) remote master/booster a la 5-series; 2) in-cockpit booster -less MC's; 3) H31 Hydro-boost setup (yet to see that successfully installed).

                              -Bruce

                              Comment

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