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Restoring/Building a Shady e30

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    #1

    Restoring/Building a Shady e30

    Bought an 89 325is sedan from a guy that deals in BMW and Volkswagens, he told me it ran when he last parked it but the fuel pump went out. Whatever, $1250 later it’s at my house on a trailer. Got into the process of changing timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, camshaft seal, thermostat, tensioner, spring, and pin. 1) the coolant chamber/whatever is rusted allll the fuck out. Bought a set of silicone radiator hoses because the old ones are probably trash. 2) water pump was rusted and seized up, already had a new one, so no biggie. At this point I decided to check out this faulty fuel pump.....AHA! No fuel pump assembly, at all. So, got a used one for a good price. Good deal. Tank was fuel of trash and rust....dropped and rinsed it out as best at possible. So, now I’m stuck. Do I continue with the water pump, tensioner, belts, etc an attempt to flush the block with the prestone stuff, orrrr what do I need to do? Pictures will be attached somehow someway.

    Thanks everyone.


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    #2
    Hoping to have the car running this weekend, so any help and/or input is greatly appreciated.


    Certified welder, fabricator, and structural steel estimator.
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      #3
      Originally posted by eatweldlift View Post
      Bought an 89 325is sedan from a guy that deals in BMW and Volkswagens, he told me it ran when he last parked it but the fuel pump went out...

      At this point I decided to check out this faulty fuel pump.....AHA! No fuel pump assembly, at all.
      Item as described!

      In all seriousness:

      Before you tip $$$$ into parts, have you spun the motor by hand to make sure everything rotates as it should?

      The a compression test might be in order as well (before you bolt new stuff & hope it fires)
      E30 320i vert
      But daily drive is Volvo V60 Polestar

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        #4
        Get an inspection bore scope camera, they can be had for $20 on amazon. Stick it down the spark plug holes and make sure there is no rust or damage.

        After get a $50 leakdown tester and do a leakdown test.

        If all is well, I wouldn't be concerned with rust right behind the water pump; its very thick cast iron.
        Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

        Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by Tzantushka View Post
          Item as described!



          In all seriousness:



          Before you tip $$$$ into parts, have you spun the motor by hand to make sure everything rotates as it should?



          The a compression test might be in order as well (before you bolt new stuff & hope it fires)


          Everything rotated smoothly when I was aligning the timing marks and what not, nothing felt stuck or anything.


          Certified welder, fabricator, and structural steel estimator.
          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by noid View Post
            Get an inspection bore scope camera, they can be had for $20 on amazon. Stick it down the spark plug holes and make sure there is no rust or damage.



            After get a $50 leakdown tester and do a leakdown test.



            If all is well, I wouldn't be concerned with rust right behind the water pump; its very thick cast iron.


            I didn’t even consider doing that. I’ll borrow my friends scope and do that as soon as possible.


            Certified welder, fabricator, and structural steel estimator.
            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            Comment

              #7
              There's a coolant drain plug on the passenger side of the block.
              Open it up, and run some water through the opening for the water pump, it will help flush out loose bits of rust.
              Mine didn't look too much different than yours tbh, I got all the small bits out, and refilled it with BMW coolant, car stays nice and cool now.

              As others said, spin the engine over. Check the oil, pull the valve cover, check the valve train.

              Since you have the tank dropped, I'd recommend buying a new one, and also, take off your filler neck, it's probably full of rust too. They're $$$ to replace, so I'd just clean it the best you can and use POR-15 sealant to prevent further rust. Oh, and a new fuel filter.

              Best of luck man!

              I always love the line "Ran when parked."
              Well, no shit Sherlock.
              I do things.

              Comment

                #8
                I’ll definitely add those things to my list. I’ve already put the fuel tank back after I rinsed it out, but I’m looking at either a new tank or a fuel cell set up. I’ve got an extra fuel pump, fuel pump filter, and inline filter, so that shouldn’t be an issue.

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