Started tuning my DedericMS plug and play MS2 yesterday, and ran into an issue with losing the VR signal around 4,800 RPM. The VR signal looks clean otherwise, but I still need to get a timing light on the car to make sure the tooth #1 angle is perfect. When reaching 4,800, it's like fuel cut/redline, and the lost sync counter does go up.
The Dederic box is Microsquirt v2.2 based, running MS2/extra firmware. He ships the board with a 10k ohm resistor on the VR+ (pin 47). DIYAutotune's PNP kit is also Microsquirt based, and they supply their kit with an 18k resistor. In other documentation, they mention a 10-20k resistor depending on the application. For reference, MS2 boards come with a variable potentiometer for the VR signal, so they are able to fine tune it using the pot.
I tried wiggling the CPS bracket on the motor, but there is not much play there. The air gap is minimal. I pushed it as close to the toothed wheel as possible, but didn't try going the opposite direction (as far as possible from the wheel).
Should I just try the 18k resistor? Or even possibly using the proto area on the daughter board to put a potentiometer like MS2 uses?
EDIT: I just checked my air gap between the crank wheel and the CPS. It's very tight, probably about 0.3-0.4mm. I am going to try and back it off to the 1.0mm spec this weekend before changing anything on the MS board.
The Dederic box is Microsquirt v2.2 based, running MS2/extra firmware. He ships the board with a 10k ohm resistor on the VR+ (pin 47). DIYAutotune's PNP kit is also Microsquirt based, and they supply their kit with an 18k resistor. In other documentation, they mention a 10-20k resistor depending on the application. For reference, MS2 boards come with a variable potentiometer for the VR signal, so they are able to fine tune it using the pot.
I tried wiggling the CPS bracket on the motor, but there is not much play there. The air gap is minimal. I pushed it as close to the toothed wheel as possible, but didn't try going the opposite direction (as far as possible from the wheel).
Should I just try the 18k resistor? Or even possibly using the proto area on the daughter board to put a potentiometer like MS2 uses?
EDIT: I just checked my air gap between the crank wheel and the CPS. It's very tight, probably about 0.3-0.4mm. I am going to try and back it off to the 1.0mm spec this weekend before changing anything on the MS board.
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