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US Hella Ellipsoid to Euro Smiley questions

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    US Hella Ellipsoid to Euro Smiley questions

    Hello all, I'm making this thread because I have a few questions for converting from Hella Ellipsoid (US) to Euro Hella Smiley headlights.

    First off, I'm using this ( http://www.rtsauto.com/e30-euro-smil...us-ellipsoids/ ) as my main source of info, along with the E30 bulb list thread ( https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=291567 ). I just want whoever might be kind enough to help to see what my sources of information are.

    In the RTSAuto write up, they say you just need to cut the wires for the 9004/9005 bulb connectors and solder on the connectors for the H1 bulbs. Is there any sort of conversion unit you need as well, or a conversion plug I can use to eliminate the risk of me goofing up the connection and having my lights go out in the middle of the night some day?

    Also, the RTS article says you can splice the city lights wiring into the front side markers. According to the bulb list, the cit lights and side markers are the same exact bulb. I have blacked out side markers, and plan to get the euro bumper trim without the side markers eventually, so my question on the city lights is: does anyone know if the wiring for the side markers is long enough to just put the lights into the city light spot? Would I have to solder some extra wire to make it work? Or will it not work for some reason? Also, if extra wire is needed, what kind of wire should I use?

    Tha's all the questions i can think of right now, but I'm sure I can come up with more.

    #2
    Yes, cutting off the US plugs and splicing on Euro plugs is all you need to do.

    I would recommend using crimp on but splices instead of soldering. I prefer using uninsulated ones with shrink tubing over them. Soldering a joint properly is harder than the average person thinks and unless you have a lot of experience with it, you will likely get a bad joint that will fail in the future. Even proper joints will corrode given enough time. Crimp joints are idiot proof (or nearly).

    These are what I use:

    Order today, ships today. 31819 – Terminal Butt Splice, Inline, Individual Openings Connector Crimp 14-16 AWG from TE Connectivity AMP Connectors. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.


    Order today, ships today. 31818 – Terminal Butt Splice, Inline, Individual Openings Connector Crimp 16-22 AWG from TE Connectivity AMP Connectors. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.


    And this set of crimpers:



    You can usually get them from Lowe's or Home Depot. Similar Klein crimpers work well too.

    Use the smallest size connector that the wire will fit into and the outside diameter won't be much bigger than the insulation on the wiring. This keeps things nice and tidy without big lumps. Alternatively, you can buy the red/blue insulated connectors from the auto parts store and just cut/sand off the insulation. It's just more work. Use shrink tubing that just fits over the connectors.

    City lights use a long tube-looking socket that puts the connector right at the back of the lights. Not sure if the side marker lights will reach. If you need to extend them, I suggest cutting wire out of a car from the junkyard. Then the colors will match and the factory wire is very high quality wire.

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      #3
      Levy, it's pretty easy. Don't bother with soldering - crimping is better for the current your headlights will see. Use the correct size crimps otherwise they will work themselves loose; the red ones are perfect. I bought a 100 pack at home depot for like $7

      the wires for the side markers aren't long enough to make it up to your city lights so you'll have to extend them. Make everything color coded so it'll be easy to figure it out later on. Black or brown for ground, white or yellow for positive.

      If you want you could stick some shrink wrap around the crimps. I always wrap mine in electrical tape. I've never had a problem with them coming loose.

      If you don't want to cut off the connectors for your side markers (think you'll want to go back someday?) you can use t-taps. Everyone shits on them but I've had a set on my car for years now. You can get "waterproof" ones which are essentially filled with dielectric grease.

      Also, be careful what kind of city bulb you use. I had a W5W (5 watt wedge base) bulb in my Depo set and it melted the housing the bulb sits into. I had to cut it out with an x acto knife. I replaced them with some 6000k LEDs from superbrightleds.com that were like $1 each. I've seen other depo sets with this problem


      it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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        #4
        T-taps are awful. Don't use them. They do not create a good connection and often times actually cut the wire partially. There is a reason everyone says they suck and that's because they suck.

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