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Chase Bays front to rear brake lines
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Chase Bays front to rear brake lines
Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectivesTags: None
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It's availability of pre bent hard lines that makes most people go with soft lines. For instance, many trucks have full, ready to install, brake line kits available for $50-100. For an E30 to get "direct fit" you'd need to buy a bunch of lines individually (for several hundred dollars) and still bend them to fit once you have purchased said lines.
Basically, if you need to replace hard lines you should invest in or borrow a good brake line bender and flare tool setup.
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Originally posted by othatseric View PostPut this on my car this past summer, anything in particular you want to know??
Price is the big push for me to get these. I was quoted at a local shop about 250-300 in materials and several hours in labour. Honestly, don't have that much cash and need the car on the road.
I'm not worried about durability, since I'll be using the existing stays and such for the main run to the back, they are decently protected, and the lines on the car are the original ones.
How was the install? Seems pretty straightforward. Any tips from your experience? How have you found them since install?
Thanks for the input!Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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Originally posted by estoguy View PostPrice is the big push for me to get these. I was quoted at a local shop about 250-300 in materials and several hours in labour. Honestly, don't have that much cash and need the car on the road.
I'm not worried about durability, since I'll be using the existing stays and such for the main run to the back, they are decently protected, and the lines on the car are the original ones.
How was the install? Seems pretty straightforward. Any tips from your experience? How have you found them since install?
Thanks for the input!
The connections between the hard lines and the soft lines were realllllllllllllly crusty, to the point where I twisted off as much of the hard line as I could and left the T-block up there. YMMV
To take the off the soft lines efficiently I recommend a lot of penetrating oil, vice grips and some good crowfeet. Get a set of metric and imperial crowfeet I forgot which, but if theres rust it will fill in the gaps in the socket lol. Also you definitely need the crowfeet or flare nut wrenches to reach the connection between the regulator and the hard line. The nut end of the regulator is a 19mm and the top is a 15mm i think and theres alot of shit blocking the way to reach it. I also took off the regulator entirely cause I was refreshing the reservoir and master cylinder.
There are like 4 clips that run down the frame rail that hold the hard line from the regulator to the T-block, they are held in by a phillips head screw, expect them to strip out. Resort to any means necessary to get the clips off
The regulator was a little crusty so I painted mine in por15, not really necessary, and I was too cheap to replace it.
I wasn't able to reuse the metal clips along the frame rail so i used a bunch of zip ties and followed the fuel lines and routed the long section next to the fuel filter etc.
They have worked fantastic since, but I haven't safety'd my car yet and I couldn't find a dot sticker on these lines so I'm a little worried about that.
tldr; buy it boxing day if you can wait like 2 weeks and expect to spend a full day to remove everything. And another to install + bleed and wear eye protection pleaseee!Last edited by othatseric; 12-17-2018, 08:46 PM.
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