The m54b30 E30 build (NL)

[jmaul10]

Yeah its been a bit of a journey over here as well, have learned a ton and I think the biggest lesson is its never as easy as outlined on the web. Glad to hear you might have figured out your gearbox issue. I think I tracked down the ps pump problem. The motor came out of an e46 330i so originally came with the lf-20 but looks like they sell an upgrade kit to the lf-30 which is on this engine and the brackets might be slightly different then whats on a e46 with the lf-20 or e39 with the lf-30 so purchased a cheap used e39 ps pump with the brackets on ebay and hoping the ps pump is clocked a little counter clockwise so that the inlet clears the pan. Fingers crossed. If not I am at a total lose.

[maxpostma]

The gearbox problem has been fixed but a new problem has come in its place:
Say hello to p0365. The ob2 scanner says it's an exhaust cam sensor.
I've replaced both cam sensors by now, but the code appears everytime the car is started.
Anybody might now what this could be?

[maxpostma]

The gearbox problem has been fixed but a new problem has come in its place:
Say hello to p0365. The ob2 scanner says it's an exhaust cam sensor.
I've replaced both cam sensors by now, but the code appears everytime the car is started.
Anybody might now what this could be?

Luckily it seems to be the crankshaft sensor, but it's strange because it runs really nicely.

[pazi88]

Luckily it seems to be the crankshaft sensor, but it's strange because it runs really nicely.

These can run purely based on cam sensors too. Of course the ecu will run in fault mode, but engine will still run almost normally. Just lacking power and poor mpg.

But still that code is for exhaust camshaft sensor. Have you rebuilt the engine? If you have, I have seen some isntall the cam trigger wheel for exhaust 120 degrees off, which will cause that dtc, even with new sensor. Also I have seen many unopened m54 engines with that dtc, and cause have been too streched chains. Re-degreeing cams helps for that.

[maxpostma]

These can run purely based on cam sensors too. Of course the ecu will run in fault mode, but engine will still run almost normally. Just lacking power and poor mpg.

But still that code is for exhaust camshaft sensor. Have you rebuilt the engine? If you have, I have seen some isntall the cam trigger wheel for exhaust 120 degrees off, which will cause that dtc, even with new sensor. Also I have seen many unopened m54 engines with that dtc, and cause have been too streched chains. Re-degreeing cams helps for that.

Thank for the help, I haven't rebuilt the engine. I agree that the dtc is strange. Will try the new sensor today. Otherwise I will open the valve cover to check the chain.

[maxpostma]

The crankshaft sensor wasn't the problem, so the next step was to open up the valve cover.
And I found this...

Maybe the code is because the sensor isn't able to sense the metal because of all the carbond deposit.
If anybody has another theory, i would be happy to hear it.








and a video of the chain which seemed fine to my:

[maxpostma]

These can run purely based on cam sensors too. Of course the ecu will run in fault mode, but engine will still run almost normally. Just lacking power and poor mpg.

But still that code is for exhaust camshaft sensor. Have you rebuilt the engine? If you have, I have seen some isntall the cam trigger wheel for exhaust 120 degrees off, which will cause that dtc, even with new sensor. Also I have seen many unopened m54 engines with that dtc, and cause have been too streched chains. Re-degreeing cams helps for that.

I checked the cam trigger wheel, and it's correctly installed. The cams are also alligned properly, but you're able to move them a little individually because of some slack in the system (is this normal?).

[jmaul10]

In the last couple of weeks I think my dad and I removed the gearbox about 5 times trying to find the cause without succes (messing with different throw out bearings and trying to find wear marks). Yesterday I removed some material of the inner fins of the gearbox and that seems to have solved the horrible noise.
Quiet strange because there weren't any serious wear marks.

Now we can finally continue making some real progess.

HI I think we are having the same issue with the exact setup if "removing some material of the inner fins" seemed to work for you could you elaborate how you fixed the issue. Also what are your thought regarding the swap after driving the car for awhile. I think we will try the shorter t.o. bearing first. Thanks.

[Modz]

Very nice, I’m doing the same in New Zealand. What upper radiator hose have you used? Thanks

[gespinal0301]

I'm currently busy with the wiring harness.

I think that I've figured out most of the wires.
But I've the folllowing questions, which aren't meantioned in the m54 e30 swap thread:

-Is it possible to just connect pin 10 from x0004 to the pin 13 of the c101 e30 plug, in stead of using the lime green ms43 relay? (For the fuel pump setup)

-is it possible to connect the electric fan signal wire (pin 4 x0004) of the ms43 dme to a pusher fan for the coolant radiator?

-Is is possible to make the fuel consumption gauge work? Which wire do you have to connect to c101 pin 8?

-is it necessary to use an e30 coolant sensor for the gauge? Or is it also possible to use the ms43 signal and connect this to c101 pin 4?

I was just wondering what did you end up doing for the fuel pump and did the fan signal work with the pwm fan? I was thinking of running the wire that controls the Fuel Pump from the original ECU to tie into pin 10 of the X6004 since they are both grounding it

[noorshah]

Don't really have this problem, the steering pump is an original BMW e39 part which clears the e38 sump perfectly.

Hey maxpostma,

Pretty good build and thanks for sharing all the knowledge along with us. I am just starting on this journey and gathering all the info before I strip my E30 :)

Regarding the Oil Pan - I see you have confirmed that the E38 728i Sump, Pickup and I believe the Dipstick all work as a plug and play swap? I know this is an old thread but thought will try and confirm before I hit "BUY".

Thanks.

Noor

[maxpostma]

Hey maxpostma,

Pretty good build and thanks for sharing all the knowledge along with us. I am just starting on this journey and gathering all the info before I strip my E30 :)

Regarding the Oil Pan - I see you have confirmed that the E38 728i Sump, Pickup and I believe the Dipstick all work as a plug and play swap? I know this is an old thread but thought will try and confirm before I hit "BUY".

Thanks.

Noor

Yes it's basicly plug and play if I recall correctly

[maxpostma]

HI I think we are having the same issue with the exact setup if "removing some material of the inner fins" seemed to work for you could you elaborate how you fixed the issue. Also what are your thought regarding the swap after driving the car for awhile. I think we will try the shorter t.o. bearing first. Thanks.

For me it was a painfull proces of removing and installing the gearbox about 6 times. In the end I used a flapper wheel and removed about 5mm of each fin

[maxpostma]

Very nice, I’m doing the same in New Zealand. What upper radiator hose have you used? Thanks

It's the original e30 e320i upper radiator hose that came with the car, I probably shortened one or both ends of the hose to make it fit properly and fitted the e39 water coupling on the engine side.

[maxpostma]

I was just wondering what did you end up doing for the fuel pump and did the fan signal work with the pwm fan? I was thinking of running the wire that controls the Fuel Pump from the original ECU to tie into pin 10 of the X6004 since they are both grounding it

I used X60004 pin 10 from the ECU to trigger the fuel relay, For the PWM signal I used X60004 pin 4.