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Old 05-13-2019, 10:18 PM   #31
bmwman91
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Often the hub looks scored, but it is usually not. Give it a good wipe with some acetone and a light pass with a metal polishing pad or steel wool. I just did my front main seal and thought my hub was scored, but it cleaned up perfectly.

Check the condition of the crank damper VERY closely. Push on it and look for any signs of the rubber separating from the metal shells. I had mine take a dump last month, and while it was a $500 part, it should be good for another 29 years and the car runs better than it has at any point in the last 5 years since it turns out that these things go out incrementally.
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:37 AM   #32
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Often the hub looks scored, but it is usually not. Give it a good wipe with some acetone and a light pass with a metal polishing pad or steel wool. I just did my front main seal and thought my hub was scored, but it cleaned up perfectly.

Check the condition of the crank damper VERY closely. Push on it and look for any signs of the rubber separating from the metal shells. I had mine take a dump last month, and while it was a $500 part, it should be good for another 29 years and the car runs better than it has at any point in the last 5 years since it turns out that these things go out incrementally.
Part #1 in this diagram?
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:11 AM   #33
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Yes, but it looks different in real life.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:07 AM   #34
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Hmm, will check out on the old motor, thanks for the tip! Teardown started, got most of the way there, just need to wait for the parts now.

Odd note: There was some old fuel or something in the fuel rail, I heard it drop right out of the rail and into the intake ports when I pulled the lower intake off. Didn't smell like Fuel, but this engine sat for a good while, so it could be that or some other liquid. I thought I had water in the intake ports, but realized the wholesaler bench ran the motor to check compression, so it had to have come from the fuel rail. Thinking about it now, it's weird that any residual fuel didn't come out of the rail when they compression tested it. Any ideas? I'm kinda running though the scenarios in my head thinking when could this liquid possibly come out of the rail or intake?

Also, the plastic on the knock sensors was super brittle, they're just in the block aren't they? any reason I couldn't just pull them out and run the block with those holes naked?

In case anyone needs to know how to mount an M42 Block to an Engine stand the bolt hole threads below are M12x1.75mm You can use anywhere from 80mm length to 90mm, these are 90mm, plenty of thread to securely mount the block to the stand plate


Got the intakes/fuel rail off, for anyone doing this, don't put any nuts on the fuel rail, it will fall into the intake port, luckily The valves were closed on cylinder 2, so I could fish it out with a magnet. Anyone need a complete M42/M44 E36 Intake?


Front of the Engine with the pulleys and accessories removed


Intake side with everything but the coolant pipe and Oil Filter housing removed.
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:51 AM   #35
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Looks good overall.

Not 100%, but the holes for the knock sensors aren't likely to be through drilled, so you might not need to put in a bolt there.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:19 AM   #36
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I'll have to see if my E30 block had the same holes provisioned when I pull it

I was surprised, the rear main is dry, but the front main needs replaced
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:39 AM   #37
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The E30 M42 block is identical to the E36 one and has the knock mounting holes, despite no knock sensors being used. It is fine to remove them.

I am not sure what might have drained out of the fuel rail, if not fuel, but as long as the cylinders are not somehow full of liquid you should be fine.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:29 PM   #38
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Sweet.

Can I sand out the intake mating surfaces on the E30 intake manifolds? I'm pretty sure they've got a small leak on cylinder 3 on both upper and lower. 1000 grit?
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Old 05-16-2019, 04:49 AM   #39
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I might be looking to purchase something from Engine World as a backup motor for my Champcar. I'm curious how this motor turns out, M42's are getting a little harder to come by.
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Old 05-16-2019, 09:02 AM   #40
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I might be looking to purchase something from Engine World as a backup motor for my Champcar. I'm curious how this motor turns out, M42's are getting a little harder to come by.

I'll be updating this thread with reseal pics, so keep checking back! Probably about two weeks tho, waiting on stuff from pelican, some of the seals have to come from BMW. I only ordered Genuine BMW seals.

There's a guy named Al that has a bunch of BMW stuff and he's based on the east coast, he's been mentioned in a lot of 2002 forums/grassroots. Might want to shoot him an email, I hear he has everything. I reached out to him but he said I'm to far away. His email is 324tdi@gmail.com
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:43 AM   #41
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I'll be updating this thread with reseal pics, so keep checking back! Probably about two weeks tho, waiting on stuff from pelican, some of the seals have to come from BMW. I only ordered Genuine BMW seals.

There's a guy named Al that has a bunch of BMW stuff and he's based on the east coast, he's been mentioned in a lot of 2002 forums/grassroots. Might want to shoot him an email, I hear he has everything. I reached out to him but he said I'm to far away. His email is 324tdi@gmail.com
Very cool, thanks for the heads up!
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:05 PM   #42
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Sweet.

Can I sand out the intake mating surfaces on the E30 intake manifolds? I'm pretty sure they've got a small leak on cylinder 3 on both upper and lower. 1000 grit?
MAYBE. What exactly is the problem with them? 1000 grit is probably so fine that it won't do much at all, or if it does, the problem was something the paper gaskets would have sealed anyway. The risk with more aggressive grits is that you round the flanges at the ends/edges and then they are no longer flat or coplanar to one another. If there's crud on the faces, then some acetone and a brass brush should take care of it, and maybe a window scraper if it is really on there.

Good pics and stuff so far, keep it coming!
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:18 PM   #43
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MAYBE. What exactly is the problem with them? 1000 grit is probably so fine that it won't do much at all, or if it does, the problem was something the paper gaskets would have sealed anyway. The risk with more aggressive grits is that you round the flanges at the ends/edges and then they are no longer flat or coplanar to one another. If there's crud on the faces, then some acetone and a brass brush should take care of it, and maybe a window scraper if it is really on there.

Good pics and stuff so far, keep it coming!
I see fuel residue when I pull the upper manifold, I'll take a pic when I start pulling it apart again
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Old 05-16-2019, 03:43 PM   #44
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If the inside of everything is coated in a brownish oily film, that is just oil residue from the PCV system. Every high mileage M42 has a pretty soiled intake system from that.
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:15 PM   #45
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If you think your intake surfaces are so uneven that the gasket cannot compensate you should verify and replace. It's more likely that the clamping load is uneven.

However, if you just want to have them flattened many machine shops will be able to put them on a linisher for you.
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