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Old 11-26-2017, 10:26 PM   #451
digger
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Does stock fan run on low when a/C button is pushed ? Or high ? From memory it's low
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Old 11-27-2017, 04:49 AM   #452
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Does stock fan run on low when a/C button is pushed ? Or high ? From memory it's low
The AC kicks it on low but I always have jumped them to run on high since it does help the AC at low speeds. The SPAL is hard wired to run on high only and at that speed makes less noise than a stock fan on low.. Just remember to bump the low speed fuse to match the high (7.5-15IIRC). Note that both high and low wires are .75mm so there's no risk of overload. They just defrayed the fuse to match the design load.
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Old 11-27-2017, 02:26 PM   #453
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Was tossing up whether it's worth getting the spal over spinning the stock one on high.

ultimately I've been told by several people now that the airflow through condenser at low vehicle speeds is a key thing so maximum fan flow seems to be the goal to maximise the performance

Can you get condenser and fan installed by removal of radiator and front grills ? I don't want to pull the whole front end if I can
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Old 11-27-2017, 03:57 PM   #454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digger View Post
Was tossing up whether it's worth getting the spal over spinning the stock one on high.

ultimately I've been told by several people now that the airflow through condenser at low vehicle speeds is a key thing so maximum fan flow seems to be the goal to maximise the performance

Can you get condenser and fan installed by removal of radiator and front grills ? I don't want to pull the whole front end if I can
I was able to work my SPAL through the valance on the 87 cabrio. It was snug but very managable and you dont need to remove the radiator to install it or the condensor. I'm not sure when valances changed so can't advise you beyond that.

Oh...and I got the curved blade fan since I think it pushes more air than the straight blade version
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Old 11-27-2017, 05:08 PM   #455
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I'll Be changing condenser which I don't think can be done from front without removing a bunch of crap that I don't want. so it's been said removal of radiator allows it to be fitted from within engine bay?
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Old 11-27-2017, 05:50 PM   #456
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the condensor is thinner than a stock fan or SPAL. Honestly you do not need to remove the radiator to do any of of this.
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Old 12-22-2017, 08:03 PM   #457
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Ac compressors

Surprisingly all 4 of my ac compressors are different. All hoses that connect to the compressor has different fittings. I have 2 86 es, 90 is and 318is. Also the compressor bolts for the bracket also have 2 different sizes.
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Old 12-28-2017, 02:15 PM   #458
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HELP! Need answer ASAP!

We recently took our 1988 E30 to have the system converted from R12 to R134A. We took it to an authorized BMW mechanic in our area. We then bought a remanufactured compressor from Parts Geek and the part came in and says it is filled with 3 oz. of oil. We are doing the rest of the A/C project on our own. My mechanic said that I should empty it out because we won't know if the oil that it in it is mineral like the old ones came with or if it's synthetic. He suggested we empty it out and add 3-4 oz. of PAG 46 synthetic. Any advice? Also, when we took out the old compressor it says R12 on the side of it. The new one doesn't say, but it is exactly the same and it was ordered for a 1988 BMW 325i, so I am assuming it is for an R12 system, since that is the original system on the car. Can I install that new compressor that I ordered or should I be ordering a different compressor now that the system was already converted to R134A? HELP! PLEASE!
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Old 12-28-2017, 06:09 PM   #459
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Parts geek should be able to tell you how that compressor is set up. Unfortunately there is much misinformation on this subject. Bmws service bulletin on conversions specs compressors that have r134a compatible seals butnare, in fact, still r12 compressors. They are designed to run at different pressures and you are highly unlikely to get good results from an r12 compressor running 134 just with updated seals.

Get a dedicated r134 compressor (good luck finding a mount kit though) a PF condensor, jump,your resistor, upgrade your fan and get barrier hoses that will contain r134 for more than a season or 2. Anything else will disappoint and have you throwing money at it for years.

If you're"authorized BMW mechanic" doesn't understand this, find an AC guy who does

AMHIK
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Old 12-30-2017, 06:58 PM   #460
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Jeff's spent more time with E30 AC systems than anyone I know, and everything in his response is 100% correct, but....

It is highly unlikely that a rebuilt compressor you just bought would not have 134a compatible seals. Good idea to change out the oil, unless you can verify that it's the same as what was put in your system during the 134a conversion. Were all the o-rings changed during the conversion? If not, you should never go back to that mechanic. The original o-rings are not compatible with 134a and will eventually fail, causing you to chase endless leaks. Getting to some of the o-rings is a PITA, so lots of quickie conversions skip that critical step.

Once you have the new compressor sorted, I would just install it, pull a vacuum on the system to get rid of moisture and check for big leaks, pressure test the system for small leaks, vacuum the system again and then fill with 134a. If the pressures on the gauges look good after the fill and you can get the desired discharge air temp at the vents, then drive the car for a while and see if the AC performance is acceptable.

If the performance is not acceptable or if you have to keep adding 134a too often, then start with the full conversion that Jeff described. Knowing that there are no compressor conversion brackets currently being made for E30s, most people say that switching to a parallel flow condenser makes the biggest difference. Others say that the expansion valve is also critical. My cabrio has almost all original hoses and I only have to add one small can of 134a per year, so it hasn't been worth it to change them all out yet.

Most everything you need to know is in this thread, so download one of the Photobucket fixes for your browser and start reading. Hope you get it figured out. I used to live near you (Hollywood), so I appreciate good AC!

Cory
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Old 01-02-2018, 05:13 PM   #461
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What's the best way to get the stock aux fan to run on high with A/C button pressed?
I want the low and high to work as per normal when a/c is not on
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Old 01-03-2018, 05:54 AM   #462
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Quote:
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What's the best way to get the stock aux fan to run on high with A/C button pressed?
I want the low and high to work as per normal when a/c is not on
You jump the resistor to get it to run high but that may disable the low speed circuit for the temp sensor as well. Ive never known that to kick in so never worried about it. The high speed temp sensor should not be affected.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:40 PM   #463
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Hello sir I ran across your amazing article about doing a R134 conversion on a R 12 system for the E 30. I am going to completely go through my system I changed my condenser to a parallel style condenser and I Have disconnected all the hoses so I can completely flush the system and I will replace the evaporator in the car also along with the expansion valve that you recommended for a R134 conversion my car is equipped with the switch pictured below Do I need replace the switch on to the new filter dryer or do I need to get a different switch when converting from r 12 to r 134



Dave (Mcallen TX) 1987 325i
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:33 PM   #464
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That looks like a low pressure switch which is the same for both systems so as,long as it works, no point in changing it. The HP switches are different since r134 has a higher working pressure so,if you can find one I'd change that.

AC flush isnrather costly so you may want to connect as many parts as you can for it to run through.
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:44 AM   #465
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Does anyone know if I need to put an auxiliary fan back in if I'm running an e36 m42 electric fan on my 318is? It's set up to run only high when it kicks on as is now. I just don't want to go through all the trouble to setup a new A/C system and then not be able to cool it enough with only the one fan.
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