Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

First autocross with new setup done - first impressions.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Yeah, slightly different scenario in your case as you are still using stock pedals and booster but I am curious about the wilwood calipers though.

    Did you purchase the calipers (what’s the exact model so I can check what piston size diameter they are) directly from wilwood and the caliper adapters from Massive ?

    And finally what wheel size diameter and offset / backspace you are using for clearance ?

    Thanks
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    Comment


      #17
      I am running these calipers

      Wilwood 120-9703 Dynapro 1.38" Piston/.810" Rotor Billet

      I have 2 sets of wheels 15 and 16" both +20 and I run 4mm spacer front and 8mm in rear.

      I had to have the front one machined to make up the rotor hat difference in thickness about a mm.

      you can see some pics on ig @vntg_e30

      Comment


        #18
        Thanks man, will check out your IG! You got the brackets for these calipers from Massive?

        What did you have to machine, stock rotor hat thickness? Or is this with Corrado rotors?

        So these calipers have multiple 35mm piston size, with 4 of these that's a significant upgrade from the single 48mm front / 33mm rear.
        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Jean View Post
          So these calipers have multiple 35mm piston size, with 4 of these that's a significant upgrade from the single 48mm front / 33mm rear.
          it's about twice the surface area which should be ~ 2x the clamping force
          cars beep boop

          Comment


            #20
            Contacting Massive...
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment


              #21
              You can actually now buy already machined rotors from garagistic

              They are found under the rx7 brake upgrade section.

              280mm rotor starts with the vw corrado and is bored out 1mm to fit the e30 hub.

              Comment


                #22
                Rather not put anything vw/corrado on the car :). Lee has been very helpful over emails, doing some final checking and buying a brake fluid pressure gauge to verify if my wilwood pedalbox and the Garagistic and Wilwood recommended 5/8 masters are working as they should as the current performance is very weak borderline dangerous.
                Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                Comment


                  #23
                  While I'm not running your set up I wonder if this could be an issue of you not being accustomed to a non boosted brake set up? We've built a lemons car and removed the booster. The pedal ratio has changed (can't remember to what ATM). MC/Calipers are stock and we're using race pads.

                  One driver hates the set up and says the brakes suck. Second driver wasn't thrilled with brakes at first but has become more accustomed to them and thinks they work fine. I was initially surprised by the force needed to get the brakes to work as I wanted. But have no problem outbraking others and can lock the brakes at 100mph. I love the brakes.
                  Same car. Same brakes. 3 different opinions.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I thought so too, until I went out and spent about an hour with local national SCCA champion and checked out his winning corvette.

                    He's got a manual setup as well, Tilton pedals and masters. 1" rear and smaller front, and massive calipers. This way his balance bar is almost in center / even position while retaining Front bias..but he tunes it for each circuit using the remote balance bar adjuster.

                    So, we ran my numbers (pedal ratio, the masters I am using that Garagistic/Wilwood recommended, the front/rear e30 caliper piston and rotor sizes, car's weight and pad ratings etc..) and we came up with my car needing 2x the pedal effort that his corvette to get -1.2g of braking force.

                    Basically he can lock up his brakes with about 40-50lbs of pedal effort, and this is on HUGE racing slicks on all four. He then drove my car and also confirm my feeling that the current braking performance is complete crap, it's really borderline unsafe so it's got nothing to do with me unfortunately. I am all for having some effort and feel, but I want the car to stop NOW vs. having to give it extra 20-30ft and not being able to lock the brakes no matter how hard I try. The corvette driver also tried to lock them up and couldn't so it's not me, and having done this test (I know the two cars and setups aren't the same but at least I now have some point of reference in terms of what a good working manual brake setup SHOULD feel like) we've confirmed using calculations (he's used the same .xls formulas that was used to setup his car and friends Cobra kit car with great results) that the recommended Masters (5/8") are not even closed to what I should be running using the STOCK e30 calipers. So, to double confirm this, I want to measure the brake pedal hydraulic pressure at each caliper to better understand and co-relate what's happening.

                    So, my next plan of attack is to get a brake pressure gauge to confirm if the current pedal box/masters are doing what they are actually supposed to do pressure wise. Once this is confirmed, I'll either have to replace the master(s) or whatever the fuck is wrong with this stupid pedal box... Or hopefully there is nothing wrong there and I'll then tackle it from the caliper/rotor/pad area instead.
                    Last edited by Jean; 04-28-2018, 06:03 PM.
                    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X