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Old 06-25-2019, 02:36 PM   #76
kronus
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nice! you've been busy.

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Originally Posted by -J- View Post
I opted for grey because it makes cracks a bit easier to spot, and we all know how much BMWs love to crack subframes.
e30s actually aren't known for this..
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:37 PM   #77
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BTW, recommend to use a diff stud kit. it makes reinstallation a lot less annoying.
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Old 06-26-2019, 08:35 AM   #78
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e30s actually aren't known for this..
I know that rear subframe cracking is more of an E46 thing, but E30s crack their fronts, right? I was more or less ripping on BMW in general, haha. I also want to keep a close on my welded spots in case they decide to go.

I really considered the diff stud kit, but got hung up on the stock vs. subframe riser debate. I may go risers but wanted to check clearances for the DTM alignment kit first. For the time being I'll lower the subframe for diff removal, but once I decide I'm going with studs for sure.
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:44 AM   #79
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nice work upgrading all the hardware and tearing into the rear end.

one trick for the diff studs is to just use longer bolts for the front mounting hole. and run the bolts from the bottom. this at least helps get 2 out of the 4 mounting bolts lined up.
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Old 06-26-2019, 12:14 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -J- View Post
I know that rear subframe cracking is more of an E46 thing, but E30s crack their fronts, right?
e30s break the motor mount ears off the front subframe, and can break/mangle both front and rear sway bar mount tabs with uprated sways, but that's about it in terms of cracking.
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:09 AM   #81
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Bummer about the rust, but I'm sure you'll handle it with ease.

Excellent work!
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Old 06-27-2019, 11:02 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwantspeed
nice work upgrading all the hardware and tearing into the rear end.

one trick for the diff studs is to just use longer bolts for the front mounting hole. and run the bolts from the bottom. this at least helps get 2 out of the 4 mounting bolts lined up.
Thanks! I'll keep this in mind if I need to drop the diff again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kronus
e30s break the motor mount ears off the front subframe, and can break/mangle both front and rear sway bar mount tabs with uprated sways, but that's about it in terms of cracking.
Good to know. I plan on reinforcing the front when it's out for the swap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MR E30 325i
Bummer about the rust, but I'm sure you'll handle it with ease.

Excellent work!
Thanks! Beer and swearing usually helps ease the pain of rust removal, haha.


As a small update, I've spend the last few nights bending the stainless hard lines. They shouldn't rust which is why I chose them, but one thing I didn't anticipate: stainless lines are much stiffer than standard steel lines and don't appreciate being bent. My finger tips are currently numb from manhandling the lines into shape...


Stainless lines hurt to bend by hand, but damn is it worth it


The main line going to the rear. This line SUCKED to make, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out

Upon removing the rear main line I also discovered that it had been repaired at some point. It was cut just ahead of the fuel filter and was replaced with copper tubing. It wasn't leaking, but I'm still slapping myself for taking this car on track without doing a full brake system inspection. Thankfully the brakes shouldn't be an issue with this car for a very long time after this.
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