That gear grinding problem is most likely the syncros, as mine are doing the same to the point where 4th gear is un-shiftable...lol
its usually 2nd and 4th gear that crap out
its usually 2nd and 4th gear that crap out
-
-
this is the truth. time for a tranny rebuild or replacement. otherwise nice car man. i think the chrome kidneys looked better, but to each their own. get an iS lip and lower that thing, itll look nice.Originally posted by bukaki_bob View Post
Comment
-
Clean car. I'll likely see you round since your in my neck of the woods.Comment
-
Yeah, I kinda miss them chrome a bit too, it was starting to flake and for whatever reason there was a decent little ding on the one that I filled when I painted it. When you're far away it just looks like something is missing, but when your up close and can actually see the kidneys it looks good. I think I may paint it satin white eventually or something.
I picked up a spare 260 several months ago for cheap (and was made fun of for buying parts for cars I dont own haha) and was told it was in good working order. If the fluid doesn't help I'll just drive it as long as I can. 4th gear is fine right now.
Where in pa are you located?Originally posted by Galactodactyl View PostComment
-
Brake time yay!
Under the front driver fender there are some holes for the water to drain out of. I felt some stuff in there so I took some of the wheel well plastic out. Lo and behold a bunch of junk and a nice little rust hole from continuously being wet. Now I know why the drivers floor was wet. Should be interesting when I pull the carpet back. On a slightly unrelated note when I was doing the heatercore in my Jetta I dropped a bolt down into the fender and did the same thing, and dug two handfuls of dirt/sand out from behind the plastic.
Not that much pad left...
Old vs new...
New Hawk HPS pads installed..
Reset that piston..
Carrier bolts cleaned of old threadlocker..
Shit greased up and ready to go...
Noticed that all of the carrier pins had 3 small flat areas. Are these worn and need to be replaced?
One of the carrier boots ripped and was greaseless. It was rusted tight into the carrier. It took a fair amount of effort to turn the rotor. Hopefully I'll pick up an mpg or two now that this is fixed(ish).
Pisses me off that my rotors were backordered. Doesn't really matter since I would have had to tear stuff apart to install the new boot. I'll paint the calipers silver when I do the rotors. I'm not sure what im going to do with that carrier bolt, I noticed it had some trouble sliding in and out of the carrier. I didn't give it a proper clean job before i put it back in for whatever reason. I messed up the little lip the boot attaches to also, but I think it'll be ok. I'm concerned that the hole it slides into has considerable rust. When I do the boots and rotors I'll clean the bolt proper. If it still has issues maybe I'll take it to a local machine shop and have them ream it quick back to spec.Comment
-
-
That's about as close as it gets. My dad lives over in Mohnton and that's where I do most of my work.Comment
-
Parts yay!
Not included in these photos was the Redline oils that went into my diff and trans. Somehow my trans was overfilled, I pulled the fill plug out and oil gushed all over my hands. Car was level of course. Diff was fine however.
Rotors on finally.
Picked up a thin 32mm wrench and spotted this outta towner in Wernersville. This guy on r3v?
And so it begins....
Random hole in part of my harness? Or is that supposed to be there?
Broke the drain plug. Ended up getting coolant everywhere since I couldnt drain it.
Getting there
Off
New belt and pump on. Time started running out and I stopped taking pictures...
Comment
-
Looks good! Definitely doing the right stuff. Where did you get the rotors?
Comment
-
The clunking in the rear may also be the upper shock mounts. Pretty easy/fast to check, just gotta move the carpet out the way.
Comment
-
lookin great dude keep it up! cant wait to see it finished. thats my favorite color of e30's.sigpicComment
-
Rotors, pads, and brake fluid came from Tirerack. Redline oil and 1 rad hose(the 1 blunt was out of stock of) came from germanautoparts, and the rest came from blunt.Comment
-
so much potential..Comment
-
excellent workComment
-
Left to meet up with some friends to work out. Leave the house, think its kinda warm out, never drove with the pop outs popped out yet. Get driver side, lean over real hard to get pass side, whew done. Pull away, 5 seconds later the car is dead. Cranks and cranks but wont start. My dreams of having a relatively reliable e30 are running down the drain, especially after I told my parents they are fairly reliable. For whatever reason I believe it is fuel. I turn the key and listen for the fp, don't hear it. Pull seat and check fuel pump. No voltage (yes I keep a multimeter in my car haha). Assume bad relay. Walk home and get the spare car and go to autozone to a inline fuse wire. Jumper the relay connection, no voltage, double check the jumper contacts, no voltage. Assume main relay is good since I hear the idle valve clicking. Have voltage at the relay connection. Still no voltage at the fp. Start going crazy realizing there might be a wiring fault somewhere. Call up my buddy who's a mechanic at a local BMW dealership, talk to him about it, doesn't really help. Run a jumper cable from the battery to the inline fuse then touch fuse wire to pump, pump turns on, I try and start the car and it runs! Now wtf is with this wiring. I sit a little. Then realize WAIT A MINUTE, DID I HIT THAT DAMN MYSTERY TOGGLE SWITCH THATS UNDER THE DASH? Flick switch, fuel pump turns on. Crisis averted.Comment
Comment