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    Lubrication System Options

    Since we're trying to consolidate info and cover these swaps with a higher level of detail, we need to cover the oiling system and offer up options and solutions. Since some will want to keep everything stock and concede to the space constraints with a modified upper radiator hose, this thread won't be of much use to them. Others will want a different solution and here is a way to gain space around the upper radiator outlet and allow for not only a remote filter setup, but the addition of a cooler, which some may want to add. My solution and it's one of several, was to follow Bruce's lead and utilize the E53, X5 oil line plate and modify it to allow the use of 10AN fittings and lines for the fluid travel. I mounted a cooler out in front of the radiator and a dual filter remote assembly, hanging from the right frame rail, in the space formerly occupied by the AC compressor. I have some pictures of the modified plate, the cooler and the remote filter setup to get some ideas out there and more can be added and discussed at will...

    Modified plate P/N 11 42 1 435 096



    I milled down the plate flat and then TIG'ed the 10AN bungs on it. It bolts to the block the same way as the original and uses the same O-rings.

    Oil cooler... this is subjective as to how big or small you want to run. This piece is only temporary, as I have a larger Setrab filter on it's way to me, but the mounting and position is the same.



    And the filter setup, which I chose a dual, spin on filter remote assembly, from Mr Gasket. This setup uses 2 filters, for more capacity and has dual inlet and outlets in a 1/2NPT thread arrangement, making adding an electric oil pressure sending unit a snap, for a real oil pressure gauge.





    I'll add some picture of the lines and fittings, when they arrive, this week, which will make the abstract easier to visualize. It's not a cheap way out, but it makes for a better oiling system by virtue of the cooler and added capacity of the dual filters.

    Feel free to add ideas and/or pictures of other options...

    Garey



    #2
    I like that setup.

    From what I understand, there are issues with the oil pump shaft shearing around the sprocket; VAC makes an upgrade. Would this be considered mandatory much like taking car of the oil pump nut in the S/M5X motors?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Corey@Track.One View Post
      I like that setup.

      From what I understand, there are issues with the oil pump shaft shearing around the sprocket; VAC makes an upgrade. Would this be considered mandatory much like taking car of the oil pump nut in the S/M5X motors?
      I know this was brought up in another thread, but I have not heard of this before that thread. I have seen issues in the early M6x motors with the oil pump nuts/bolts backing out, but that was taken care of in the late motors. I don't know if any of us are reaching power levels where that shearing thing becomes an issue, but I can tell you that I drop the lower pan and check my pump/chain in my E34 540i/6 every year, just for peace of mind. It has 285K on the clock, so I'd say these motors will go a long way, if you take care of them...:D

      Garey


      Comment


        #4
        Only one question; what about the PS pump rear support? :)

        You could also retain the original engine mounting arm (with the PS pump support point) and tap the oil outlets there, right?
        - E34 M5 (x 2) -
        - E30 V8 Cabrio "Kylpyamme" -
        - Alpina D10 Touring #33/94 -

        +
        - E46 318i Touring -
        - Toyota Hiace 4wd -

        Comment


          #5
          Is that rear mount really that big of a concern? Is that concern based on anything other then speculation? Have their been any reported failures due to not using that mount?

          My X5 uses that flange plate and doesn't have the rear power steering mount... it hasn't fallen off and killed innocent children.

          If people have experienced failures then I'll be glad to come up with a rear mount. But in the mean time I'll assume I'll be fine, just as the people who track their cars regularly with this setup are.
          85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
          e30 restoration and V8 swap
          24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

          Comment


            #6
            Good info, that I am sure will come handy.

            Can you elaborate the duel filter setup hardware itself, what are the options, where did you order it from etc?

            Thanks.


            P.S. regarding the oil pump shaft, I don't think it's so much the issue of high hp, but possibly more hormonic vibrations due to not using a 40lb factory dual mass flywheel assembly?
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Jean View Post
              Good info, that I am sure will come handy.

              Can you elaborate the duel filter setup hardware itself, what are the options, where did you order it from etc?

              Thanks.

              Jean, I'm sure Garey will be able to chime in with some good info... but just a few of the things that I've come across while looking:

              -You can get them anywhere. Summit, Jegs, etc...
              -You can get them in various I/O port sizes, I think you'll probably want 1/2"
              -You can get single or dual, as well as horizontal exit ports and vertical exit ports
              -Some come with extra tapped holes for pressure/temp sending units.
              -Price range is anywhere form $20 to a cheap single filter unit, to $40-$50 to a nicer dual filter unit like Garey's, up to $200 or so for crazy billet race parts.


              Originally posted by Jean View Post
              P.S. regarding the oil pump shaft, I don't think it's so much the issue of high hp, but possibly more hormonic vibrations due to not using a 40lb factory dual mass flywheel assembly?
              I'm not sure what kind of hormones you have, but if they are causing vibrations, you should see a doctor :D
              85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
              e30 restoration and V8 swap
              24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by JGood View Post
                Is that rear mount really that big of a concern? Is that concern based on anything other then speculation? Have their been any reported failures due to not using that mount?

                My X5 uses that flange plate and doesn't have the rear power steering mount... it hasn't fallen off and killed innocent children.
                Innocent children... :D


                No, I haven't heard of any failures because around here everyone has used the original support arm as it gives the pump sufficient support and enables aligning it properly.

                I just don't understand why to waste money on something that doesn't give you any benefits and instead makes your package "worse".. Anyway, do however you like, I think my point is clear enough now :)
                - E34 M5 (x 2) -
                - E30 V8 Cabrio "Kylpyamme" -
                - Alpina D10 Touring #33/94 -

                +
                - E46 318i Touring -
                - Toyota Hiace 4wd -

                Comment


                  #9
                  To answer your question, the reason it's not wasting money is because my engine didn't come with one, so I'd need to buy either a big bulky mount to cut down, or just the little X5 plate and bolt it right on.
                  85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                  e30 restoration and V8 swap
                  24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well, to show specifics on why using the X5 plate is better, not worse, in my particular setup, here are a few pictures. The packaging is far better with this arrangement, since I now have a bigger radiator and no issue with the upper hose/factory filter location, an oil cooler, which the V8's don't have, a twin, spin-on filter arrangement, mounted in a very favorable location and all braided lines for fluid transfer. The X5 plate, with the welded on bungs is at the heart of the setup and because of that, necessary for my installation. No other arrangement would work as well...









                    The oil cooler in the pictures is only temporary, as the larger Setrab will be in around the first of the week. All of this bickering about the X5 plate being worse or unnecessary I think is a silly argument, since my way of building this car is far different from Jonsku's way and Justin's way and Frank and Jean's way too. Each of us have different ideas and solutions. They're all acceptable, functional and personal, which makes each one "right"...

                    enough said...

                    Garey


                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yes, all those nice things can be done because the OIL FILTER HOUSING has been relocated.

                      One could lengthen the original oil hoses as well..


                      Originally posted by bmwmech1 View Post
                      The X5 plate, with the welded on bungs is at the heart of the setup and because of that, necessary for my installation. No other arrangement would work as well...
                      How about welding the bungs / tapping the outlets of the original engine arm / oil in-outlet?
                      The exactly same hoses go through the X5 plate as the original engine arm in the first place, that's the reason for me not understanding why to use the X5 part.
                      - E34 M5 (x 2) -
                      - E30 V8 Cabrio "Kylpyamme" -
                      - Alpina D10 Touring #33/94 -

                      +
                      - E46 318i Touring -
                      - Toyota Hiace 4wd -

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Jonsku View Post
                        Yes, all those nice things can be done because the OIL FILTER HOUSING has been relocated.

                        One could lengthen the original oil hoses as well..




                        How about welding the bungs / tapping the outlets of the original engine arm / oil in-outlet?
                        The exactly same hoses go through the X5 plate as the original engine arm in the first place, that's the reason for me not understanding why to use the X5 part.
                        The very thing that you want to keep is why the X5 plate is the better option... it doesn't have all the extra casting on it, which makes machining it easier. Not that the original plate couldn't be machined down, but the X5 plate is cheap and mostly flat already, so milling down the plate is faster/simpler. I tried to weld on the bungs to the non-milled plate and it was a struggle to get a good weld bead around the backside. Milling the plate made running a bead around the bung a breeze. That's really the reason for the X5 choice...

                        Garey


                        Comment


                          #13
                          so, to completely derail the direction of this conversation....

                          are you going to cut louvers into the plate in front of your radiator so the fan doesn't block the airflow once the car is moving?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by weaksauce View Post
                            so, to completely derail the direction of this conversation....

                            are you going to cut louvers into the plate in front of your radiator so the fan doesn't block the airflow once the car is moving?
                            No, the plate is being discarded. My original thinking in making that shroud, was that it would be super efficient... my thinking after my original thinking was that it would be super efficient, but only to about 40mph, lol. So, the fan will be mounted on brackets, in front of the radiator, just like every other pusher setup. I could go overboard, leave the shroud and add flaps to it, but meh... I'll just do it the tried-and-true method and be done with it. I've already over-engineered a lot of other stuff... no need to try to reinvent the wheel....

                            Garey

                            Minor derailment avoided, lol...


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