Bottom's up M20B27 e2i Build

[cek]

I might be copying you.

Not sure why you'd want to do that. This project is insane.

[digger]

Why custom Pistons but short rods ? 135mm has much more options

[cek]

Why custom Pistons but short rods ? 135mm has much more options

Because I got the rods (basically) free, THEN screwed up the block requiring going 40-over.

[cek]

Before I put the original Eta exhaust on (temporarily) I wanted to ensure I fully understand the OBX headers. I may still go with them. Pics:



This is how they fit with the motor in the car.







Does this look right? It doesn't to me. Why are the outlets pointed in such different directions? I find it quite odd that the rear header (on the right) is pointing right (directionally) while the front is pointing correct (not right or left). Is there a logical reasons for this, or are just seeing poorly designed/built headers? I have very limited experience with headers so what do I know? The Bav Auto M30 headers on Vlad are long-tube headers and thus are totally different?

I don't think it will be particularly challenging to fabricate via mandrel pipe around this weirdness, but it just seems weird.

The bolt on the idler arm ALMOST touches the headers. It's entirely likely that the motor moving around will impact steering. So if I DO go with the headers I'll have do to something about this.



Progress.

- Driveshaft hooked up
- Heat shield in place
- Cooling system all hooked up
- Front suspension back together (sans anti-roll bar and cross-member which will go back on once the exhaust is in).
- Front hubs back together



Here's what's left:

- Install exhaust
- Fill with coolant (I don't have enough Blue coolant (barely) so need to head to the Stealer tomorrow)
- Put rear tires on and drop rear end so I can tighten crank nut (I have a huge note on the dashboard so I don't make the same mistake I made with Vlad on this one).
- Install fan
- Do static break-in

I got on the phone with the machinist/engine builder and got refreshed on his advised procedure:

- Immediately run it at 2200 rpm for 10 minutes
- Let it cool down (15-20 minutes)
- Another 2200 rpm run for 10 minutes
- Dump the break-in oil and put normal stuff in
- Get on the road and drive hard, avoiding idle as much as possible. Lots of < 5000rpm pulls. Hills are good. For the first 100 miles.

Question: What is the recommendation w.r.t. the ARP head bolts. When (at all?) should I pull the valve cover and re-torque?

[cek]

First Start Win!

https://youtu.be/lqRKKVjvVqQ

Runs awesome. Did an extended shake down drive this evening after changing out the break-in oil. Pulls nice and hard, definitely more peppy than the old motor. Ooth and quiet. Of course I'm limiting to < 5000 rpm and I don't have a > 5000 rpm tach in the car yet. I was going to adjust the valves when I changed the oil but the valve train is silent. No leaks.

No idle issues. Perfect. I'm kinda blown away.


New suspension is so much better. The Billies with Spax are a great combo.

And the M5 steering box is TIGHT. LOVE.

On the down side, the clutch engagement point isn't noticably different after going to the shorter TO bearing. AND this transmission has developed the death rumble... Far worse than Vlad. I wonder if I screwed something up in the install. Could it be the TO bearing moving around?

And I broke my hood release handle. Dammit.

[cek]

I can't even.

How does a water pump/alternator belt end up like this? Did it get caught by the other belts and sucked through them? This is the first time I've ever had a belt fail in anger on me (lucky, inexperienced, you choose).

Fortunately it happened right near home and I got home before it overheated.

The pully on the alternator looked a little wobbly. It was from a donor motor. I *knew* I should have just sprung for a rebuilt alternator, and stopped when I saw it wasn't straight, but I was trying to be somewhat frugal. That'll teach me.



Here's what that Escher belt looks like. You can see how it was damaged winding its way under the other two belts.



I needed lunch and the Porsche needed some exercise as it's been sitting for a few weeks. So I drove to O'Riellys just to see if they had a reman'd 90A alternator. Sure enough they did. Only $83+core. I have three so giving up a core was no biggie. I pulled a straight pulley off one of the spares and installed the new/refubed unit.

No wobbly and I dare say a bit less belt noise. Went for a spirited test drive (with all tools required to fix the belt if it came off again) and no issues.