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    #61
    Got the ground straps and dme. Will get them on tomorrow and see what happens


    1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
    1991 318i 4dr slick top


    Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
    Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
    Mtech 2 turbo restoration
    Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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      #62
      really weird issue

      Ground straps and dme didnt fix it. Car seems to run better with afm unplugged but still has lights on. You guys sure its not my crank sensor. It seems to be missing a tooth pretty often on the scope. I will retake the video with less glare so you can see a better picture. Maybe run it tonight


      1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
      1991 318i 4dr slick top


      Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
      Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
      Mtech 2 turbo restoration
      Brilliantrot slick top "build"

      Comment


        #63
        There will be one "gap" per revolution since the missing teeth are required to determine TDC. Or do you mean that there is some other "blip" in the reading that I am not seeing? At this point, I guess that the sensor could be on its way out since it is one of the only things that could have been damaged when you had the covers off, the other thing being the toothed damper wheel itself.

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          #64
          Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post
          There will be one "gap" per revolution since the missing teeth are required to determine TDC. Or do you mean that there is some other "blip" in the reading that I am not seeing? At this point, I guess that the sensor could be on its way out since it is one of the only things that could have been damaged when you had the covers off, the other thing being the toothed damper wheel itself.


          Seems like it one per revolution. So then its probably fine. I ordered the gaskets ti rip the covers off hopefully me pulling covers. Resetting the timing to TDC and reassembling will fix the issue. Im over working on this thing.


          1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
          1991 318i 4dr slick top


          Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
          Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
          Mtech 2 turbo restoration
          Brilliantrot slick top "build"

          Comment


            #65
            Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
            I cant save data logs with this scope just save screen shots.
            Originally posted by squidmaster View Post
            If you bought the scope you linked to on the last page then it can export to a datalog file. That would be much better than a video or screenshots
            you need to know if there is more than one missing wave per revolution. If it's one per rev, you're fine. It's going to be nearly impossible to tell without a log. The delay between displaying what's going on doesn't match perfectly. At idle you're looking at 12.5 revolutions per second. That's too quick for most people's eyes. And then you're recording it at, what, 24fps? Just not clear enough to really tell.

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              #66
              the grounds didn't change the weird dash light problem? It still has the error caused by pulling the e-brake?

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                #67
                Originally posted by squidmaster View Post
                the grounds didn't change the weird dash light problem? It still has the error caused by pulling the e-brake?

                Grounds did not change one thing. E brake still has an affect on the lights and it still runs like crap.

                Originally posted by squidmaster View Post
                you need to know if there is more than one missing wave per revolution. If it's one per rev, you're fine. It's going to be nearly impossible to tell without a log. The delay between displaying what's going on doesn't match perfectly. At idle you're looking at 12.5 revolutions per second. That's too quick for most people's eyes. And then you're recording it at, what, 24fps? Just not clear enough to really tell.


                Yea i bought the AES wave uscope. Not sure how to save it though will have to look into it.


                1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                1991 318i 4dr slick top


                Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                Comment


                  #68
                  I found my issue.



                  Cam timing appears to be off by just a hair. No my question is. Can i adjust the cam timing with out ripping the chain and everything off? Could i just loosen up the chain. Enough to rotate the cams to correct positions and then lock it back down? I have a new top cover gasket and could cut my 1 piece gasket to make it a 1 piece and then use a good amount of rtv to seal it up.


                  1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                  1991 318i 4dr slick top


                  Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                  Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                  Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                  Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                  Comment


                    #69
                    Better pic of cam lobes



                    1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                    1991 318i 4dr slick top


                    Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                    Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                    Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                    Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                    Comment


                      #70
                      So that is where they sit with the crank at TDC? I would say that they are off by more than just a hair!

                      When you took the covers off to address the leak, did you loosen or remove the chain? If it had been timed perfectly before, I am not sure how it could have gotten so far off. When you look at the 4 bolts holding each cam to the sprocket, are they centered in their slots or dragged all the way to one end?

                      You can make the adjustment without cutting gaskets or anything. It looks like you might be off by more than a tooth, so the slots in the sprockets alone might not provide enough room for correction. This can be done without removing the upper timing cover, although it is a pain. Basically you need to remove the tensioner piston and top plastic guide so that you can disengage the teeth from the chain and rotate things. Just be VERY careful and gentle...if the chain drops off of the crank sprocket and is caught between it and the bottom guide, bad stuff happens when you turn the engine. So make sure (as best you can) that the chain is engaged in the crank before rotating it later on.

                      Cam alignment can be done without a special tool using a straight-edge and a pair of crescent wrenches. The wrenches grip the square ends of the cams by cylinder #4, and when you get the tops to be perfectly parallel (verifying with straight edge) you can zip-tie the wrenches together in that position while you reattach cam sprockets.

                      Once you think you have it all aligned and the tensioner piston is back in, rotate the crank slowly with a 22mm wrench/socket on the damper bolt. This is MUCH easier if you pull the 4 spark plugs so you do not fight the compression. Also, ONLY rotate the engine clockwise (normal running direction) since going the other way runs the risk of jamming the chain down at the bottom guide. After a couple of rotations, check the cam/crank alignment and make additional adjustments as necessary.

                      The hard part is getting the chain onto the proper tooth on the cam sprockets (when the timing covers are on). Once you get that, minor adjustments are fairly simple with the M42's slotted sprockets.

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                        #71
                        Yes that is where the cams sit with crank at tdc mark. How ever i decided to drop a screw driver down cyl hole and crank engine. And it get to its highest point well past the mark on the pil filter housing and the cams go to proper alignment so the timing in general was off. Ripping it all apart now. Idk how the hell it happened


                        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                        1991 318i 4dr slick top


                        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Hmm, ok so the damper wheel is out of alignment. The good news is that there's like zero risk of mechanical damage to the internals at least! Since it runs, it seems like you did not melt a piston or valve, either.

                          IIRC, the woodruff key that aligns the crank sprocket and damper wheel hub to the crank can get pushed back and not fully engage the damper hub. So basically the ECU is going to be very wrong about where TDC is, so your ignition will be way off. If that is where the cams are with the damper mark at TDC, and the cams+crank are actually in alignment, then the ignition timing will be very, very retarded. Firing that late, you probably get a lot of combustion in the header and downpipe which could explain the red-hot pipes. Since there is intake/exhaust overlap, it might also have sooted-up the intake a little. Did it sound like it was backfiring mildly at all?

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                            #73
                            Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post
                            IIRC, the woodruff key that aligns the crank sprocket and damper wheel hub to the crank can get pushed back and not fully engage the damper hub.


                            Right there that was the issue. Woodruff key got destroyed some how. Allowing it to rotate



                            1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                            1991 318i 4dr slick top


                            Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                            Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                            Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                            Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                            Comment


                              #74
                              really weird issue

                              Got the key out. New one and crank bolt are on order. Managed to not damage the sprocket or crank either



                              1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                              1991 318i 4dr slick top


                              Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                              Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                              Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                              Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Well, that's a first for me in 17 years of M42 shenanigans. Does it look like the key got mashed between the damper hub and sprocket, or did it just completely shear? In operation it is not supposed to see any load since the 240 ft-lb torque on the 22mm bolt clamps the hub to the crank snout. Very odd.

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