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Bloody hell man, that's plain friggin' awesome! Sounds great rapping out the V8, cool to watch you keep the Mustang behind you, too!
Okay, now the technical question... I see you're using an aftermarket tach, what did you do for a tach signal? Did the OE tach signal work for your tach? I have not gotten my tach to work yet, although, I must admit I have not done any troubleshooting either, lol! I'm using a VDO Vision series tach and I assumed the factory signal would give me a good source, but no... Just thought I'd ask and maybe save some troubleshooting minutes, if you used another source...
-FREEDOM-is cruisin at 80, windows down and listening to the perfect song-thinking"this is it" -The Beauty in the Tragedy- MECHANIC SMASH!!- (you all know you do it) Got Drop?? ;-)
Originally posted by JinormusJ
But of course
E30s are know to be notoriously really really really ridiculously good looking
Jean asked, so I'll share a *few* things:
1) Wheels are 949 racing 15 x 9 6UL wheels. If you want a low race car with reasonable LCA angles and fender clearance, 15" is the sweet spot. Tires are Hoosier R6 275/35/15 at all four corners.
2) We also designed custom wheel spacers to accommodate the wheel offset, extended fenders (Group A replica in front; even wider in rear), and desired lateral placement of the wheel.
3) Dampers - Moton motorsport strut assemblies in the front, Moton club-sport in the rear.
4) Rear trailing arms have a tubular brace (a la Z3)
5) Rear suspension adjustment is via eccentric bolts and slotted subframe pickup-points.
6) Front suspension adjustment is the usual fare of GC camber plates, spherical lollipop insert, and Al (e30 M3) lower control arms.
7) Brakes are Massive/Wilwood (300mm x 32mm), with Wilwood pedal assembly for Brake/Clutch
8 ) Aero - custom front splitter and Crawford Composites Grand Am Rolex GT spec rear wing.
9) Weight - with full fuel (16gal) and 210lb driver, car weighs 2553lbs, with a 55% front weight bias. The car is about 2245lbs dry.
15 x 10 was not available in a one-piece wheel at the time we did all of the work.
Having said that, we could upgrade to a 15 x 10 in the rear, but it would require us building a new rear wheel spacer, which exceeds the cost of a wheel (by about $75).
The front is a different story - moving the 9" wheel far enough outboard to clear the front strut introduces quite a bit of steering scrub radius. So, when you turn, the front wheels are moving forward and aft in the wheel-well quite a bit. We just clear the leading and trailing edges of the fender as it is. Going 1" wider might cause interference. Since we are considering 10's in the rear, I'll also take a look at the front.
-Bruce
Funny you bring up the diff. I was just about to edit my post - the 3.23 *is* the current diff ratio, but was selected when we had an S52US engine in the car. We are in the process of obtaining a 2.93.
At 6K rpm, top-speed with a 3.23 and a 23" tall tire is 29, 50, and 78MPH respectively.
With a 2.93, those numbers become 32, 55, and 86 MPH.
Thanks! I was hoping a 3.25 or 2.93 would get really close or over 60 in second (to cover most autocross runs). 3.23/25 deff won't work for me looks like so I need to see what else is out there.
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