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Anyone heard from Tyler?

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    Anyone heard from Tyler?

    Hey guys,

    I know the guy is swamped, but my parts should have been done about 6 weeks ago and I haven't heard from the guy in about 2 months. I've tried facebook and email. Anybody heard from him recently?

    #2
    Word on the street is that he has stopped production.
    1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
    5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

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      #3
      I got my swap subframe and oil pan from him in the spring. At the time he was super busy with his day job/business so it took a few months for him to get my parts completed and back to me. I think he was doing like 15 at once. If you have sent him your parts I don't think you need to worry about getting ripped of or anything, just understand that it will probably take a while. Tyler is legit, but swap components are not his primary job. My order was delayed quite a bit but the parts are worth the wait IMO.

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        #4
        I know all the details about how he's doing it all himself on the side and that he's taking a little hiatus for the summer to change his program to a core exchange, rather than what it is currently. It's just the fact that on Jul 20 he told me he was about 2 weeks out from completion and it's now been two months and he hasn't replied to any of my correspondence. I'm not concerned that he's ripping me off as much as he's just not checking his emails since he's not taking new business this summer.

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          #5
          Tyler said my exhaust was completed and ready to ship May 17th 2018. Since then he has blocked my number and I have heard nothing. I don’t think I’ll be getting my headers back so if anyone knows of headers that will fit so I can take my car to a local fabricator that would be great.

          It’s BS that he didn’t execute existing orders before disappearing. His website looks great now, but what’s a pretty website without a product??

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            #6
            This is a real bummer to hear. My subframe and pan took a long time (3 months or so), but that is getting excessive.

            I used megan racing headers with my swap. You will need delrin offset FCABs to use them but they clear, as should most other aftermarket catless headers (probably not SSV1 or ARH). Euro headers would be my top pick for easy fitment.

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              #7
              Originally posted by R3VM3UP View Post
              This is a real bummer to hear. My subframe and pan took a long time (3 months or so), but that is getting excessive.

              I used megan racing headers with my swap. You will need delrin offset FCABs to use them but they clear, as should most other aftermarket catless headers (probably not SSV1 or ARH). Euro headers would be my top pick for easy fitment.
              Euro headers do not fit. SSV1 look like they will fit and that what I am upgrading to when I get my car back from paint.
              e30sport.net
              '15 Porsche GT3 - 7-speed PDK - Daily Driver
              '86 325es - s54b32tu - 6-speed - Mtech 1
              '89 325is - m20b25 - 5-speed - Individual

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                #8
                Euro headers is what Tyler was starting with. They "fit" but need some help in the collector/secondary area for clearance, just like any other 24v swap.
                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                  #9
                  I haven't gotten to fabricating anything post-headers yet, but I can tell you that the Megan Racing headers that I used definitely clear the subframe and don't touch anything. They are quite close to the FCAB housing though.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by R3VM3UP View Post
                    This is a real bummer to hear. My subframe and pan took a long time (3 months or so), but that is getting excessive.

                    I used megan racing headers with my swap. You will need delrin offset FCABs to use them but they clear, as should most other aftermarket catless headers (probably not SSV1 or ARH). Euro headers would be my top pick for easy fitment.
                    Same for my subframe and pan as well, but at least we got the important bits from him.

                    Are you running 4 O2 sensors and the EGT with the headers?

                    Thanks for the info! I’ve been looking at headers all day. The status gruppe ones look legit and I know they fit just not sure about the FCAB clearance. But I’m assuming that’s something that can be modified when the car goes to the fabrication shop for the rest of the exhaust.
                    I don’t hear good things about status gruppe lead times, however.

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                      #11
                      I am not using all 4 o2 sensors. No real need for the rear ones since there are no cats, they are purely for emissions and you can code them out if you preder. I'm just running the 2 front sensors in the front locations on the Megan headers. EGT sensor fits just fine with the Megan headers.

                      Some people do have issues with the fitment of the Megan flanges where they mate to the head. I had to have a buddy help me force on the rear section over the manifold studs. Would have been nearly impossible in the vehicle IMO. Quality looks great otherwise and it sounds like they may have these issues sorted out by now.

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                        #12
                        Gotcha, I think I was reading about how there was a run of Megan headers where cyl 5 and 6 were off. Thanks again.

                        Were you able to fit the engine with the headers installed or did you install once the engine was in the bay?

                        My main concern is clearing the OEM FCAB mounts incase I ever need to replace them I know there will be OEM options vs. the treehouse racing stuff.

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                          #13
                          Yes, you can easily drop the engine and trans in from the top with the headers already installed on the engine. However, with the Arc Asylum subframe you will not be able to get the engine fully in position if you have the subframe already bolted up because the rear sump is a tight fit and interferes near the steering column if the engine is tilted on an angle because of the trans. I would suggest having the subframe disconnected, dropping the engine in from the top, and then bolt up the subframe from the bottom, that's what I ended up doing.

                          If you want to use OE style FCAB mounts then you will need to cut up any header that you choose. I used the Garagistic Delrin ones, and I think there are a couple other brands that make them.

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                            #14
                            Awesome, this crosses off some questions on my list. I appreciate the info!

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                              #15
                              Glad to help. I got my S54 running a couple weeks back in my 318is and I still have a number of things to finish up to get it roadworthy. I'll try to put together a build thread to document as much as possible once it's complete.

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