Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

M42 turbo fact thread

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    All the major bolts lined up. I had to drill two holes in my sump for the smaller bolts but that was no big deal. And i built a trans mount that looks exactly like the one the guy sells for 24v swaps. not sure if his will work but it looks close.

    that little piece im holding in the first picture did all the damage if you can believe that.. it looked like it bounced around inside there until it balled up and got stuck in the pp.

    My clutch setup is a jb m42 flywheel with the spacer behind it and the rest is all 325i stuff. Maybe i should get a 323i tob?

    Comment


      #32
      Yeah same deal for me. Because I have rotated the engine I used the standard gearbox cross member :)

      Looks like a bearing cage.

      Have you still got a G240? measure the relative depths of each and determine whether there is a difference. That should answer your question.
      - Chris
      Project M42 - 255 @ 19 psi

      Comment


        #33
        Is your g260 in a place that you can get a measurement? I just dont want to tear mine out again unless i absolutely have to. ill grab a 240 and get some measurements.

        Comment


          #34
          Yeah I can do that, I'll take a look after lunch
          - Chris
          Project M42 - 255 @ 19 psi

          Comment


            #35
            G260 out of an '85 323i

            - Chris
            Project M42 - 255 @ 19 psi

            Comment


              #36
              going from top to bottom on your drawing. i measured in inches and am converting to mm

              g260-g240

              160-162
              161.5-174.6
              157-149
              26-31.75
              80-82.5
              126.5-130

              Comment


                #37
                When you say the clutch isn't fully engaging are you saying the clutch seems to be slipping?

                There is basically a difference of 10mm between the bellhousing depths and all the clutch arrangement, which would suggest that putting the spacer behind the flywheel will make the problem worse.

                However the centre spigot position is changing from 25.6mm to 4.5mm. This will just change the position of the clutch on the input shaft and as long as the spigot doesn't bottom out on the spigot bearing should be fine.

                Are you also running the 323i TOB? Maybe a standard one would assist if you are.
                - Chris
                Project M42 - 255 @ 19 psi

                Comment


                  #38
                  I cant see why it would be hurting the trans and not the clutch... Woulndt the clutch be the first thing to go out?

                  Ill get a video of the noise you can hear in the cabin tomorrow.

                  TOB is a 325 as far as i know. 318 FW, 325 TOB, PP and clutch disk. Ive tried getting ahold of vac to see what they think and to see my order history(nothing shows up when i log on their site) but I never get replies from them.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    I use the 328/M3 ZF transmission, its much stronger and has smoother shifting aswell. It requires a few mods but nothing too difficult. I use 325 FW, clutch although with a stronger pressure plate and a standard TOB.

                    I welded two spacers onto the clutch fork, about 8-10 mm I think (can't remember exactly) to get proper engagement, but I think a 323 TOB would work without welding as it is a little bit longer.

                    Standard E30 transmission crossmember and linkage works without mods (the lower linkage might need a little bend to clear the guibo) but the driveshaft needs to be from a M3E30 (what I use) or from a 328 E36. Only problem there is the spline engagement in the middle of it which is only about 20 mm with this setup. Lengthening the driveshaft would be ideal but I haven't and mine still hasn't broke. A guibo from a M5E34 helps some as it is 5 mm thicker than guibos from M3E30/328/M3E36. If you use the E36 driveshaft you'll need to change the middle bearing to one from an E30.

                    Oh, and you'll need to change the pilot bearing in the crank as the input axle is a little bit thicker on the ZF.

                    Edit: You'll need the clutch cylinder from a ZF vehicle aswell.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Thank you strypt. Looks like I might be tearing her down completely..

                      So just to make sure i dont screw this up, e36 328/m3 zf transmission. Is there a model name for it? like g240, g260, etc. That with an m20 flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. 323i TOB.

                      Is the 328 e36 driveshaft longer and does it bolt up to our differential?

                      EDIT: did some research and found that the 318 TOB and 325 TOB are both 1-15/16". trying to find an m20 flywheel to test on it.
                      Last edited by MF DOOM; 06-04-2013, 04:22 PM.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Found this.

                        Originally posted by JGood View Post
                        Found this article tonight, and thought some of you might find it useful. It's probably been posted before, but I've asked questions that have gone unanswered, that this article answers. So here it is:

                        (updated and functioning URL)




                        E30 Getrag 260 interchange and information

                        Submitted by Dale Beuning on Fri, 2006-12-15 08:29. Firstly, all 'i' motors use a crank position sensor on the front of the crank, all 'eta' motors (super-eta may be an exception) use the 2 reference sensors mounted in the trans bellhousing.
                        Also, don't try pulling the transmission apart. Most of the shops in this area won't even try to dig into one because you can pick one up at a salvage yard anytime for $300 or $400.
                        There are a couple of issues using an '86 325e manual transmission in an '89 325i car.
                        Identify which trans you have early 'eta', late 'eta', or 'i':
                        a) early 'eta' trans (1983, 1984, 1985 manufacture dates?)
                        i) 260.0.1270.90 is on the side of the 'eta' trans
                        ii) shifter mounting about the output flange is only 2xM10 holes for the 84,85,86 style plate mount shifter
                        iii) deep bellhousing : Slave cylinder mounting flange = 6 7/8
                        iv) 2 drilled holes for crank position sensors
                        v) smaller output flange
                        b) late 'eta' trans (1986, 1987, 1988 manufacture dates?)
                        i) 260.0.1270.90 is on the side of the 'eta' trans
                        ii) shifter mounting about the output flange has 2xM10 holes for the 84,85,86 style plate mount shifter, AND top boss for the aluminum bracket of the 87-91 style shifting mechanism.
                        iii) shallow bellhousing : Slave cylinder mounting flange = 6 1/2
                        iv) cast boss for 2 drilled holes for crank position sensors, may or may not be drilled
                        v) larger output flange
                        c) 'i' trans
                        i) 260.0.1346.90 is on the side of the 'i' trans
                        ii) top boss for the aluminum bracket of the 87-91 style shifting mechanism.
                        iii) shallow bellhousing : Slave cylinder mounting flange = 6 1/2
                        iv) no cast boss in bellhousing for reference sensors
                        v) smaller output flange

                        If you find your 'eta' 260 trans has the deeper bellhousing, you can correct for it by using a thicker throw-out bearing.
                        Sachs P/N 21511204525 is a 30mm bearing and will make up the difference.
                        If you use the driveshaft/guibo that came with the transmission you'll be fine,
                        the differential end of the driveshaft is the same on all the 6cyl E30s.
                        There is an early style Guibo(110mm)[26-11-1-225-624] and a late style Guibo(96mm)[26-11-7-511-454], cutover date is 5/86 for end of 110mm, 6/86 is start of 96mm.
                        6cyl manual driveshaft length 1483mm.
                        All 3 versions have the same gear ratios:
                        1 3.83
                        2 2.2
                        3 1.4
                        4 1
                        5 0.81
                        Note: If you'd like to use an older version of the 260 with the early style
                        mounting boss instead of the newer style ears, the E30 M3 came with an adapter
                        to mount the new style shift carrier to the older style mounting boss.
                        View it at RealOEM.com




                        Some pictures of a 'late eta' getrag 260: some images
                        See the date stamp in the bellhousing in this pic, and also the slave cylinder mounting point to measure bellhousing depth:

                        This clearly shows both early and late shift lever mounting styles, this has the later style shifter support installed:

                        Top view of shifter support mount

                        This shows the part number and sensor mounting points on the bellhousing:

                        _________________

                        UnofficialBMW.com Webmaster
                        dale@unofficialbmw.com

                        Both of my trans are 260.0.1346.90 so the shallow bell housing.

                        I remembered that my broken trans was still in the scrap bin. the bell housing depth on it is 190.5mm and the g240 is 174.6.

                        From this thread I think i should swap to an m20 fw

                        Comment


                          #42
                          just bought an m20 flywheel. waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles it.. Dont ask me what i was thinking when i put an m20 clutch on an m42 fw... now i can quit cluttering up this thread.

                          waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Lots of good info in here, I'm curious as to how you got the M20 clutch on the M42 flywheel though :p

                            That is a big difference in the bell housing depths though. I am essentially running all 325i stuff from the block back so hope it will work out ok (325i tailshaft is ~100mm shorter and my engine is moved back accordingly).
                            - Chris
                            Project M42 - 255 @ 19 psi

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Well when they made my FW i had to send my oem on in to them, which they kept, because they said they "lost the drawing for the m42 flywheel." I think they drilled out the FW to fit the m20 clutch and when i pull it off ill have nothing but an expensive paper weight... When i talked to the guy at VAC he pretty much said that if they make it it'll work and I took his word for it.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                How does one like the gt3071r with the m42?

                                1991 325iS turbo

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X